Vera Wang’s asserted her cool factor this year by mixing and matching a rambunctious mix of preppy neo-goth pieces with that always on-point long-dress sophistication that has made her a heavyweight in the wedding dress industry. Plenty of sheer plaid played off the luxe grunge trends, while Vera flashed an eccentric, devil-may-care edge with a clever insect motif throughout, in sparkling winged brooches and a black tee that grumbled, “You Bug Me.”
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela continued to amaze with futuristic minimalism. Set to the Sean Nicholas Savage’s hypnotically live performance, the collection exhibited basic tanks, shorts, tailored jackets, and oversized wool sweaters in a color scheme of black and white. There were pops of orange and ash. Garments were topped off with a glossy finish. Everything about the collection was beautifully simple and modernly chic.
AllSaints introduced a fashion film, titled “Rip It Up,” in conjunction with their Fall/Winter Ready-to-Wear presentation. Creative Director Wil Beedle was inspired by the constant evolution of posters around the streets of East London where old ones are torn down, and new ones replace them. Keeping this multi-layering aspect in mind, Beedle created a collection where womenswear consisted of ripped patterned shirts under sliced jackets. AllSaints grew up this season. While this collection doesn’t contain as much grunge as seasons past, it has added proper sophistication. The men’s collection featured masterful layering in monochromatic tones of jet-black, charcoal, and grey.
En Noir’s “Tunnel Vision” collection led us down the dark rabbit hole and into designer Rob Garcia’s mysterious universe of black apparel. Garcia loved putting hoods on jackets in order to bring athleticism to street wear. We saw many different combinations of black on black, but the most interesting parts were in the detailing such as ribbed shoulder jackets, the bulletproof vest, and zippers on pockets.
Concept Korea, a joint collaboration to support Korean fashion designers and help them tap into the US fashion market, blew us away with their unique vision on modernity. Four designers showcased their collections. Kaal E.Suktae was up first with his muses in extra wide brimmed hats, long overcoats with vertical stripes, and black leggings. He skillfully layered grunge pieces to make structural silhouettes.
Choi Boko portrayed his idea of the classic white coat that has been transformed over time. His collection, christened “Fabricated Memory,” highlighted oversized, multi-coloured printed coats in blue, red, yellow, black, and grey. His pieces were like hanging works of art, including one origami-structured skirt.
Beyond Closet by Tae Yong brought army influences to his menswear line. From military coats to tailored wool pants, the collection illustrates a soldier on leave. Yong combined established uniform silhouettes with hip-hop graffiti patterns exemplifying a collection where military meets street.
Park Youn Soo drew inspiration from a tender moment shared between two loved ones over dinner for her brand Big Park. We saw black and white checkered skirts reminiscent of the tablecloth in restaurants and wine glass prints on silk shirtdresses. A standout piece was the oatmeal long cape coat that was tied in a beautiful manner across the chest.