tod’s aw26 | italian signature

 

Matteo Tamburini is currently deep into his third season as Creative Director at Tod’s and he has spent his time doubling down on the brand’s Italian heritage. The Autumn/Winter 2026 collection, aptly called ‘Italian Signature,’ serves as a direct continuation of his Artisanal Intelligence project, a concept that places the physical act of making at the very front of the stage.

Leather shapes the entire story this season, showing a synthesis of tradition and a new kind of material depth. The wardrobe plays with proportions by using generous, enveloping volumes alongside more fitted items that feature defined waists and shortened sleeves. Traditional staples like the trench and peacoat have been reimagined with tailoring that feels closer to couture, while a quilted bomber in aged calfskin adds a tactile element to the mix. Foulard dresses stand out with graphic patchwork designs in a natural palette of ginger, chocolate and burnt caramel. Much of the collection’s refined feel comes from Pashmy, a light and silky calf leather that enhances the chromatic depth of skirts and trousers.

Bags remain a high expression of this excellence, focusing on three timeless shapes that have been updated for the current season. The Di Bag returns in a bowling version that finds a balance between formal refinement and practical use. Saddlery topstitching enriches the Wave Bag and the T Timeless Bag arrives in nappa or tactile pony hair – a highlight throughout the week. 

 

References from the 1990s could be spotted in the lineup, especially when it comes to lettering. Personalisation becomes an authentic expression of bespoke craft through the use of precious metal letters. These slim belts cinching trenches allow for custom initials as a direct callback to the antique monograms found on heirloom shirts.

Footwear follows a similar path of evolution, as the signature Tod’s loafer is presented with a new rounded toe in leather or animal-printed pony. Strong-character ankle boots feature straps that evoke the world of saddlery, while ultra-flexible suede defines the Gommino Sneaker. Even the metal hardware on the accessories collection echoes the signature Gommino code.

The show itself took place amongst a collective of masters who were actually working as the models walked past. Fourth-generation coral carvers Vincenzo and Manuel Aucella worked live alongside master embroidery artist Maria Teresa Bergamaschi and sculptural goldsmith Lorenzo Parisi Asaro. Every piece, from the interior decorations provided by Pictalab to the artisanal fans of the Camurati family, reinforces a commitment to the excellence of Made in Italy.

Discover the Autumn/Winter 2026 collection here.

photography. courtesy of Tod’s
words. Gennaro Costanzo