gcds ss26 | what’s in my bag?

Sam Rock.

Taking a stud gun to a plain white tee hours before the Met Gala might sound like a recipe for disaster, but for Stella McCartney, it resulted in an era-defining moment that still resonates today. Twenty years have passed since her first landmark partnership with H&M, a milestone that now brings the duo back together for a second round of wardrobe-altering designs. 

“I see this collection as a journey through my fashion history. It is a true mix of current classics and some of my old favourites that showcase my first forays into fashion and the development of my signatures. It’s playful, strong, sparkling, joyful, refined,” McCartney says.

In a recent conversation with Ann-Sofie Johansson, creative advisor and Head of Design Womenswear at H&M, McCartney reflected on her journey from a rule-breaking newcomer to a knighted pillar of the industry. Success during her career often arrived at a pace so fast that the British designer rarely allowed herself to process the magnitude of her achievements. It took advice from Oprah Winfrey to change that perspective, encouraging the designer to let the accolades land properly during a conversation before McCartney received France’s highest order from President Macron.

Sam Rock.

Johansson views this reunion as a vital opportunity to move environmental responsibility back to the top of the global agenda. Over two decades, the partnership has matured from simple organic cotton initiatives to a comprehensive overhaul of textile sourcing. “Stella has always had a bold vision for fashion, and this collection tracks her journey from a young, rule-breaking voice to a master of timeless design,” she says. “One of the reasons why we decided to collaborate again is to show what progress we have made during these 20 years. Stella inspired us to be better. When we saw her commitment to sustainability, we realised we had to match that ambition.”

Shot by Sam Rock, the campaign features a cast that includes pop star Reneé Rapp, Angelina Kendall and Adwoa Aboah. McCartney views the selection of these women as a vital part of the story. “I lean into real women that, I think, have something to say. I’m a big advocate of women, supporting women and their success,” she says.

Central to this relaunch is the &Stella initiative, a tagline that appears throughout the campaign. Reinterpreted in various forms – ‘&Here,’ ‘&Now,’ ‘&Me,’ ‘&You’ – it acts as a call for connection, care and a more conscious way of living.

Sam Rock.

Reaching into her bedazzled archives has produced a collection that functions as a personal map of her fashion history. McCartney lovers will find a mix of archival hits and contemporary classics: one of the most recognisable inclusions is the Rock Royalty mini tee, a piece born from that chaotic DIY session with Liv Tyler, alongside contemporary icons like the Falabella-inspired knitwear.

H&M’s global reach allows McCartney to infiltrate the industry from within, replacing standard industry practices with cleaner alternatives at a massive scale. “I hate how elitist my industry is. It’s always gone against who I am as a person,” she says. “I hate that working in a sustainable way – sourcing better, growing mushrooms, leathers – means that my price points are higher, because I am sourcing and supplying and making in a much more costly way, and I can’t soak it all up in my margin if I want to have a healthy business that can change the industry.”

Sam Rock.

Innovation is evident in every detail, from crystals composed of 80% recycled glass to chains crafted from recycled aluminium. To empower the consumer, every garment features a swing tag detailing its exact composition, such as the benefits of recycled polyester over virgin alternatives. McCartney believes this transparency is essential for shoppers who often feel overwhelmed by environmental concerns.

Johansson notes that the conversation around environmental responsibility needs a fresh injection of energy to keep consumers engaged. “Sustainability has fallen off the agenda a little bit now. Nobody seems to talk about sustainability any longer, including H&M. We just thought it was great to team up again, join forces and actually put it back on the agenda and continue to keep that conversation going,” she says.

Tailoring remains a central theme, pulling from the designer’s background in menswear and Savile Row expertise to create silhouettes that work for anyone. Oversized shirting and sweeping trenches provide the foundation, while rib-knitted dresses use the iconic Falabella chain as a decorative neckline. “I really wanted to make it quite gender fluid because I take men’s suits all the time,” she says. “I definitely wanted to have a solution-driven wardrobe.”

Sam Rock.

The technical achievements of the collection are equally impressive. A timeless trench coat is crafted from 100% Regenerative Organic Certified cotton, supporting soil restoration and biodiversity. For those seeking a bolder aesthetic, the python-printed cropped bomber might be the best choice, crafted entirely with EcoWel and BioFleax materials. Partywear is the best example of this innovation: the range includes a shimmering tassel bra worthy of Britney Spears,  lace leggings and tops covered in recycled glass stones and brass.

