the rebirth of pollini | an afternoon at ladbroke hall

Athens – a city where late-night souvlaki meets ancient marble – has always understood drama. It makes sense that one of its most subtly radical chefs would have a painter’s perspective. Alexandros Tsiotinis, who was born in 1986 in the Greek capital, grew up surrounded by movement, noise and food. Athens is layered, contentious, sun-bleached and sea-salted; it is not a minimalist city. For Tsiotinis, food was more than just food; it was a language that would eventually take him far from home before bringing him back with better tools.

He started by attending Ferrandi Paris – the prestigious culinary school that has produced generations of French chefs – in 2007, and here he honed his intuition, learning a philosophy of precision from masters like Alain Passard and Hélène Darroze, including respect for produce, technical mastery and the notion that simplicity is frequently the most intricate gesture of all. What came next was more of a pilgrimage than a career ladder. Tsiotinis developed an obsession with flawless sourcing and a near-spiritual pursuit of detail while working in some of Europe’s most exacting kitchens. Before returning to France to work as a chef for Éric Frechon at Le Bristol Paris, he worked at the Michelin-starred Spondi, which has long been regarded as one of Greece’s most elegant dining establishments.

Tsiotinis was drawn back home by Greece, first to Perivoli in Santorini and then to Crete, where he was hired as the Executive Chef of the Elounda Peninsula Hotel at the age of 25. He received his first ‘Golden Chef’s Toque’ here and has continued to receive it every year since. However, Tsiotinis has always felt that evolution comes before awards. He collaborated with Pascal Barbot during another pivotal trip back to France, further refining a style that would eventually become more fluid rather than purely Greek or French. That hybrid language required its own stage by 2015. Here comes Tsiotinis’ creation, CTC, which is the best expression of his culinary philosophy.

Greek food is not ‘reinterpreted’ by CTC in the conventional sense. Rather, it reconstructs it using an international perspective and French technique. A tightly edited journey where familiarity dissolves into surprise, the restaurant’s name has come to represent an 11-course blind tasting menu.

Tsiotinis frequently likens his food to paintings. The process of plating transforms each plate from a blank canvas into a work of art. Movement, colour and negative space are all taken into account. Food that feels both architectural and emotional is the end result. Inviting guests to fully trust the kitchen, harmonious yet bold combinations emerge with a spirit of generosity. The chef’s vision and the unity of his team were validated when CTC received its first Michelin star in 2021. Since then, the kitchen has developed into a global hub that welcomes and develops chefs from all over the world, reaffirming Tsiotinis’ conviction in acceptance, communication and an international culinary future.

Seasonality is still crucial. The restaurant collaborates closely with regional vendors, enabling the rhythm of the menu to be influenced by daily availability. Because of this responsiveness, no two visits are the same; the experience is dynamic and depends on the crop, climate and catch. The cuisine is anchored by Greek heritage, but it gains structure and vitality from French technique and Mediterranean influences. This idea is reflected in the dining room. Recently moved, CTC’s new location strikes a balance between style and tranquility, a green garden softening the urban haven. It is an environment that slows down time and invites visitors to give themselves over to the story that is being told across courses. Wine pairings tell this story in liquid form and are chosen with the same care as the plates.

Beyond the pass, Tsiotinis continues to be involved in partnerships, charitable endeavors and menu consultations, establishing himself as a member of the larger culinary community in addition to being a restaurateur. His attention is increasingly focused on sustainable and responsible dining practices, which makes sense for a chef who is so committed to the integrity of ingredients.

CTC feels like the modern equivalent of Athens, a city that thrives on the tension between antiquity and reinvention. Memory meets imagination; tradition meets technique. According to Tsiotinis, Greek food is not preserved in amber but rather advanced, plated with the Aegean’s heart and Paris’s discipline. And that same promise – a blank canvas, waiting – appears on every empty dish before the first component is added.

Read more about CTC Urban Gatronomy here.
words. Patrick Clark
images. Courtesy of CTC Urban Gastronomy

left. Andrés Arocena
right. Scallops

Often, Michelin-starred restaurants come with a few assumptions: high prices, small portions and a hushed, formal atmosphere. Yet La Micheline – the only Spanish restaurant in Geneva that’s been awarded the honour – feels refreshingly different: the 54-seat space is brimming with warmth, with a relaxed atmosphere and a menu built around bold, unexpected flavour pairings.

Steered by Head Chef Andrés Arocena, the restaurant is now approaching its sixth year, having first opened its doors in the summer of 2020. Arocena excels at creating a menu that pairs contrasting flavours from all corners of the globe, taking inspiration from the Spanish Basque Country where he grew up, alongside the many other countries and kitchens he’s worked in. “Everything could be an inspiration,” he explains as we sit on the upper level of La Micheline. “I feel free when I’m creating.”

Seabass and mussels

From stuffed chipirones (baby squid) paired with black pudding, to langoustine croquettes crowned with blue caviar, the menu is endlessly inspiring, leaving you curious about the ideas behind each dish. After all, squid and black pudding isn’t the most conventional pairing, but Arocena states, smiling, “I like to break the rules a little bit.”

