The wanderer found a sense of belonging within the cavernous halls of the Hôtel de Ville, shielded by the watchful eye of Yohji Yamamoto. His Autumn/Winter 2026 collection leaned into this nomadic spirit, blending a feeling of protection with the deliberate slouchiness of his signature silhouettes.
The construction of the pieces felt like a journey in itself, defined by an extreme approach to layering that transformed the models into walking sculptures. The designer moved away from anything resembling a standard fit, instead piling garment upon garment to create a sense of safety and depth.
Yamamoto reimagined the modern kimono in a way that managed to be both reverent and rebellious. Each look began with a stark foundation of signature black, providing a dark canvas for the vibrant prints of Katsushika Hokusai to emerge with sudden intensity. The nineteenth-century ukiyo-e icon was famous for his obsession with the natural world, and his energetic woodblock style brought a surreal, storybook quality to the heavy silk. These motifs, featuring everything from artistic flamingos to psychedelic stripes, were integrated into the silhouettes through meticulously constructed robes that appeared to defy conventional tailoring.
Knotted fabrics gathered at the side of the body to create a rich physicality, while layered jacquard textures and subtle plaids added a spirited quality to the way the cloth moved. Models wore layers upon layers of knitwear, heavy coats and scarves that obscured the body yet flowed beautifully. You could see flashes of contrasting textiles emerging from beneath the heavy wools and silks. Austere knits were paired with skintight leggings and wooden geta footwear, a choice rarely seen beyond ceremonial settings.
The models’ hair provided a startling, ethereal contrast to the heavy textiles. Every head was crowned with a wild, frizzy cloud of hair, electrified and dusted with white powder to look like frozen smoke or gathering storm clouds. It looked as though the models had just stepped out of a powerful gale, their spirits as unruly as the fabric wrapped around them.
As the show progressed, the focus remained on the tension between the dark, heavy materials and the moments of exposed skin or lighter draped jersey. The way a silk sash trailed behind a heavy woollen coat or the manner in which a flared trouser leg caught the light spoke of a designer who still finds new ways to challenge our perception of beauty.
Discover the Autumn/Winter 2026 collection here.
photography. courtesy of Monica Feudi
words. Gennaro Costanzo
