miu miu aw26 | a quiet power

 

Although we’re in the middle of summer, Miuccia Prada has decided to turn the lights down low and prepare for autumn, plunging her signature muses into a flickering twilight world for the Miu Miu Autumn/Winter 2026 campaign.

Photographer Zoe Ghertner and director Renell Medrano isolated IT-girls Hailey Bieber and Xiao Wen Ju against a dark, industrial landscape flooded with deep blue tones – a complete 180 from their main runway event in Paris. That earlier show famously saw the brand transform the interior of the Palais d’Iéna into an artificial wild forest, walking a theatrical mix of cultural figures like Gillian Anderson, Chloë Sevigny, Gemma Ward and K-pop star Yeonjun.

For this campaign iteration, stylist Lotta Volkova places protective outerwear over pieces that feel almost intimate. Heavy zip-front shearling jackets, oversized trapper hats and sculptural opera coats wrap around the body like winter armour, while beneath them stretch poplin shirts, washed double cashmere knits and linen separates introduce a softer rhythm. Embroidered tulle, satin trims and lingerie-inspired ribbons continue one of the collection’s strongest runway themes, expressing femininity and a sense of freedom.

Zoe Ghertner for Miu Miu.

Zoe Ghertner for Miu Miu.

Tailoring also takes on a more relaxed character than previous seasons. Cropped jackets are paired with abbreviated skirts, elongated sleeves soften otherwise structured silhouettes, and classic knitwear is layered over delicate underpinnings to create looks that feel instinctive. Fur appears repeatedly throughout the campaign, from generously proportioned outerwear to textured collars and trims that frame the face beneath oversized hats. The familiar tension between innocence and maturity, long explored by Miu Miu, runs through every look, reinforced by silhouettes that borrow equally from vintage wardrobes and contemporary street dressing.

Long-time followers of the house will immediately recognise the return of the Bubble shoe, first introduced during the early 2000s and now revived with its distinctive rounded sole. Stretch leather knee-high boots and chunky leather slides bring very different attitudes to the collection, while oversized sunglasses, inspired by 1970s optical shapes, conceal as much as they reveal. Bags remain central to the story, with the new Vivant joining the increasingly recognisable Rendez-Vous and the iconic Arcadie, each crafted in exceptionally supple leather that reprises the softness running throughout the ready-to-wear.

Zoe Ghertner for Miu Miu.

Zoe Ghertner for Miu Miu.

Discover the capsule collection here.

photography. courtesy of Zoe Ghertner for Miu Miu
words. Gennaro Costanzo