As New York handed over the relay, London launched into its Fashion Week with a day of bold Autumn/Winter collections. From the MA shows presented by London College of Fashion and Central Saint Martin’s, to the incredible urban-couture seen at Fyodor Golan, the collections of the first day proved to be an enticing kick-off.
First port-of-call for Schön! was Felder Felder. The twins Daniela and Annette behind the brand brought another refined collection to the runway, playing with a range of textures, prints and cuts which hinted at Gerhard Richter paintings. With a careful balance of cut-outs and sheer inserts, Felder Felder introduced a slight rebellious edge to their pieces, which contrasted nicely with the more playful juxtaposition of faux-furs, mohair and organza.
The works of Barbara Kolasinski, Xiaomeng Yang, Daniel Yuste, Youjia Jin, and Min Kim, seen at the London College of Fashion MA show, deconstructed, rebuilt and toyed with concepts of conventional dress. From Xiaomeng Yang’s asymmetrically-reconfigured coloured suits, to Daniel Yuste’s neoprene urban beetle sweaters, the pieces were as creative and as inventive as ever, adding a degree of imaginative freedom to the day’s schedule.
Majestic silhouettes were seen at the Jean-Pierre Braganza show, with strong draped pieces. The collection paid tribute to Artemisia Gentileschi, incorporating motifs of the Renaissance artist into the printed satin tops. At Bora Aksu, a whimsical depiction of the 1950s seemed to flow throughout the collection, with cinched waists, pencil skirts and high collars seen on the runway. Stylistically, this translated as an accumulation of textures and textiles, with wools, corduroys and silks, which were beautifully patch-worked with beaded panels and leather inserts.
Next on the schedule was Fyodor Golan, whose location was carpeted in pink from the floor to the ceiling. An incredible array of patent, metallic and glossy pieces were seen. Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman were inspired by a recent journey through Myanmar and Cambodia for this collection, which translated into a bold palette of brilliant pinks, purples and flamboyant oranges. The urban silhouette, signature to the house, was seen reinterpreted in a variety of textiles.
Knitwear was confronted with sport and loungewear in Mark Fast’s A/W 2014 collection, with an explosive colour palette of neons: electric oranges, pinks and blues were layered and interwoven. A decidedly urban sports undercurrent added a new note to Fast’s work, bringing yet more scope to his world of knit.
From an S/S 2013 expedition which lead into the heart of a sandstorm, Christopher Raeburn seemed to have headed North with his A/W 2014 collection, with silhouettes which echoed nautical-wear. Rigid cotton parkers were layered over wide trousers, and jacquard and quilted cloths conversed with leather and fur inserts. Raeburn explored new textural horizons, combining textures and colours into a delectable game of layering.
Todd Lynn closed the first day of Fashion Week for Schön! Striking profiles were seen, with tailored overcoats and fitted leather pieces creating architectural silhouettes. Pleated skirts peeped out from below overcoats cinched at the waist, and trousers merged into tailored jackets, deconstructing conventional suited looks. With a palette focusing almost exclusively on black, the pieces brilliantly played with the interaction between light and texture, further enriching the already complex collection.
Words / Patrick Clark
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