
Tom Ford.
Is it really summer if you’re not flashing a bit of skin? Tom Ford’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection is all about ditching modesty for a more revealing wardrobe. Haider Ackermann’s latest outing for the house arrived in Paris with skin everywhere — peeking through cut-outs, visible beneath transparent layers, framed by extra short shorts and exposed in a series of barely-there swimsuits. The clothes were unapologetically sensual, but the appeal came as much from what was beautifully constructed as what was left uncovered.
“Seduction is the pillar on which this house is built. This time I felt like pushing it further, closer to danger,” writes Ackermann. “There is something deeply sexual in a body that reveals itself without offering itself. I am not interested in provocation. I am interested in the risk of being free.”
The show was staged among walls of mirrors, doubling each look as it passed and turning the runway into a sequence of reflections, appearances and second glances. Models were sent out in pairs and groups, adding to the cinematic quality of the presentation and reinforcing Ackermann’s idea of a moment suspended between what has happened and what might happen next.

Tom Ford.

Tom Ford.
There was an impressive study in tailoring throughout the collection, something that should come as a given now at Tom Ford. Pinstripe trousers came with impeccably cut jackets, while slouchy leather two-pieces gave traditional suiting a heavier, more louche finish. Elsewhere, playful netted tops, liquid-looking bodysuits and metallic beaded minidresses brought an evening-minded sensibility, with garments frequently revealing almost as much as they concealed. Sheer fabric became a recurring device, appearing in low-waisted skirts, see-through bodysuits and transparent layers that left the body very much in the conversation.
Underwear was perhaps the biggest departure to be introduced. Black cut-out swimsuits, asymmetrical wraparound styles, thongs and men’s speedos were worn with tailored jackets and knitwear, shifting the swimsuit from something reserved for the pool towards a fully fledged part of the wardrobe.
The palette kept things surprisingly earthy beneath all that skin. Olive and moss greens, navy, black, tobacco and shades of blue formed the core, punctuated by lighter blue and, eventually, a run of saturated red and pure white. Those closing shades changed the temperature of the collection, with vivid red evening pieces bringing a touch of glamour before the final white looks made the ending way more endearing.

Tom Ford.

Tom Ford.
Accessories stayed suitably grown-up; structured crocodile-effect briefcases and wallets were carried alongside generous leather handbags, while coats and jackets remained considered. There was even a playful exchange between formal and informal dressing, with swimwear occasionally taking the place of a shirt and silk robes assuming the proportions of outerwear.
Discover the Spring/Summer 2027 collection here.
photography. courtesy of Tom Ford
words. Gennaro Costanzo































































































































