The excitement is palpable when we enter the white box in the gardens of the Cité Universitaire in the South of Paris. This show is one of the eagerly anticipated ones – Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are about to debut their first collection as creative directors at the helm of LOEWE. In the midst of the star-studded array of guests milling about before the show – Pedro Almodóvar, Tracee Ellis Ross, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Solange Knowles, Sarah Paulson, Parker Posey and Liv Tyler, to name but a few – a sense of the direction and the artistic vision that we’re about to witness is already being teased. It’s not just a set of clothes we’re about to discover, but a distinct universe, a way of crafting and designing, and the community that gravitates around the New York duo is already in synch the universe of the house.
“To enter LOEWE is to take on codes shaped over 180 years of history, defined above all by an enduring commitment to craft and its Spanish identity,” McCullough and Hernandez explained ahead of the show. “Our task is to carry this spirit forward, interpreting it through our own distinct lens. How might craft be redefined today? How far can one push the expression of the handmade before its very traces of making disappear?” The idea of building a narrative from a house so rich in heritage, as well as taking the reins of a house after the ten plus year tenure of Anderson, could be a daunting feat. But, as the first models emerged on the runway – this was a new chapter, a vibrant new vision, this collection was full of joy and energy. And everyone breathed the excitement collectively.
Taking the work of Ellsworth Kelly ‘Yellow Panel with Red Curve’ as an embodiment of the new collection, the primary colours and vivid tones of the designs were the first striking element – a sense of vital summer heat, of sensuality and skin underpinned with an inventive take on the house’s heritage materials – leather, ceramics, textile. The looks were sculptural and strong, with a sense of sporty design that was new and playful. Floral motifs on leather, bustier style dresses hinted at the LOEWE legacy whilst introducing totally new visual codes. The models showed skin, glowy and fresh – full of summer energy and a sexy touch that had us lusting for joy.
McCullough and Hernandez defined the leitmotif of the show as “a vibrancy and tactility that feels fundamental to the House; a chromatic intensity and sensuality that feels inherent to its Spanish roots; and ultimately an optimism and spirit that we deeply identify with.” With that inherent sense of vital, driving energy, one thing became apparent: the new LOEWE silhouette is sexy, strong and bold, a primary and minimal sense of life. This new chapter is one we’ll be following with enthusiasm and enticement.
Discover more on loewe.com
words. Patrick Clark





























































































