twenty years of copenhagen fashion week | aw26

The notoriously grumpy streets of Paris are receiving a sartorial love letter that is as rude as it is romantic, courtesy of Carne Bollente’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection. Titled ‘Give me a Break,’ this new range finds the independent Paris label further cementing its status as a leading voice for contemporary sexuality. A central pillar of the release is ‘Besos Hasta Agotar Stock,’ a visual study that examines the kiss as an act of resistance and support. This study captures a specific balance between closeness and confrontation that echoes through every garment.

The brand is leaning heavily into the idea of ‘Fuck Off à la Française,’ celebrating the stereotypical Parisian who is selfish, mean and entirely ego-tripped. Carne Bollente suggests that these qualities are part of what makes the city so irresistible, describing the collection as an unapologetic ode to an attitude where “niceness has never been our forte.” 

Amongst the new arrivals, a clever Marlboro-inspired shirt reworks the classic cigarette packaging into a statement on desire, while a series of gay slogans tees provide a bold platform for self-expression. It is Parisian chic dipped in decadence and served with a healthy dose of sarcasm, acting as a manual for anyone looking to embrace their inner provocateur. Since 2015, the house has focused on breaking taboos and making intimacy a standard part of the daily dialogue – especially amongst the queer community.

Photographer and movement director Tomas Pintos has steered the visual narrative, working alongside stylist Jaume Miro to capture a sense of raw energy. The campaign features a diverse cast of models, all inhabiting a world where sex-positivity and freedom are the only rules. 

These bold, unisex pieces celebrate desire and identity without compromise, staying true to the mission of empowering communities through fashion. The brand remains confident in its provocative style, holding fast to the vulgar and pretentious spirit that defines its identity. 

This latest offering is available now through the official e-shop and selected stockists for those ready to embrace the Parisian way of life. Discover the collection here.

photography. courtesy of Tomas Pintos
words. Gennaro Costanzo

Digital voyeurism has found a new, high-fashion home this week as Maison Margiela invites the public to have a thorough snoop through its internal servers. The launch of ‘MaisonMargiela/folders’ represents a bold move towards radical transparency, cracking open the brand’s private Dropbox to reveal the messy, beautiful reality of the creative process. 

Starting this week, anyone with a browser can explore working documents, project timelines and raw imagery that usually remain hidden behind the heavy white doors of the atelier. This digital breadcrumb trail serves as a prelude to a massive takeover in China this April, marking a turning point for the house as it balances its enigmatic heritage with a newfound desire for connection.

The journey reaches a physical peak on 1 April in Shanghai, where the Autumn/Winter 2026 collection will be presented live as a special guest of Shanghai Fashion Week. This show promises to be a significant moment, potentially echoing the theatrical intensity that has defined the brand’s most memorable outings. 

Fans often look back to the January 2024 Artisanal show held under the Pont Alexandre III in Paris, which is currently available to watch on various archival platforms. That particular event saw models moving like glass-skinned marionettes, showcasing a level of artisanal craftsmanship that felt both haunting and revolutionary. While John Galliano brought a sense of dark romanticism to the house, the upcoming exhibitions also pay homage to the foundational work of Martin Margiela himself.

Following the runway show, the brand will scatter its defining features across four Chinese cities, with each location dedicated to a specific code of the house. In Shanghai, from 2 to 6 April, the ‘Artisanal: Creative Laboratory’ will offer a rare look at the haute couture methods that have defined the brand since its 1989 debut. This exhibition invites visitors to see the evolution of the line, perhaps referencing the legendary Spring 1990 show held in a Parisian playground where local children ran amongst the models. That landmark event remains a touchstone for those interested in the brand’s history of democratic, community-focused fashion.

Beijing will host ‘Anonymity: Our History of Masks’ from 7 to 12 April, exploring the house’s long-standing refusal to play the celebrity game. By obscuring the faces of models, Margiela has historically ensured that the focus remains entirely on the construction and movement of the garments. This exhibition will likely feature everything from the simple muslin veils of the early nineties to the ornate, jewel-encrusted headpieces that have graced more recent runways.

The ‘Tabi: Collectors’ exhibition in Chengdu, running from 9 to 13 April, focuses on the split-toe silhouette that has become an unlikely icon of global street style. The folders might reveal early sketches of the 1988 debut pair, which famously left red-paint hoof prints on a white cotton runway. This shoe remains one of the most provocative designs in footwear history, and the exhibition will chart its journey from a niche avant-garde experiment to a wardrobe staple for the fashion-literate.

Finally, Shenzhen will explore the ‘Bianchetto’ code on 11 and 12 April, focusing on the white-paint technique that symbolises the passage of time. This atelier experience highlights the beauty found in cracking surfaces and peeling layers, a philosophy that Martin Margiela introduced to challenge the idea of pristine luxury. 

Registration for these physical experiences opens on 17 March, but the digital exploration is already underway. The public folders will continue to evolve, adding new files that document the transition from conceptual sketches to the polished reality of the exhibition floor.

Discover more here.

photography. courtesy of Maison Margiela
words. Gennaro Costanzo

Adventure found its way into the heart of Manhattan this season as Ralph Lauren unveiled his Autumn 2026 collection. Surrounded by a select group of guests in the Clock Tower building, the American label transformed the Jack Shainman Gallery into a dreamlike vision of the English countryside. Hand-painted pastoral canvases lined the walls and opulent Persian rugs covered the floor to create an atmosphere of rugged romance.

Gigi Hadid led the way on the runway, opening the display in a wool corseted top and a column maxi skirt accentuated by a silver chain belt. The designer noted that he loves the adventure of fashion and that this collection is inspired by the confidence of the woman who will wear it in her own personal way. “She respects the timeless quality of things from the past but reinvents them for now,” he explains in the show notes.

A long, languid silhouette dominated the proceedings, occasionally interrupted by shorter hemlines and demonstrative belts defining the waist. From the front row, Anne Hathaway, Lili Reinhart and Ariana DeBose watched from antique-style chairs as models strutted past in a deft fusion of tailoring and vintage flair. Lana Del Rey brought her own unique energy to the event alongside her husband, Jeremy Dufrene, as they took in a rich, earthy palette laced with metallic embroideries.

An artful deception appeared when what looked like nubby Donegal tweed was revealed to be a sensuous, body-contouring knitted cashmere. A metallic glimmer surfaced in various forms, including brooches pinned to lush wool cloaks and chainmail tops peeking out from underneath tweed jackets. A leopard-print shearling jacket made an impression with a structured back bubble created by a hidden crinoline layer, while one reversible short jacket flipped from shearling pile to a crackled metallic foil over a cashmere sweater.

Handcraft was a primary focus, with multiple rounds of glass-bead fringing and painted leather-strip appliqué used to realise delicate, artful tops. Over fifty custom materials were featured, including velvets, jacquards and arresting scarf prints. A particular thistle-hued silk velvet dress featured hand-smocking and bugle beads, though its femininity was challenged by a rather oversized herringbone jacket. Shimmering details also appeared in the form of micro-sequinned columns, over-printed in flocked velvet to create a moody effect. An open-back velvet gown required double dyeing in brown and dark blue to achieve its mesmerising luminescence.

Accessorising remained bold, with riding boots and embroidered velvet slippers grounding the looks. The newly introduced mini crossbody Ralph bag added depth to the styling, while the new Deco Lock clutch featured a chain handle that rested on the hand exactly like a bracelet. Every design celebrates a woman who is fearless in her pursuit of adventure while staying true to herself.

Discover the collection here.

photography. courtesy of Getty Images for Ralph Lauren 
words. Gennaro Costanzo