
left. Andrés Arocena
right. Scallops
Often, Michelin-starred restaurants come with a few assumptions: high prices, small portions and a hushed, formal atmosphere. Yet La Micheline – the only Spanish restaurant in Geneva that’s been awarded the honour – feels refreshingly different: the 54-seat space is brimming with warmth, with a relaxed atmosphere and a menu built around bold, unexpected flavour pairings.
Steered by Head Chef Andrés Arocena, the restaurant is now approaching its sixth year, having first opened its doors in the summer of 2020. Arocena excels at creating a menu that pairs contrasting flavours from all corners of the globe, taking inspiration from the Spanish Basque Country where he grew up, alongside the many other countries and kitchens he’s worked in. “Everything could be an inspiration,” he explains as we sit on the upper level of La Micheline. “I feel free when I’m creating.”

Seabass and mussels
From stuffed chipirones (baby squid) paired with black pudding, to langoustine croquettes crowned with blue caviar, the menu is endlessly inspiring, leaving you curious about the ideas behind each dish. After all, squid and black pudding isn’t the most conventional pairing, but Arocena states, smiling, “I like to break the rules a little bit.”
Arocena’s love for food began in childhood, surrounded by a family of home cooks and excellent ingredients. “I was always curious,” he remembers. “I saw my father and my grandmother cooking, and they were a big inspiration for me.” This curiosity soon grew into a career in kitchens, one that started in several three-Michelin-starred restaurants across San Sebastián.

left. Le céleri de la racine à la feuille
right. Andrés Arocena
After working at the world-renowned restaurant Arzak, Arocena moved on to kitchens in Marseille, Taipei and London, picking up flavours that now appear in unexpected ways at La Micheline. Eventually, he opened Ametsa with Arzak, located inside The Halkin Hotel in Belgravia. “They told me they were opening in three weeks,” he muses. “So, I left my apartment, my girlfriend, everything, and went to live in London for three years.” The restaurant earned a Michelin star just six months later.
Switzerland came into the picture after Arocena met his Genevan girlfriend in London, prompting him to apply for the role of Head Chef at Lausanne Palace, where he stayed for five years. “After that, I wanted to have my own; I wanted to be my own chef,” he says. And so, La Micheline was born.

La Micheline
The open-plan restaurant is understated and welcoming, spread across two floors with the main dining room following an L-shaped layout. The kitchen is tucked neatly into the far-left corner, visible through a glass window, where chefs quietly prep for service. A wall of lush greenery near the entrance frames a winding staircase to the upper floor, bringing a touch of the outdoors in.
There is a relaxed atmosphere, which is felt from the moment you enter. Filled with a mostly local, French-speaking crowd (always a green flag), the restaurant draws a host of regulars, one of whom visited six times just last week, Arocena tells us. But this is truly down to the team: friendly and knowledgeable, offering a premium – yet unstuffy – experience.

left. La Micheline
right. Txipirones
Still, it’s the food that draws people to La Micheline – and it doesn’t take long to see why. The St-Jacques scallops topped with a thin layer of beetroot and caviar is an absolute standout. Beautifully presented, it’s firmly anchored in the season, playfully working with textures through gentle pops of caviar. The menu’s ingredient experimentation shines particularly brightly in a two-course ode to the sea. What appears at first glance to be a mussel is in fact an edible shell filled with bouillabaisse: a rich saffron sauce inspired by Arocena’s time working in Marseille. Served on a coconut leaf and designed to be eaten like a taco, it arrives as an amuse-bouche before stone bass in a delicate white butter foam. Both are utterly delicious.

Aguachile à l’avocat, coriandre et citron vert
Stocking over 800 wines, La Micheline prides itself on offering the city’s widest selection of bottles from Spain, with around 400 represented. Throughout lunch, pairings from small, independent producers are brought to the table, a highlight being a vermouth (by Ferrer de Beniarrés, an artisan producer located in northern Valencia) which is smooth and gently bitter with a lift of orange. A 2023 white from Raúl Pérez, the world-renowned winemaker based in the Bierzo region of Spain, pairs faultlessly with the langoustine croquettes. A deliciously leathery red from Alto Moncayo Veratón is suitably served with expertly cooked Black Angus Swiss beef, finished under the grill and perfectly tender.
As with all good restaurants, La Micheline works closely with the seasons, exploring a breadth of ingredients that are evident on the regularly changing menu. Take sea buckthorn (acidic, nutrient-packed berries) for example, which Arocena worked with whilst in England. It’s an ingredient equally as common in Geneva, but available only for limited periods throughout the year. “When in season, it will last just one month, so I’ll do a dessert of the week, or scallops and sea buckthorn,” Arocena tells us. “I love when one season finishes,” he continues. “Every day is different; there’s no routine. It’s a great way to live as a chef.”

left. Le Cacao
right. Andrés Arocena
Despite the similarly sounding name tempting the restaurant’s inevitable fate – La Micheline was in fact aptly titled after the train that connects France and Switzerland, a further reference to the international influences that Arocena embraces. Going for a Michelin star was never the goal, he explains: “For me, the most important thing is to have regular customers; to have a team that is happy and proud to be here, working with me. When you have those, if Michelin comes or goes, it’s nice, but it’s never been my ambition.” And perhaps that is the key: if you truly love what you do, patrons and success will eventually follow.
Our advice? Book for lunch. Settle in for a long, lazy afternoon sampling dishes from the tasting menu with wine pairings. Expect daring dishes, supremely warm service and a strong selection of Spanish bottles, all in a welcoming atmosphere with prices that won’t break the bank. There isn’t any fussiness or grand décor, just brilliant food and a happy team. What more could you ask for?

Le Tropical
words. Miranda Bunnis
images. Courtesy of La Micheline





