Schön! alive 3 | the menu

Athens – a city where late-night souvlaki meets ancient marble – has always understood drama. It makes sense that one of its most subtly radical chefs would have a painter’s perspective. Alexandros Tsiotinis, who was born in 1986 in the Greek capital, grew up surrounded by movement, noise and food. Athens is layered, contentious, sun-bleached and sea-salted; it is not a minimalist city. For Tsiotinis, food was more than just food; it was a language that would eventually take him far from home before bringing him back with better tools.

He started by attending Ferrandi Paris – the prestigious culinary school that has produced generations of French chefs – in 2007, and here he honed his intuition, learning a philosophy of precision from masters like Alain Passard and Hélène Darroze, including respect for produce, technical mastery and the notion that simplicity is frequently the most intricate gesture of all. What came next was more of a pilgrimage than a career ladder. Tsiotinis developed an obsession with flawless sourcing and a near-spiritual pursuit of detail while working in some of Europe’s most exacting kitchens. Before returning to France to work as a chef for Éric Frechon at Le Bristol Paris, he worked at the Michelin-starred Spondi, which has long been regarded as one of Greece’s most elegant dining establishments.

Tsiotinis was drawn back home by Greece, first to Perivoli in Santorini and then to Crete, where he was hired as the Executive Chef of the Elounda Peninsula Hotel at the age of 25. He received his first ‘Golden Chef’s Toque’ here and has continued to receive it every year since. However, Tsiotinis has always felt that evolution comes before awards. He collaborated with Pascal Barbot during another pivotal trip back to France, further refining a style that would eventually become more fluid rather than purely Greek or French. That hybrid language required its own stage by 2015. Here comes Tsiotinis’ creation, CTC, which is the best expression of his culinary philosophy.

Greek food is not ‘reinterpreted’ by CTC in the conventional sense. Rather, it reconstructs it using an international perspective and French technique. A tightly edited journey where familiarity dissolves into surprise, the restaurant’s name has come to represent an 11-course blind tasting menu.

Tsiotinis frequently likens his food to paintings. The process of plating transforms each plate from a blank canvas into a work of art. Movement, colour and negative space are all taken into account. Food that feels both architectural and emotional is the end result. Inviting guests to fully trust the kitchen, harmonious yet bold combinations emerge with a spirit of generosity. The chef’s vision and the unity of his team were validated when CTC received its first Michelin star in 2021. Since then, the kitchen has developed into a global hub that welcomes and develops chefs from all over the world, reaffirming Tsiotinis’ conviction in acceptance, communication and an international culinary future.

Seasonality is still crucial. The restaurant collaborates closely with regional vendors, enabling the rhythm of the menu to be influenced by daily availability. Because of this responsiveness, no two visits are the same; the experience is dynamic and depends on the crop, climate and catch. The cuisine is anchored by Greek heritage, but it gains structure and vitality from French technique and Mediterranean influences. This idea is reflected in the dining room. Recently moved, CTC’s new location strikes a balance between style and tranquility, a green garden softening the urban haven. It is an environment that slows down time and invites visitors to give themselves over to the story that is being told across courses. Wine pairings tell this story in liquid form and are chosen with the same care as the plates.

Beyond the pass, Tsiotinis continues to be involved in partnerships, charitable endeavors and menu consultations, establishing himself as a member of the larger culinary community in addition to being a restaurateur. His attention is increasingly focused on sustainable and responsible dining practices, which makes sense for a chef who is so committed to the integrity of ingredients.

CTC feels like the modern equivalent of Athens, a city that thrives on the tension between antiquity and reinvention. Memory meets imagination; tradition meets technique. According to Tsiotinis, Greek food is not preserved in amber but rather advanced, plated with the Aegean’s heart and Paris’s discipline. And that same promise – a blank canvas, waiting – appears on every empty dish before the first component is added.

Read more about CTC Urban Gatronomy here.
words. Patrick Clark
images. Courtesy of CTC Urban Gastronomy

Stevie Campbell

The industrial bones of the old Clément-Talbot motor factory have long since traded the scent of engine oil for the aroma of burning oak and fermented dough. Now known as Ladbroke Hall, this Edwardian landmark stands as a sprawling sanctuary for the arts in West London. Schön! recently visited for a long, sun-drenched lunch to witness the latest transformation of its resident restaurant, ‘Pollini.’ 