Familiar horse prints and bold cherry motifs appear on mesh dresses, offering a splash of colour against the more muted tones of the palette. Footwear avoids the use of animal products entirely, relying instead on natural materials and coatings derived from industrial corn and recycled vegetable oil. Loafers and flip-flop mules look incredibly soft, featuring a finish that mimics the feel of moleskin without utilising a single animal bone or toxic tanning chemical.

The collaboration also includes a robust accessories range, featuring six bag styles – including small shoulder bags, giant totes and a chocolate-toned bag with a chain strap – as well as necklaces, charms and earrings crafted from recycled metal. Meanwhile, the vegan Frayme bags use bio-based coatings derived from industrial corn.

Sam Rock.

“I think when you buy into this, you’ll buy into a strong idea about who you are and what choices you’re making as a consumer. Fashion is something you can get lost in, and you should escape into it, but at the same time, you should be aware it’s one of the most harmful industries to the planet,” McCartney says.

Demand for the original 2005 collection saw pieces sell out in minutes, a frenzy that McCartney plans to witness firsthand by potentially joining the queue in a beard and disguise. 

The H&M x Stella McCartney collection is launching on 7th May in stores globally and online. Discover more here.

photography. courtesy of Sam Rock
words. Gennaro Costanzo

Heliot Emil.

Gorpcore continues to dominate the timeline, but taking actual hiking equipment to fashion week often ends in a stylistic disaster. Danish brothers and co-founders Julius and Victor Juul have a much better solution for anyone wanting to conquer both the Dolomite mountains and the concrete of London. Heliot Emil is officially relaunching its highly anticipated Hiking Boots, teaming up with Italian mountaineering experts Diemme for a much-needed injection of industrial aesthetics into the world of luxury trekking gear. Every pair represents a deep dive into the archives of mountaineering history, reimagined for those who prefer the brutalist architecture of the city to the greenery of the countryside.

Artisanal heritage serves as the foundation for this collaboration, with production taking place in the heart of the Italian Dolomite mountains. 40 specialised craftsmen at the Diemme atelier contribute their knowledge to complete just a single unit; while 72 individual stages make up the production cycle, beginning with manual skiving and concluding with steam-setting and hand-polishing. Choosing to avoid automation during the lasting process means the leather maintains its natural elasticity, providing a fit that adapts to the wearer rather than forcing the foot into an unyielding shape.

Heliot Emil.

185 individual components come together to form the final silhouette, showcasing a level of complexity that is rarely seen in modern streetwear. Multi-density structural reinforcements hide beneath the surface, while 12 different stress points receive extra protection through a high-pressure bonding method. Hand-applied TPU toe caps provide a protective barrier against the elements, paired with internal heel counters that ensure stability on uneven ground. Getting that signature industrial finish requires a specialised four-stage buffing cycle, stripping back the natural shine of the leather to achieve a matte, almost metallic appearance. 

Colour palettes remain as strictly curated as the construction process. Black leather remains a core part of the identity, available in the standard ankle height or the more experimental Tall Hiking Boots silhouette for those wanting to make a bolder impression. Light Grey appears as a clinical, structural alternative that highlights the layered paneling of the design, while the new Dark Brown offers a more traditional earth tone for a classic hiking look. Both versions utilise the same high-level technical specifications, balancing a unique structural language with the functional requirements of a heavy-duty boot.

Bringing utilitarian elements into a high-fashion context has always been a specialty for the brothers and this relaunch feels like the ultimate expression of that philosophy. Standard silhouettes sit alongside the more architectural tall versions, allowing for a variety of styling options that move far beyond the usual gorpcore aesthetic. 

Heliot Emil.

Heliot Emil.

The Heliot Emil Hiking Boots are now available online and in select stores worldwide. Find out more here.

photography. courtesy of Heliot Emil 
words. Gennaro Costanzo

Cartier.

Cartier watches have established the Maison as the watchmaker of shapes through their signature designs, according to the house’s latest retrospective. Watches & Wonders 2026 serves as the stage for this latest collection, where the focus moves away from simple timekeeping and into the world of architectural sculpture. Every piece revealed this year highlights a unique dual perspective, merging the eye of a jeweller with the hand of a watchmaker. These novelties offer a rich palette of gold, platinum and intricate motifs to match every wardrobe.

