Looking at the padded, all-white backdrop of MM6 Maison Margiela’s Milan presentation this past week, it was clear that something special was about to take place. The space was wrapped entirely in white, with walls, bannisters, televisions and everything else that made the Milan Maison Margiela store familiar suddenly bathed in the rich whites and cloudy fabrics that run through the label’s most recent collection.
As could be inferred from the decor, airy, voluminous designs are at the core of this new collection. Jackets resemble duvets. Cushioned material finds its way into just about everything. The phrase “THAT IRIS SUITS YOU,” a play on Maison’s historical print “THAT SUIT IS YOU SIR,” is placed across suiting in the form of fabric cutouts.
With these quirks acknowledged, the staples upon which these designs are based make them utterly wearable. Even as pleated skirts, parkas and dresses are puffed and shifted into larger-than-life creations, their monochromatic colour palette and simplicity give them a stylish ease. This is also assisted by the brand’s commitment to the theme – even pockets and buttons are executed with the collection’s requisite padding. Maison Margiela refers to its own knee-high boots as being “disguised as large, oversized pillowcases.” A description like this could spell a death sentence in another context; for Maison Margiela, it’s a badge worn with pride.
To demonstrate this wearability, Maison Margiela brought out talent not often seen on the runways of Milan. Models were cast from the street, with not a single model being under the age of 70. That said, age was not a trait found in the collection, with offerings feeling delightfully modern despite their classic influence. Among those classic influences came items borrowed from traditionally masculine attire, such as trucker jackets and oversized trench coats, which lent the collection a unified form.
Hanging on the arms of the many models were the collection’s numerous accessories. Some were difficult to notice, small white bags hiding beneath the draped white fabrics of other pieces, while others were difficult to forget. An oversized bag emblazoned with the MM6 logo was introduced, of course in white, while the logo itself found its way into other accessories, such as earrings and necklaces, inflatable pieces cast in metal then painted white.
The collection was presented alongside a techno set by Frédéric Sanchez, creating a moody, contemporary vibe for the event, which was open to the public. Five of the pieces were immediately purchasable, with others coming to stores according to the regular seasonal schedule.
Find more from Maison Margiela here.
words. Braden Bjella