fighting uniformity with fashion

Doing Fashion Graduate Show 2013, Basel
Photography / Shoji Fujii

“Fight mindless uniformity by doing deeply committed fashion.” Such is the motto for the Institute for Fashion Design Basel and the Academy of Art and Design in Switzerland, which encourages its students to question the conventional practices of fashion. To embrace this motto, on 23rd March, the school staged the fashion show ‘Doing Fashion’ in tandem with the release of a book showcasing its most talented and promising students.

This, the third annual show, featured twelve graduating students, who were asked to consider the question, “Am I doing fashion or just putting fabrics together?” The 1,200 guests comprised of current students, former students and faculty, but also designers, photographers, fashion connoisseurs and international press. Here at Schön!, we picked out three students we believe could be attracting even greater attention in the future.

Jasmine Einsele «‘UNRICHTIG’ Menswear Collection Autumn/ Winter 2013-14
Photography / Shoji Fujii

Jasmine Einsele – unlike many women in the fashion industry – decided to undertake menswear in an attempt to make unique what is often the same time after time. Athough Einsele’s collection comprises of suits and trousers, subtle variations, such as asymmetric cuts, add unique interest to each look.

Israel Mariano «BOTTOM LESS by Israel Mariano – Men’s no season!»
Photography / Shoji Fujii

Israel Mariano’s menswear also caught our eye by adding a twist to old favourites. His collection features chic hats in numerous colours, a sexy trench coat and a jacket and shrug that look as if they were weaved together like a picnic basket. Vintage style is paired with white sunglasses and fedoras, combining gangster and hippie looks of yesteryear. What stands out most is the superior craftsmanship of this impeccably put-together collection.

Nadine Burkhardt «Nadine Burckhardt, Graduate 2013»
Photography / Shoji Fujii

The show also presented the first public unveiling of Nadine Burkhardt’s work. Burkhardt uses box-like structures to beautifully frame her models and says she designs womenswear so that, “The hanging of the dress lies on the shoulders and falls through natural gravity in exactly the form determined by me.” The models were also wearing elegant gloves and shoes that featured heels formed of little balls. Burkhardt has already interned for Henrik Vibskov and has been invited to work for Maja Brix when she returns to Copenhagen after graduating.

In the future, Burkhardt hopes to connect, “…the creating of fashion with art and music or an extra environmental dimension.” It’s a fitting remark for a student from the school where, “Doing Fashion means to be involved with a human-centred approach to fashion and to participate responsibly in shaping the present and future.” Watch out for these three young talents. Who knows, they may well be shaping the future of fashion.

Visit Nadine Burkhardt online

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Words / Schuyler Sorensen
Follow her on Twitter @Skye114

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