Bora Aksu / Photography Christopher Dadey
Second in line in the fashion month, London launched its fashion week with the usual flurry of activity. From the delicate tailored looks at Eudon Choi, to florals in all manner of textures and colours at House of Holland and Holly Fulton, the Spring/Summer 2015 collections promised to be opulent.
Bora Aksu introduced a dreamy edge to the London Fashion Week proceedings, with delicate signature crochet pieces which, layered with tulle, were wonderfully light. With thematic parallels with the life of ballerina Marie Taglioni, silhouettes were both nostalgic and wonderfully lyrical.
Equally lightweight tailoring was present at the Eudon Choi show, and seemed to build up the leitmotif of the collection, with crisp cotton creating voluminous looks. With two piece floral suits and camel trenches, Eudon Choi reworked his usual deconstructionist approach, with a twist on classic pieces, which introduced a whimsical touch to his aesthetic.
Fyodor Golan
Taking inspiration from Lucio Fontana and Robert Morris, the design duo behind Fyodor Golan presented a particularly bright collection, with explosive striped looks seen throughout the collection. Prominent slashes, as well as signature use of reflective materials, introduced a deconstructed depth to the pieces.
Holly Fulton
The 1960s seemed to have been the main inspiration for Holly Fulton’s collection, with embroidered and embellished pieces displaying floral motifs. Balancing intricate hand-crafted details and complex prints with voluminous shapes, Fulton expanded upon the retro aesthetic she has introduced over past seasons.
House of Holland
Moving on from the ‘60s, Henry Holland’s collection was a tribute to both the psychedelia and flower power of the 1970s, with bold, graphic florals seen throughout. Deconstructed prints, in the form of floral and paisley appliqués, brought volume and texture to the House of Holland pieces.
Designer Marjan Pejoski developed the Greek vase theme introduced in the Kokon to Zai menswear collection in June, with relief prints seen on body-suits, fitted dresses and matching trousers/crop tops looks. Feather-light veils of nylon, as well as mesh overcoats, were set against the materiality of these prints. The rigidity of the fabrics introduced a tailored aspect which brought KTZ from the realms of the street to eveningwear.
Light and texture were explored at TOGA, with sheer chiffons and gauzes playing with the reflectivity of mirror accessories. Drawing inspiration from the abstract works of Serge Poliakoff, the collection was delicate, colourful and particularly dense with textural interplay.
The collection presented by David Koma saw signature angular pieces collide with sports-worthy attire, in a brilliant palette reminiscent of Mondrian with its primary shades of blue, red and yellow. Embroidered pieces added a play on light, making the Koma collection a particularly opulent one.
Words / Patrick Clark & Huma Humayun
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