There was something almost geological about Hermès’ Summer 2026 menswear show, like watching layers of dust, air, and light settle slowly on the skin. The setting, as always, was Palais d’Iéna, but the mood this season felt looser, warmer, and more generous.
The show opened softly: trousers cut wide and short at the ankle, worn with open-toed rope sandals that made each step feel like a vacation. The palette unfolded like a Mediterranean still life, featuring kraft paper, soft café, muted caramel, and flashes of mint green and chalk. Burgundy crept in later, deeper than expected and all the more precise for it.
But it was the fabric language that spoke loudest. Hermès reinvented its signature leathers, sculpting, perforating, and latticing them to create a light, gauze-like texture. One nubuck top came open-knit at the sides and shoulders, revealing the skin little by little. Even the tailoring played along, with shirts made from cotton and silk handkerchief checks cinched or collapsed by the wind.
Jackets didn’t fall neatly into any category. Some had the shell of a blouson, the attitude of a windbreaker, and the fluidity of something altogether looser. There was one standout piece in crispy wool canvas, its back belted with a gentle hold that shaped the body without commanding it. Another came in shantung silk, double-breasted and cut just sharp enough to remind you this is still Hermès, even when the collar feels like a whisper.
Textures remained tactile but never heavy. Cashmere knits with openwork stitch patterns, fine cotton-silk poplins with twisted pleats, washed silk scarf collars left loose at the neck. Leather — sporty, featherlight, and often barely there — appeared as vest linings, blazer panels, and sleek accessories worn low on the hip or looped through fingers.
Accessories added a playful touch. Fringed leather losanges swung like modern charms, while reed-thin silver bracelets caught the light at just the right angle. Even the belts had personality – some were in braided bridle leather, while others slipped casually through linen trousers, as if meant to be worn without cinching anything.
Hermès went big this season with its bags. Oversized H canvas pieces with leather trim conveyed both travel and ease. The Garden Party Voyage tote returned in a canvas-and-leather lattice, roomy and casual, perfect for a city trip or countryside escape. The weekender-style Long Courrier garment bag, crafted in H canvas and Barénia calfskin, was equally strong. It featured buckles and a discreet card slot stamped with Nichanian’s initials. Haut à Courroies and Étrivière totes blended canvas and leather in calm, functional forms.
Discover the collection here.
photography. Bruno Staub (in situ)
words. Gennaro Costanzo