This is a significant relaunch, a shift in identity that sees Chef Emanuele Pollini reimagining the space as an elevated osteria. Since 2023, Pollini has been awarded the Gambero Rosso ‘Top Italian Restaurant’ accolade and earned its place within the Michelin Guide, solidifying its position within London’s culinary landscape.

Managing Director Emily Simmons, who worked extensively on the refurbishment, joined us to explain that the project is a living gallery. Every painting and every sculptural chair surrounding the tables belongs to the Carpenters Workshop Gallery. She pointed out that if a guest falls in love with the site-specific works by Christopher Le Brun or a particular bespoke table, they can actually buy the artworks they see there. Simmons was among the first to taste the new menu and helped choose the elements that now define the room, creating an artistic sanctuary that feels warm and inhabited.

The interior evolution, led by Linda Boronkay within the architecture of Vincenzo De Cotiis, has softened the grand volume of the hall. Natural light pours into the room from the surrounding windows and velvet curtains now wrap around the dining area, creating a sense of theatre that separates the tables from the surrounding gallery spaces without closing them off. The lighting is low and amber, centred around the magnificent Nacho Carbonell chandelier that hangs like a sprawling, organic cloud over the diners. It is an installation that commands the room, its cocoon-like forms glowing with a soft, diffused light that makes the Beaux Arts windows look even more imposing. 

This design shift reflects the chef’s desire for a more convivial atmosphere. Chef Pollini himself notes that as he moves forward, his palate continues to evolve, discovering new balances. “Sometimes the cooking becomes sharper, sometimes softer, but it is always driven by the search for harmony, precision and depth. This new chapter reflects that evolution,” he says. “The look has been refined, and the menu is more focused and dynamic, built around fewer dishes and seasonal ingredients, allowing each preparation to be more expressive.”

Emanuele Pollini’s journey to this West London kitchen began in Cesena, within the heart of the Emilia-Romagna region. He grew up in a household where pasta was a daily ritual, guided by the ‘azdora’, the traditional women of the house who hold the secrets of the dough. His mother and grandmothers were his primary mentors before he ventured into the professional world, eventually leading him to win the 2020 Gambero Rosso International Award and helming kitchens in Moscow and Milan. 

“My journey as a chef has always balanced two forces: the warmth of family cooking and the discipline of professional kitchens,” he tells us. “Ladbroke Hall feels like the meeting point of these two worlds, a creative place where everything I have learned can be distilled into food that is elegant, generous and approachable.”

This deep-seated respect for heritage is evident in the handmade pasta programme, which remains the pillar of his kitchen. Even after years in high-pressure international environments, he retains a playful, generous approach to hospitality that feels deeply personal.

Vegetarian diners often find themselves sidelined in traditional Italian concepts, but at Pollini, the plant-based options are among the most exciting developments on the menu. We began with the Aubergine caviar, a dish that feels like a celebration of the Mediterranean but with a contemporary twist. The inclusion of tomato yuzu kosho provides a citrusy, fermented heat that lifts the smoky richness of the aubergine. It is a vibrant pairing, unexpected yet completely harmonious. 

Chef Pollini wanted to keep a Mediterranean base while introducing a subtle evolution from his travels. “Aubergine is a classic ingredient in Italian cuisine, from parmigiana to pasta alla norma or simple grilled aubergines preserved in olive oil,” he explains. “The result still feels Italian but carries a small echo of the places I have worked and travelled.” The courgette pizzetta followed, a highlight of the new share-led menu. The vegetable is presented in varying textures, some grilled for a deeper flavour and some lightly sautéed, topped with squacquerone, a fresh cheese from his home region that offers a beautiful, gentle acidity.

Melisa Coppola

The standout of the meal was undoubtedly the Tortelloni di bufala e spinaci. These delicate parcels carry the soul of Romagna. By using a blend of buffalo ricotta, Parmigiano Reggiano and pecorino di fossa, Chef Pollini creates a depth of flavour that matches any meat dish. The pecorino di fossa, an earthy cheese aged in pits, adds a unique intensity that lingers on the palate. Every bite feels like a tribute to those afternoons in Cesena watching his grandmothers work the dough. 

The rest of the menu offers a broad savoury reach, pulling from the rich coastal and pastoral heritage of Pollini’s home. The Sea Bass Carpaccio arrives with bottarga di Mugine and a bright hit of lime, while the Vitello Tonnato presents rosé veal with the saltiness of Sicilian capers and leafy celery. A particular favourite is the Tagliatelle with Wild Boar Ragù, a dish that requires a meticulous, long-form preparation before being topped with 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano.