Arocena’s love for food began in childhood, surrounded by a family of home cooks and excellent ingredients. “I was always curious,” he remembers. “I saw my father and my grandmother cooking, and they were a big inspiration for me.” This curiosity soon grew into a career in kitchens, one that started in several three-Michelin-starred restaurants across San Sebastián.

left. Le céleri de la racine à la feuille
right. Andrés Arocena

After working at the world-renowned restaurant Arzak, Arocena moved on to kitchens in Marseille, Taipei and London, picking up flavours that now appear in unexpected ways at La Micheline. Eventually, he opened Ametsa with Arzak, located inside The Halkin Hotel in Belgravia. “They told me they were opening in three weeks,” he muses. “So, I left my apartment, my girlfriend, everything, and went to live in London for three years.” The restaurant earned a Michelin star just six months later.

Switzerland came into the picture after Arocena met his Genevan girlfriend in London, prompting him to apply for the role of Head Chef at Lausanne Palace, where he stayed for five years. “After that, I wanted to have my own; I wanted to be my own chef,” he says. And so, La Micheline was born.

La Micheline

The open-plan restaurant is understated and welcoming, spread across two floors with the main dining room following an L-shaped layout. The kitchen is tucked neatly into the far-left corner, visible through a glass window, where chefs quietly prep for service. A wall of lush greenery near the entrance frames a winding staircase to the upper floor, bringing a touch of the outdoors in.

There is a relaxed atmosphere, which is felt from the moment you enter. Filled with a mostly local, French-speaking crowd (always a green flag), the restaurant draws a host of regulars, one of whom visited six times just last week, Arocena tells us. But this is truly down to the team: friendly and knowledgeable, offering a premium – yet unstuffy – experience.

left. La Micheline
right. Txipirones

Still, it’s the food that draws people to La Micheline – and it doesn’t take long to see why. The St-Jacques scallops topped with a thin layer of beetroot and caviar is an absolute standout. Beautifully presented, it’s firmly anchored in the season, playfully working with textures through gentle pops of caviar. The menu’s ingredient experimentation shines particularly brightly in a two-course ode to the sea. What appears at first glance to be a mussel is in fact an edible shell filled with bouillabaisse: a rich saffron sauce inspired by Arocena’s time working in Marseille. Served on a coconut leaf and designed to be eaten like a taco, it arrives as an amuse-bouche before stone bass in a delicate white butter foam. Both are utterly delicious.

Aguachile à l’avocat, coriandre et citron vert

Stocking over 800 wines, La Micheline prides itself on offering the city’s widest selection of bottles from Spain, with around 400 represented. Throughout lunch, pairings from small, independent producers are brought to the table, a highlight being a vermouth (by Ferrer de Beniarrés, an artisan producer located in northern Valencia) which is smooth and gently bitter with a lift of orange. A 2023 white from Raúl Pérez, the world-renowned winemaker based in the Bierzo region of Spain, pairs faultlessly with the langoustine croquettes. A deliciously leathery red from Alto Moncayo Veratón is suitably served with expertly cooked Black Angus Swiss beef, finished under the grill and perfectly tender.

As with all good restaurants, La Micheline works closely with the seasons, exploring a breadth of ingredients that are evident on the regularly changing menu. Take sea buckthorn (acidic, nutrient-packed berries) for example, which Arocena worked with whilst in England. It’s an ingredient equally as common in Geneva, but available only for limited periods throughout the year. “When in season, it will last just one month, so I’ll do a dessert of the week, or scallops and sea buckthorn,” Arocena tells us. “I love when one season finishes,” he continues. “Every day is different; there’s no routine. It’s a great way to live as a chef.”

left. Le Cacao
right. Andrés Arocena

Despite the similarly sounding name tempting the restaurant’s inevitable fate – La Micheline was in fact aptly titled after the train that connects France and Switzerland, a further reference to the international influences that Arocena embraces. Going for a Michelin star was never the goal, he explains: “For me, the most important thing is to have regular customers; to have a team that is happy and proud to be here, working with me. When you have those, if Michelin comes or goes, it’s nice, but it’s never been my ambition.” And perhaps that is the key: if you truly love what you do, patrons and success will eventually follow.

Our advice? Book for lunch. Settle in for a long, lazy afternoon sampling dishes from the tasting menu with wine pairings. Expect daring dishes, supremely warm service and a strong selection of Spanish bottles, all in a welcoming atmosphere with prices that won’t break the bank. There isn’t any fussiness or grand décor, just brilliant food and a happy team. What more could you ask for?

Le Tropical

words. Miranda Bunnis
images. Courtesy of La Micheline

Every great restaurant has a sense of place, but some feel like a destination all their own. For Lily Rosenthal Royal and Chef Mason Royal, the creative duo behind Max & Helen’s, that destination happens to sit in the middle of Los Angeles, where lines wrap around the block. The counter has quietly become one of the city’s most coveted seats, so much so that celebrities like Selena Gomez choose to dine there after award shows. 

