prada aw26 | layered histories

 

Yet again, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have pulled off a fascinating magic trick for Autumn/Winter 2026. Instead of sending out a sprawling army of models, they enlisted a precise cast of just fifteen women to present a whopping sixty looks. The lineup couldn’t have been been any messier – for the better of course. Hair was frazzled, makeup was heavy under the eyes and the styling gave this idea of getting ready in a rush. 

Bella Hadid made a triumphant and highly anticipated return to the runway, leading this concentrated group through an exercise in reverse dressing. Each model walked the catwalk four separate times, shucking off a layer of clothing with every pass to reveal an entirely new ensemble hidden beneath. This act of de-layering brilliantly captured the multifaceted reality of how women actually dress and transform throughout a single day, which is exactly what Prada was hoping to achieve.

The clothes themselves speak a distinctly Prada language, mixing strict tailoring and practical sportswear with the delicate romance of embroidered satin dresses. As the models peeled back the layers, they revealed unexpected combinations like sheer beaded skirts worn over simple slips and heavy canvas jackets layered atop buttoned-up nylon anoraks. Chunky crewneck sweaters gave way to exposed satin bras, proving that perspectives can transmute entirely depending on how garments are mixed without any rigid hierarchy. 

 

Fragments of archival dresses were cleverly embedded within minimal outerwear, functioning like precious memories stitched directly into the seams. Materials were intentionally faded and precious embroideries patinated to imply the passage of time, giving every piece the soulful feeling of a life well lived.

Accessories played a vital role in this narrative of transformation. The footwear transitioned from covetable kitten heels to embellished pink pumps, grounding the layered looks with a touch of eccentric glamour. Models clutched structured bags or wore childishly colourful scarves wrapped tightly around their necks, adding a playful contrast to the serious oversized coats. 

All of this unfolded inside the Fondazione Prada Deposito, which had been transformed into a living museum of domestic history. Original artworks and significant furniture populated the space, creating a rich dialogue between past and present. Guests watched the show surrounded by 16th-century tapestries, an 18th-century Venetian mirror and striking lamps from the 1900s. These artefacts span five centuries and divergent cultures, perfectly echoing a collection where meaning is inherently personal, intimately layered and filled with ceaseless possibilities.

Discover the Autumn/Winter 2026 collection here.

photography. courtesy of Prada
words. Gennaro Costanzo