Pollini’s commitment to craftsmanship is shared by the staff, including floor manager Nafsika Boltsi, who told us that being part of this project was something she had manifested for months. She describes the building as a marriage of her favourite things, saying, “It’s not only the Italian cuisine, it’s also the ambiance, the fashion, the exhibitions, the art gallery. It ticks all the boxes. I think of the restaurant as an extension of the gallery. Even the tables are pieces of art.”

This cultural synergy was on full display last month during London Fashion Week, when Ladbroke Hall hosted the debut show of Daniel del Valle (‘TheVxlley’). The building was filled with an international crowd of journalists and artists, an energy that Chef Pollini says encourages his own creativity. The restaurant serves as a social anchor for these events, providing a space where the fashion world and the culinary world intersect. With upcoming exhibitions and live performances scheduled, the hall functions as a continuous stage. 

Chef Pollini sees the restaurant as part of a wider composition: “At Ladbroke Hall, every object and corner reflects the work of an artist, so the cuisine naturally becomes part of a wider composition. My responsibility is to ensure that the food supports the harmony of the space. If the cuisine is not right, the whole experience loses balance.”

Beyond the dining experience, the cultural calendar for the second half of March is packed. The signature Friday Jazz series continues on the 20th, followed by the weekend movement workshops led by Sanctum on the 21st and 22nd.

As the seasons shift, the anticipation is now turning towards the reopening of the garden this month. Designed by Luciano Giubbilei, the outdoor space features a bamboo forest and an original Prouvé House, providing a gorgeous backdrop for alfresco dining. Chef Pollini is already planning a spring menu that will lean heavily into the lighter, greener energy of the season. He intends to introduce ingredients like peas, asparagus and young zucchini to celebrate the opening. The garden will allow the restaurant’s convivial spirit to spill outdoors, offering a different way to experience the hall’s artistic atmosphere.

To finish the meal, the tiramisu is an absolute necessity. It is light, creamy and perfectly balanced; a classic executed with the kind of care that only someone with a profound respect for their roots can provide. “At the heart of everything are the values I learned from my mother and my grandmother: respect for ingredients, for the land, and for the table as a place of care and sharing,” Chef Pollini says.

Everything about the new Pollini suggests a restaurant that has found its rhythm within a very complex, multidisciplinary environment. The shift to an elevated osteria makes the incredible art and design of Ladbroke Hall feel accessible and warm. Whether sitting under the glow of the cocoon chandelier or looking forward to an autumn evening in the new interiors, guests are invited to participate in a larger creative narrative. The food is delicious, the space is spectacular and the heritage is genuine. Even in a city as fast-paced as London, there is always room for the slow traditions of the Italian table.

Discover Ladbroke Hall and the Pollini menu here.

photography. courtesy of Stevie Campbell (interiors), Barnaby Staniland (food), Laura Jalbert, Melisa Coppola
words. Gennaro Costanzo

left. Andrés Arocena
right. Scallops

Often, Michelin-starred restaurants come with a few assumptions: high prices, small portions and a hushed, formal atmosphere. Yet La Micheline – the only Spanish restaurant in Geneva that’s been awarded the honour – feels refreshingly different: the 54-seat space is brimming with warmth, with a relaxed atmosphere and a menu built around bold, unexpected flavour pairings.

Steered by Head Chef Andrés Arocena, the restaurant is now approaching its sixth year, having first opened its doors in the summer of 2020. Arocena excels at creating a menu that pairs contrasting flavours from all corners of the globe, taking inspiration from the Spanish Basque Country where he grew up, alongside the many other countries and kitchens he’s worked in. “Everything could be an inspiration,” he explains as we sit on the upper level of La Micheline. “I feel free when I’m creating.”

Seabass and mussels

From stuffed chipirones (baby squid) paired with black pudding, to langoustine croquettes crowned with blue caviar, the menu is endlessly inspiring, leaving you curious about the ideas behind each dish. After all, squid and black pudding isn’t the most conventional pairing, but Arocena states, smiling, “I like to break the rules a little bit.”