For the early noughties luxury aficionados, the Roadster makes a triumphant return with a silhouette that pulls straight from the world of vintage automotive engineering. Aerodynamic curves define the case, mimicking the streamlined bodywork of mid-century racing cars. Proportions have been reconsidered for this new era, resulting in a more ergonomic fit that feels natural on the wrist. Four new rivets anchor the bezel, while the integrated crown creates a silhouette that looks entirely unified. Large and medium versions come in steel, gold or a mix of both, powered by the 1847 MC or 1899 MC self-winding movements. Blue or anthracite sword-shaped hands add a dash of colour, finished with luminescence for visibility during late evenings.

Cartier.

Cartier.

Textural experimentation reaches a peak with the Baignoire, where the famous ‘Clou de Paris’ motif takes over the entire surface of the watch. Originating in the 1920s, this geometric pattern involves a series of small, pyramid-like protrusions that catch the light from every angle. Monochrome gold versions appear as if they were carved from a single block of precious metal, with the motif flowing seamlessly from the dial onto the bangle bracelet. Hand-finishing ensures that every pyramid remains defined without losing its lustre. A more opulent version features an inverted diamond setting, where a snow-set dial of a hundred stones creates a shimmering contrast against the structured gold.

Sculptural volume takes a different form in the Myst de Cartier, a design that looks back to the flamboyant jewellery watches created by Jeanne Toussaint in the 1930s. Symmetry and contrast drive the aesthetic, using alternating curves and a domed crystal to create a sense of constant motion. Black lacquer spots, hand-painted at the Maison des Métiers d’Art, decorate the surface alongside geometric pavé diamonds and deep black onyx. Beads of precious metal are strung together to form the bracelet, using a hidden elastic strap instead of a traditional clasp. Choosing to remove the hardware allows the watch to wrap around the wrist like a piece of high jewellery, creating a silhouette that looks effortless despite the 30 hours of work required for the stone setting alone.

Cartier.

Cartier.

Platinum becomes the main character for the tenth opus of Cartier Privé, a collection that revisits the most legendary shapes in the archive. A triptych of designs, including the ‘Tank Normale,’ the ‘Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir’ and the ‘Crash Squelette,’ appears in this most precious of metals. Burgundy accents on the straps and dials provide a warm finish to the cool silver tones of the platinum. Only 150 pieces of the Crash Squelette exist, featuring a manual winding movement that appears distorted to fit the famously melted shape of the case. Skeletonised bridges take the form of Roman numerals, hammered by hand to create a raw, industrial texture that contrasts with the polished exterior.

Precision engineering defines the Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, which fits a remarkably thin 1928 MC movement into the classic tortoise-shell shape. Start, stop and reset functions live within a single button integrated into the crown, maintaining the clean lines of the original 1998 model. Looking through the sapphire caseback reveals the intricate Côtes de Genève finishing, a hallmark of traditional Swiss watchmaking. The Tank Normale completes the trio, referencing a 1934 design with a brushed seven-row platinum bracelet that adds a weighty, historic presence to the collection.

Meanwhile, aeronautical history informs the Santos de Cartier Chronograph, updated this year for those who require functionality alongside a high-fashion edge. Measuring over 47 millimetres, the large model prioritises visibility with a dial that uses alternating satin and sunray effects. Black sword-shaped hands stand out against the silvered background, while three sub-counters track elapsed time with absolute reliability. Over 70 steps are required to finish the dial alone, showing the level of commitment Cartier brings to its sportier silhouettes.

Rory Payne. Maud Rémy-Lonvis.

Cartier.

Mechanical expertise lives inside the case with the 1904-CH MC movement, designed to resist magnetic fields and temperature shifts. Reliability is a key focus here, offering a 47-hour power reserve for those moving between different environments. Owners can switch between an alligator strap and a metal bracelet in seconds using the QuickSwitch™ system, while the SmartLink™ technology allows for immediate size adjustments without the need for tools. Yellow gold and steel options provide a more traditional look, while the all-steel version paired with a rubber strap feels like a contemporary take on a pilot’s essential.

Choosing any piece from the Watches & Wonders 2026 collection means embracing a philosophy where the shape of the watch dictates the engineering. Global availability begins soon, providing collectors with the chance to own a piece of this architectural legacy. Find out more here. 

photography. courtesy of Cartier, Rory Payne, Maud Rémy-Lonvis
words. Gennaro Costanzo