
left.
blazer. EgonLab
top. Ottolinger
trousers. Karl Lagerfeld
shoes. Ottolinger
right.
shirt. Song for the Mute
skirt. Ottolinger
There’s a tiny dachshund called Louis wandering around the apartment while Chloë Cassens talks. Every so often he barks, briefly stealing the attention, blissfully unaware that his owner has become one of the most fascinating young figures in contemporary art history. Few people expected the woman behind ‘Sacred Monster’ to end up in front of the camera herself, but the Belgian-American writer and curator is ready to step into the spotlight – fair warning, though, she might sting!
For years, Cassens preferred directing the conversation towards artists, films and forgotten cultural icons rather than herself. Then came features in Le Monde and The New York Times and suddenly the person trying to preserve another family’s legacy had become part of the story too. For someone who describes herself, and is described by her own friends, as more hermit than public figure, that level of exposure took some real adjusting to. “There was this real, personal reckoning for me of really having to realise that I’m no longer just a totally hidden person,” she says. “I feel like it’s been this very slow, undressing of myself publicly.”
Schön! sat down with the Gucci heiress to discuss her admiration for Jean Cocteau, releasing a second volume of ‘Sacred Monster,’ embodying the edginess of the scorpio and what she’s learned from her late grandfather.

left.
coat. LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi
shirt. KSAM
bubble shorts and leggings. Songzio
shoes. Christian Louboutin
right.
full look. Givenchy
Days before returning to her home in Paris, Cassens was wearing her Schiaparelli scorpion brooch – a gift from the Maison which nearly got confiscated at airport security. Though, the jewellery isn’t the only reason she’s known as ‘Little Scorpion.’ Despite sounding like the nickname of someone who delights in causing chaos, Cassens couldn’t be further from it. There’s something faintly gothic, hopelessly romantic and wonderfully offbeat about her, setting her apart from the mould of a conventional archivist. The name itself comes from something far more affectionate: Cassens and her grandfather shared the same astrological sign, with birthdays just one day apart, and the family nickname stuck decades before it appeared in newspaper headlines.
The grandfather in question is Séverin Wunderman, and his story is extremely difficult to summarise in one line. A child hidden from the Nazis in Belgium during the war, he later built his own legacy in business, convincing Aldo Gucci to hand him the licence to produce Gucci watches in 1968 – a deal that eventually made him known across the industry as the ‘Time Lord.’ From the age of 19, Wunderman dedicated himself to collecting the work of Jean Cocteau, assembling more than 1,500 pieces spanning drawings, ceramics, manuscripts, photographs and films. The collection eventually found a permanent home in Menton on the French Riviera, where the Musée Jean Cocteau Collection Séverin Wunderman opened in 2011.
The museum has remained closed since storm damage forced its doors shut in 2018. Since then, the battle has shifted beyond repairs. Cassens has spent the past three years fighting to secure the future of her grandfather’s collection, challenging the City of Menton through the courts over access to the works and the museum’s long-term stewardship. “Cocteau wanted this work accessible; he didn’t keep it in a private collection because he wanted other people to see it,” she says. “I don’t know if it’s madness or just passion and curiosity, but really, I think it comes down to: do you want to do it? The most unteachable thing is whether you have the desire and the curiosity, or you don’t.”

dress. r.l.e.
necklace. Elena Najdovska
shoes. Christian Louboutin
blazer. Kolor
The fight became so consuming that she eventually left her previous job as a sex educator to devote herself to it full-time. For instance, long before becoming one of Cocteau’s most recognisable champions, Cassens produced the podcast ‘The Sex Ed’ alongside Liz Goldwyn, later becoming its Media Director and overseeing partnerships with HBO, MatchesFashion and – somewhat full circle – Gucci itself. She also produced a series of literacy shorts for Pornhub’s parent company MindGeek.
Legal action wasn’t the plan going in, she admits, but sometimes there’s no gentler route left. “We are extremely fortunate because I have the resources to be able to do this,” she says, aware that other families protecting equally significant legacies simply don’t have the same time, money or legal footing behind them. Even so, stepping into her grandfather’s role hasn’t come without doubt.“I feel like I’m wearing a pair of shoes that’s a little too big and I’m waiting to grow into them.”