Arocena’s love for food began in childhood, surrounded by a family of home cooks and excellent ingredients. “I was always curious,” he remembers. “I saw my father and my grandmother cooking, and they were a big inspiration for me.” This curiosity soon grew into a career in kitchens, one that started in several three-Michelin-starred restaurants across San Sebastián.

left. Le céleri de la racine à la feuille
right. Andrés Arocena

After working at the world-renowned restaurant Arzak, Arocena moved on to kitchens in Marseille, Taipei and London, picking up flavours that now appear in unexpected ways at La Micheline. Eventually, he opened Ametsa with Arzak, located inside The Halkin Hotel in Belgravia. “They told me they were opening in three weeks,” he muses. “So, I left my apartment, my girlfriend, everything, and went to live in London for three years.” The restaurant earned a Michelin star just six months later.

Switzerland came into the picture after Arocena met his Genevan girlfriend in London, prompting him to apply for the role of Head Chef at Lausanne Palace, where he stayed for five years. “After that, I wanted to have my own; I wanted to be my own chef,” he says. And so, La Micheline was born.

La Micheline

The open-plan restaurant is understated and welcoming, spread across two floors with the main dining room following an L-shaped layout. The kitchen is tucked neatly into the far-left corner, visible through a glass window, where chefs quietly prep for service. A wall of lush greenery near the entrance frames a winding staircase to the upper floor, bringing a touch of the outdoors in.

There is a relaxed atmosphere, which is felt from the moment you enter. Filled with a mostly local, French-speaking crowd (always a green flag), the restaurant draws a host of regulars, one of whom visited six times just last week, Arocena tells us. But this is truly down to the team: friendly and knowledgeable, offering a premium – yet unstuffy – experience.

left. La Micheline
right. Txipirones

Still, it’s the food that draws people to La Micheline – and it doesn’t take long to see why. The St-Jacques scallops topped with a thin layer of beetroot and caviar is an absolute standout. Beautifully presented, it’s firmly anchored in the season, playfully working with textures through gentle pops of caviar. The menu’s ingredient experimentation shines particularly brightly in a two-course ode to the sea. What appears at first glance to be a mussel is in fact an edible shell filled with bouillabaisse: a rich saffron sauce inspired by Arocena’s time working in Marseille. Served on a coconut leaf and designed to be eaten like a taco, it arrives as an amuse-bouche before stone bass in a delicate white butter foam. Both are utterly delicious.

Aguachile à l’avocat, coriandre et citron vert

Stocking over 800 wines, La Micheline prides itself on offering the city’s widest selection of bottles from Spain, with around 400 represented. Throughout lunch, pairings from small, independent producers are brought to the table, a highlight being a vermouth (by Ferrer de Beniarrés, an artisan producer located in northern Valencia) which is smooth and gently bitter with a lift of orange. A 2023 white from Raúl Pérez, the world-renowned winemaker based in the Bierzo region of Spain, pairs faultlessly with the langoustine croquettes. A deliciously leathery red from Alto Moncayo Veratón is suitably served with expertly cooked Black Angus Swiss beef, finished under the grill and perfectly tender.

As with all good restaurants, La Micheline works closely with the seasons, exploring a breadth of ingredients that are evident on the regularly changing menu. Take sea buckthorn (acidic, nutrient-packed berries) for example, which Arocena worked with whilst in England. It’s an ingredient equally as common in Geneva, but available only for limited periods throughout the year. “When in season, it will last just one month, so I’ll do a dessert of the week, or scallops and sea buckthorn,” Arocena tells us. “I love when one season finishes,” he continues. “Every day is different; there’s no routine. It’s a great way to live as a chef.”

left. Le Cacao
right. Andrés Arocena

Despite the similarly sounding name tempting the restaurant’s inevitable fate – La Micheline was in fact aptly titled after the train that connects France and Switzerland, a further reference to the international influences that Arocena embraces. Going for a Michelin star was never the goal, he explains: “For me, the most important thing is to have regular customers; to have a team that is happy and proud to be here, working with me. When you have those, if Michelin comes or goes, it’s nice, but it’s never been my ambition.” And perhaps that is the key: if you truly love what you do, patrons and success will eventually follow.

Our advice? Book for lunch. Settle in for a long, lazy afternoon sampling dishes from the tasting menu with wine pairings. Expect daring dishes, supremely warm service and a strong selection of Spanish bottles, all in a welcoming atmosphere with prices that won’t break the bank. There isn’t any fussiness or grand décor, just brilliant food and a happy team. What more could you ask for?

Le Tropical

words. Miranda Bunnis
images. Courtesy of La Micheline