Schön! alive 3 | traces of dior

Sketch of the Carmen dress by Christian Dior,
from the Haute Couture autumn/winter 1951 collection.
Dior Héritage collection, Paris
illustration. Christian Dior

In a discreet courtyard in the centre of Paris, behind closed doors and under the eye of a watchful guardian, a small team of conservation specialists work diligently on preserving the archives of one of Paris’ most prestigious fashion houses.

On a crisp winter morning, Perrine Scherrer, Director of Dior Heritage, welcomes Schön! alive into the climate-controlled rooms, with walls clad in discreet grey boxes, clothing bags and carefully presented accessories. We step into the safe, where Scherrer reveals some prized pieces designed by Christian Dior himself, the remnants of his ultimately short tenure as creative director of his house, between 1947 and 1957: intricate embroideries, minute pieces of jewellery, perfume bottle designs, as well as hats that could have stepped straight out of a period drama.

“When you’re speaking of archives, it’s tricky to be completely future-oriented,” Scherrer tells us. “It is now, in the present, that we’re keeping what will be the basis for tomorrow. It’s this vision that I have for the future of Dior Heritage: to leave a trace.”

The archives at Dior were established relatively late, on the occasion of the house’s 30-year retrospective in 1987. The ‘Hommage à Christian Dior’ exhibition held at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs posed the questions that nowadays perhaps seem banal, but weren’t obvious for fashion houses at that time: Should we archive collections? How do we keep them? And, most importantly, how do we constitute an archive?

Read the feature now in Schön! alive 3, available in print and in our online shop.

Palmyre by Christian Dior,
from the Haute Couture autumn/winter 1952 collection.
Dior Héritage collection, Paris
photography. Laziz Hamani

Inside the Dior Heritage archives
photography. Adrien Dirand

The Azzedine Alaïa Dior collection
at La Galerie Dior.
photography. Adrien Dirand

The Azzedine Alaïa Dior collection
at La Galerie Dior.
photography. Adrien Dirand

Schön! alive  3, now available in print and in our online shop and at Amazon
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words. Patrick Clark