Cartier.
Cartier watches have established the Maison as the watchmaker of shapes through their signature designs, according to the house’s latest retrospective. Watches & Wonders 2026 serves as the stage for this latest collection, where the focus moves away from simple timekeeping and into the world of architectural sculpture. Every piece revealed this year highlights a unique dual perspective, merging the eye of a jeweller with the hand of a watchmaker. These novelties offer a rich palette of gold, platinum and intricate motifs to match every wardrobe.
For the early noughties luxury aficionados, the Roadster makes a triumphant return with a silhouette that pulls straight from the world of vintage automotive engineering. Aerodynamic curves define the case, mimicking the streamlined bodywork of mid-century racing cars. Proportions have been reconsidered for this new era, resulting in a more ergonomic fit that feels natural on the wrist. Four new rivets anchor the bezel, while the integrated crown creates a silhouette that looks entirely unified. Large and medium versions come in steel, gold or a mix of both, powered by the 1847 MC or 1899 MC self-winding movements. Blue or anthracite sword-shaped hands add a dash of colour, finished with luminescence for visibility during late evenings.
Cartier.
Cartier.
Textural experimentation reaches a peak with the Baignoire, where the famous ‘Clou de Paris’ motif takes over the entire surface of the watch. Originating in the 1920s, this geometric pattern involves a series of small, pyramid-like protrusions that catch the light from every angle. Monochrome gold versions appear as if they were carved from a single block of precious metal, with the motif flowing seamlessly from the dial onto the bangle bracelet. Hand-finishing ensures that every pyramid remains defined without losing its lustre. A more opulent version features an inverted diamond setting, where a snow-set dial of a hundred stones creates a shimmering contrast against the structured gold.
Sculptural volume takes a different form in the Myst de Cartier, a design that looks back to the flamboyant jewellery watches created by Jeanne Toussaint in the 1930s. Symmetry and contrast drive the aesthetic, using alternating curves and a domed crystal to create a sense of constant motion. Black lacquer spots, hand-painted at the Maison des Métiers d’Art, decorate the surface alongside geometric pavé diamonds and deep black onyx. Beads of precious metal are strung together to form the bracelet, using a hidden elastic strap instead of a traditional clasp. Choosing to remove the hardware allows the watch to wrap around the wrist like a piece of high jewellery, creating a silhouette that looks effortless despite the 30 hours of work required for the stone setting alone.
Cartier.
Cartier.
Platinum becomes the main character for the tenth opus of Cartier Privé, a collection that revisits the most legendary shapes in the archive. A triptych of designs, including the ‘Tank Normale,’ the ‘Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir’ and the ‘Crash Squelette,’ appears in this most precious of metals. Burgundy accents on the straps and dials provide a warm finish to the cool silver tones of the platinum. Only 150 pieces of the Crash Squelette exist, featuring a manual winding movement that appears distorted to fit the famously melted shape of the case. Skeletonised bridges take the form of Roman numerals, hammered by hand to create a raw, industrial texture that contrasts with the polished exterior.
Precision engineering defines the Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, which fits a remarkably thin 1928 MC movement into the classic tortoise-shell shape. Start, stop and reset functions live within a single button integrated into the crown, maintaining the clean lines of the original 1998 model. Looking through the sapphire caseback reveals the intricate Côtes de Genève finishing, a hallmark of traditional Swiss watchmaking. The Tank Normale completes the trio, referencing a 1934 design with a brushed seven-row platinum bracelet that adds a weighty, historic presence to the collection.
Meanwhile, aeronautical history informs the Santos de Cartier Chronograph, updated this year for those who require functionality alongside a high-fashion edge. Measuring over 47 millimetres, the large model prioritises visibility with a dial that uses alternating satin and sunray effects. Black sword-shaped hands stand out against the silvered background, while three sub-counters track elapsed time with absolute reliability. Over 70 steps are required to finish the dial alone, showing the level of commitment Cartier brings to its sportier silhouettes.
Rory Payne. Maud Rémy-Lonvis.
Cartier.
Mechanical expertise lives inside the case with the 1904-CH MC movement, designed to resist magnetic fields and temperature shifts. Reliability is a key focus here, offering a 47-hour power reserve for those moving between different environments. Owners can switch between an alligator strap and a metal bracelet in seconds using the QuickSwitch™ system, while the SmartLink™ technology allows for immediate size adjustments without the need for tools. Yellow gold and steel options provide a more traditional look, while the all-steel version paired with a rubber strap feels like a contemporary take on a pilot’s essential.
Choosing any piece from the Watches & Wonders 2026 collection means embracing a philosophy where the shape of the watch dictates the engineering. Global availability begins soon, providing collectors with the chance to own a piece of this architectural legacy. Find out more here.
photography. courtesy of Cartier, Rory Payne, Maud Rémy-Lonvis
words. Gennaro Costanzo
