winding down | a mandria di murtoli, corsica

‘Slow living’ has become an overused buzzword in travel, casually tagged to anything from linen-clad interiors to beige minimalism masquerading as an ‘off-grid’ experience, but at a hotel in Sartène, it’s the natural way of things.

Set within the wild and unspoiled Ortolo Valley in southern Corsica, A Mandria di Murtoli isn’t easy to find but drive down a sandy track and through an inconspicuous wrought-iron gate and you’ll discover something that seems less like a hotel than a restored pastoral hamlet. A scattering of former landlord’s mansions, shepherds’ cottages and stables – some dating back to the 17th century – have been transformed into idyllic suites full of rustic charm. The structures may be old, but the hotel itself is new – having opened in June last year – and still very much a hidden gem. It’s the latest addition to the celebrated Domaine de Murtoli, a sprawling private estate set across 2,500 hectares of wild valleys, mountains and pristine beaches.

Time appears to dissolve here; everything is unhurried and check in isn’t a fanfare event. Rather, you’re given a key that looks like something from a fairytale, led down a stone pathway and then left to enjoy your new home for the next few days. The rest of A Mandria’s winding pathways, meanwhile, connect to a large brick-lined pool, a bar and a restaurant, all cradled within stunning, sweeping views of the Orotlo Valley.

Accommodation is within weathered stone houses that are spread out and hidden amongst fragrant maquis, wild herbs and centuries-old olive and citrus trees. But don’t mistake old for shabby; whether you’re staying in a restored sheepfold, stable or converted barn, each home showcases the beauty of Corsican craftsmanship. Original stone walls, vaulted ceilings and exposed wooden beams have been lovingly preserved and meticulously restored. Painted terracotta tiles and exposed brickwork provide pops of colour and add rustic charm, but luxury isn’t lacking either. Suites come with a plunge pool and private gardens, but the biggest indulgence of all is the serenity that comes with a property with only ten rooms and suites.

There’s a deep connection to the land that’s reflected everywhere, but to understand A Mandria di Murtoli, you have to understand the Domaine de Murtoli actually is. The estate, which feels like its own little world, is owned by native Corsican Paul Canarelli. He inherited the land from his grandfather in 1993 and began restoring the traditional dwellings but also adding discreet comforts like pools, landscaped gardens, and even a golf course.

Alongside the restoration came the important work of reviving centuries-old agro-pastoral traditions. The estate is almost entirely self-sufficient, producing its own cheese, beef, lamb, eggs, honey, olive oil, vegetables, herbs and more. The farm, located next to A Mandria, supplies much of what lands on the plate at the hotel’s restaurant L’Appuntamento, which marries traditional Italian cuisine with Corsican ingredients grown just a few steps away. Standout plates include literally any of the homemade pasta dishes, but also the roasted seasonal vegetables, eggplant parmigiana and, of course, a classic tiramisu.

At A Mandria, it’s all about enjoying the simple pleasures of life and relaxing by the pool is actively encouraged, but if you’re a little restless, guests have access to the entire Domaine de Murtoli estate, including all of its restaurants (if you pick just one, make it La Table de la Grotte, which is set inside a candlelit natural cave), a Kyle Phillips-designed golf course and a spa. The private sandy beach, Plage d’Erbaju, is lined with driftwood-constructed cabanas overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and has a fantastic restaurant (La Table de la Plage) serving some of the best and freshest seafood on the island.

In Corsica, nature is ever present. No matter which direction you go in, you’re surrounded by the sea, countryside and mountains. To make the most of it, the Domaine offers activities from hiking and horseback riding to stargazing or guided botanical walks.

Travelling by foot will only take you so far though. A car with sturdy tyres is essential in this part of Corsica, where the roads are uneven and made of red sand, but we trust that every minute of the journey will be worth it for the magical idyll that is Domaine de Murtoli.

Find out more about A Mandria di Murtoli here.

words. J. Bibi Cooper
edit. Huma Humayun
photography. Camille Moirenc