Since opening, the diner — inspired by the warmth and nostalgia of the classic American gathering place — has quickly evolved into something bigger than a restaurant. It’s a neighbourhood hub and a space intentionally designed for connection. As Creative Director, Lily shapes the voice, atmosphere, and unmistakable sense of joy guests feel when they walk through the door. Behind the scenes, Mason, the restaurant’s Director of Operations, brings years of experience opening restaurants to building the systems and team that keep the operation running smoothly, even as demand surges.

Together, the newlyweds have created a place where hospitality feels personal and where strangers often leave as friends, sometimes even something more. It’s a philosophy that extends beyond the menu, shaping everything from how guests are greeted to how solo diners are thoughtfully seated at the counter.

For Schön! alive’s passport series, where creatives reflect on the defining “stamps” that shape their journeys, Lily and Mason share the moments that led them here, from early pop-ups and first restaurant openings to building what they hope will become a lasting Los Angeles institution.

If Max & Helen’s had its own passport stamp, what would it look like — and what would it say about the spirit of the diner?


It’d be this little watercolour painting one of our guests made for us of the outside of our diner. It’s all about our neighbourhood.

Before Max & Helen’s, what were the early “stamps” in your careers that prepared you for this moment?

This is Mason’s 17th restaurant opening. It’s my first. But together we created Violet Moon. A dinner party pop-up we got to run for a little while. Mason cooked, and I set the table. It became our creative outlets.

How did stepping into day-to-day leadership at Max & Helen’s change your perspective on hospitality?

You get to truly learn the people you serve. All anybody wants is to feel understood. 



Lily, as Creative Director, how did you shape the voice and vibe of the diner from day one?

I wanted every single aspect of this restaurant to exude warmth. If it’s not cozy, it’s not what I’m looking for.

Mason, as Director of Operations, what were your priorities behind the scenes?



Building systems to support sustained success in a high-volume setting. I’ve said from day one that I wanted to build an LA institution. Achieving that requires systems tailored to this type of volume, and following those systems allows us to execute at the standard we expect of ourselves.

Secondly, and just as important, is building a team that shares the same commitment to excellence and buy-in when it comes to enforcing our standards. We set out to put together a group of people who saw the vision and had the skillset to support these systems. I’m unbelievably proud of this team and the work they’ve put in.

Max & Helen’s has become one of LA’s most electric gathering spots. When did you first realize this wasn’t just a restaurant opening — it was a cultural moment?


When people were willing to wait 8 hours for a waffle.

Hour-long lines, crowds around the block — how do you preserve warmth and intimacy at that scale?

Genuine kindness from our staff.



Your seating philosophy is intentional, especially placing solo diners in engaging counter spots. What inspired that approach, and what have you learned from watching connections form in real time?


Community! This is how you meet your neighbours! And most people enjoy human connection; we’re just lucky we get a front-row seat.

You’re often described as the restaurant’s “welcome committee.” What does a perfect greeting feel like to you?

Joy!!! 



The celebrity guest list is headline-making, yet everyone waits for their turn. How do you maintain that sense of equality and fairness in such a high-profile environment?


If we know someone and they’d like to come in, we try to save them a table when it’s our least busy time. Like 3 pm on a Tuesday? No problem.

Lily, being called “the keeper of the secret phone number,” suggests there’s both mystery and magic in how you operate. How do you balance access with intention?

It’s just our friends asking when they can come in, which is so nice. We just try to get them in on the off-hours.

Mason, how do you ground the operation during peak chaos — long lines, viral buzz, nonstop demand — while protecting the team’s morale?



It’s all about trust. Trusting each other to hold themselves and each other accountable. We trained for over a month before we ever opened our doors to the public. That time was essential in building and refining our systems, but also to learn about each other and the ways we can support one another. The long lines, viral buzz, and nonstop demand is out of our control.

We have 66 seats, and there’s only so many people we can serve. We do our best to stay focused on what is in our control. And that is making sure that every guest feels welcomed into our space, cared for by our team, and comforted by our food. It requires a ton of discipline by our team to stay focused and not waver from our standards despite the craze. I’m honoured to lead this team every day.

As newlyweds running one of LA’s most talked-about diners, how do you separate marriage from management — or do you?

It flows pretty nicely. When we need to discuss work, we do! But when we just want to hold hands and watch Summer House, we hold hands and watch Summer House.

Hosting your wedding send-off brunch at the diner blurred the line between personal and professional in the most beautiful way. What did that moment symbolize for you both?


The night before was showing our loved ones why we want to spend the rest of our lives together, and the following morning got to show them how we’ll do so.

Max & Helen’s has already been described as a ‘Power Diner.’ Beyond buzz and celebrity, what does a lasting legacy look like for you?

One day, our kids’ kids will spend their birthdays in our favourite booth. 



If you could stamp your passport with one future dream — expansion, a new concept, or a different city — where would you go next?

We want to make sure we give this one our all. Next is maybe a nap.

Learn more about Max & Helen’s at maxandhelens.com.

interview. Kelsey Barnes