left.
blazer. EgonLab
right.
jacket. Willy Chavarria
shirt. Song for the Mute
mesh pants and skirt. Ottolinger
However, the uncertainty hasn’t stopped her from building something entirely her own out of the collection. Her biweekly essay project, ‘Sacred Monster,’ began life as an indie Substack – a mixture between history lessons and pop culture analysis. Its name was borrowed directly from a phrase Cocteau himself coined to describe a celebrity whose flaws and eccentricities are forgiven simply because their talent demands it. It’s an opportune title for a project centred on a queer artist who spent much of his career being dismissed as too strange, too flamboyant and, in the eyes of many contemporaries, too difficult to take seriously.
For anyone unfamiliar with Cocteau, he was one of the 20th century’s great polymaths – a poet, novelist, playwright and filmmaker – who moved through Paris’ avant-garde alongside Picasso and Diaghilev’s ‘Ballets Russes,’ directed the 1946 film ‘La Belle et la Bête,’ wrote ‘Les Enfants Terribles’ and created the 1917 ballet ‘Parade,’ a work so bewildering to its first audiences that it reportedly pushed the poet Apollinaire to coin the word ‘surreal’ to describe it.
Yet Cassens sees him as far more than a towering figure of 20th century art. “He really was, maybe without realising it, a voice for people who just didn’t feel like they fit in anywhere, even if he himself was trying to fit in with people who thought he was a freak,” she says. It’s one of the reasons she believes his work still resonates today, well beyond the art world.

left.
coat. LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi
shirt. KSAM
bubble shorts and leggings. Songzio
shoes. Christian Louboutin
right.
blazer. Kolor
Cassens’ first volume of essays grew, rather charmingly, out of doodles scrawled in old Lisa Frank notebooks. Jean Cocteau naturally takes centre stage, joined by everyone from Sarah Bernhardt, Britney Spears and Michael Jackson to Kanye West and John Galliano, each essay asking readers to wrestle with the uncomfortable space between admiration and accountability instead of searching for easy answers. “We expect moral purity from artists,” she says. “I think that’s crazy. Everybody is flawed and we are all in our own way little sacred monsters.” The distinction between monster and individual matters to her, and it’s part of why she thinks the sacred monster is something of an endangered species now. “The most fertile time for sacred monsters was the 60s through the 80s,” she says. “Today, all celebrities and cultural figures, they’re way too self-aware. They don’t allow themselves to be monstrous at all.”
These days, she’s just as likely to be introducing audiences to Cocteau through curated film screenings, talks at the Philosophical Research Society in Los Angeles or special programming with the French Film Festival in New Orleans. And readers arrive from every direction. “I have straight men who come because they think I’m hot,” she laughs, “and then they leave obsessed with Jean Cocteau. That’s the ultimate success for me.”

left.
jacket. Willy Chavarria
shirt. Song for the Mute
mesh pants and skirt. Ottolinger
right.
full look. Givenchy
That openness has carried ‘Sacred Monster’ far beyond its original essays. The second volume, unveiled this summer, expands into subjects including Daft Punk, dancefloor eroticism, sex work and the aftermath of the Palisades fire.
Running throughout are broader themes of eroticism, sex and sexuality, exploring how pleasure has been celebrated, monetised and vilified across the centuries. More personal than its predecessor, the collection also weaves in stories from her own life, from partying across Europe and the United States to growing up in Los Angeles before social media made teenage mischief considerably harder to get away with. Meanwhile, a book dedicated to her grandfather’s remarkable life is already taking shape.
Between essays, film screenings and talks, Cassens continues introducing new audiences to Cocteau’s world, whether they arrive through Michael Jackson, fashion, cinema or, as she jokes, because they fancied the straight woman writing about French art. Some leave with a new favourite artist, others leave questioning the way they think about celebrity, legacy or art itself. Either way, they’re leaving with something they didn’t arrive with – perhaps that’s exactly what Cocteau would have wanted.

full look. Valentino
bag. Valentino
‘Sacred Monster’ Vol. 1 is available via Substack and online for the physical copy. Volume 2 will be released with a launch on August 27 with Wienholt Projects and Hat & Beard Press at The Loved One in Los Angeles, CA.
photography. Szymon Stępniak
fashion, creative direction & production. Alix Taccardo
talent. Chloë Cassens
hair. María Pélo using Kovi Hair Extensions
make up. Ellada Satoueva @TAG Agency using Byredo and Elemis
photography assistant. Federico Zardi
styling assistant. Emma Welterlin
interview. Gennaro Costanzo






