Miu Miu knows exactly how to make crinkled leather look incredibly expensive. Having previously explored the older manufacturing secrets of the Italian house, the latest instalment of their behind-the-scenes series shifts the lens to the famous matelassé technique. First sent down the Paris runway during the Autumn/Winter 2006 season, the elaborately worked material quickly became the undisputed signature of the brand. Today, the quilted finish dominates the leather goods offering, bridging the gap between historical craftsmanship and a very modern sort of playfulness.
Supermodel and recurring face of the brand, Gigi Hadid, is the protagonist of the new Miu Miu 2026 leather goods campaign. Photographed by the legendary Steven Meisel, the narrative follows Hadid reclaiming a stuffy bourgeois apartment. She looks undeniably gamine, shifting her posture and gaze from a relaxed, laissez-faire attitude to something far more playfully confrontational. Her individuality shines against a backdrop of neutral, vintage furniture that looks like it belongs to another era entirely. Miuccia Prada and art director Christopher Simmonds have built a controlled, graphic world where personal power outshines the decor.
Naturally, the true stars of the imagery are the bags she carries. The Arcadie and the Wander take the lead, showing off the emblematic matelassé leather that has become the most recognisable signature of the house. Vibrant pop colours clash beautifully with the muted surroundings, while more sophisticated tones blend right in. Both designs feature quilted bodies that manage to be aesthetically impactful while remaining compliant to the wearer’s body.
The Wander bag brings a curvaceous, soft form to the shop floor, stretching surprisingly well to accommodate whatever you happen to carry. Sitting right next to it is the Arcadie, a boxy design that borrows heavily from the classic bowling bag. Both styles arrive in a constant rotation of mini, medium and macro sizes. Shoppers can find them crafted from smooth leather or soft suede, dipping into a palette that ranges from classic neutrals and delicate pastels to incredibly bright pop shades. Limited edition runs frequently appear to commemorate special occasions, ensuring collectors always have something new to hunt down.
The allure of these silhouettes often stems from their ubiquitous presence in the wider Miu Miu cinematic universe. Fashion enthusiasts will recall the Wander’s viral moment when it became the focal point of the Spring/Summer 2023 campaign featuring Kendall Jenner, alongside its frequent appearances on the arms of Sydney Sweeney and Hadid herself. The matelassé managed to make the ‘ugly-chic’ aesthetic feel entirely aspirational, a feat only Prada could truly pull off.
Creating that plump surface requires an intense level of skill from specialist artisans based in Tuscany. The entire process begins with an extreme level of care during the initial selection stage. Raw materials are chosen to accommodate natural imperfections, guaranteeing that every single finished bag remains entirely unique. Once the skin passes inspection, technicians cut the panels according to an individual, digitally produced pattern.
Cut leather pieces are known internally as ‘sbozzi.’ They travel straight to the embroidery workshop where the real transformation takes place. Artisans pair the leather with specific wadding and an elasticised fabric before quilting the layers together at maximum tension. Releasing the material from the machine causes the leather to contract violently, instantly forming the signature crinkled appearance. The type of matelassé required dictates the shape, style and length of the stitches for each distinctive design.
Getting the bag ready for the final customer involves a meticulous assembly phase: leather goods experts combine the newly quilted panels with smooth elements, internal linings and structural supports; edges must be carefully skived to enable the final stitching, and everything from attaching the closures to placing the iconic logo happens by hand.
Despite such a generous use of wadding and rich leather, the final product weighs surprisingly little.
Discover more here.
photography. courtesy of Miu Miu, Steven Meisel
words. Gennaro Costanzo
