edible architecture | arnolfo

Founded on a creed of elevated simplicity, Toklas’ exquisite menus, wines and events have distinguished the Mediterranean restaurant as a London hot spot. From launching its first edition of cuvées last year to hosting monthly wine tastings and decadent gatherings, Toklas has cultivated a steadfast community of art and food aficionados since it opened in 2021. Established by Frieze Art Fair cofounders Matthew Slotover OBE and Amanda Sharp, hints of the pair’s artistic leanings are reflected in Toklas’ decor and scrumptious treats by head chef Chris Shaw. In recognition of the restaurant’s ingenuity, we spoke to Slotover and Toklas’ head of beverages Agustina Basilico about their extensive wine list, forays into the art world and collaboration with Turner Prize-winning artist and friend Lubaina Himid CBE. 

“Amanda and I met when we were 18 and discussed opening a restaurant before we talked about doing Frieze,” begins Slotover. “It’s a fascinating industry that I wanted to learn about and hopefully contribute to.” Today, his restaurant neighbours prestigious art and culture institutions like Somerset House and The Courtauld Gallery, while simultaneously holding its own unique ties to the art world. The first clue is in the establishment’s name — a nod to writer and primo bohemian Alice B. Toklas. Together with her partner, the celebrated novelist Gertrude Stein, Alice threw intricate dinner parties in Paris for some of the greatest artists of the early 20th century. 

Toklas’ art connections deepen as you enter the restaurant and spy works by acclaimed photographer Wolfgang Tillmans and painter Ragna Bley. “The restaurant’s interior design is quite purposeful,” says Basilico, pointing to a bar wall decorated with a patchwork of art posters from the last 40 years. “From artworks to posters of exhibitions, artists and curators who are our friends, the restaurant’s design has kind of become a creative outlet for us, as much as the food itself,” says Slotover. Art and wine have long conspired with one another to enhance the human experience. 

Constantly valued for their provenance, age and quality, rare wines and art are regular headliners for auctions at renowned  houses like Christie’s and Sotheby’s. “I think both wine and art can be very obsessive areas,” says Slotover, who has often found that buying wine is like buying art from a gallery. “You’ve got the winemakers or artists, the buyers or collectors and then the distributors who guide you like galleries do with artists.” Wine also often accompanies life drawing, exhibition receptions, and other such events, punctuating the art market calendar. With this in mind, Toklas’ artistic flair feels like a welcome and natural pairing; much like a glass of Pinot Noir with an earthy mushroom risotto.  

Cradled within the circumference of the Strand, Toklas is a jewel in London’s coronet of dynamic food establishments. A pared-back, spacious bar, open kitchen and downstairs bakery greets guests. The ‘brasserie’ tone continues with a vintage parquet floor, Børge Mogensen chairs, emerald leather banquettes, open grill and menus designed by contemporary artist Allison Katz. Perhaps the star of the show is the restaurant’s own edition of cuvées — red, white and rosé — a trio collaboratively made by Toklas and Provence winemaker Valérie Courrèges. “Valérie is an incredible human,” says Basilico. “She was here two weeks ago for an annual wine tasting wearing fake fur and smoking cigars. She’s an icon.” 

For this first edition of cuvées, Toklas commissioned Turner Prize-winning artist Lubaina Himid CBE to paint colourful limited edition labels. “There’s a good history of artists designing wine bottles and menus,” says Slotover. He notes artists like David Hockney, who once designed the Neal Street restaurant menu, as well as a label for Château Mouton Rothschild. (The label has also been designed by artists Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí, Dorothea Tanning and Francis Bacon over the years). For her part, Himid used her signature palette of vibrant hues to paint rows of elegantly simplistic bottles in shades of crimson, blushing pink and citrus. “Lubaina Himid has got an incredible career,” says Basilico of the painter known for being one of the UK’s most important contributors to the British Black arts movements, and the first Black woman to win the Turner Prize. “For a female artist and female winemaker to unite like this is quite powerful in this day and age.” 

Grown from the clay and limestone soils of Cotignac, each cuvée comes with its own taste profiles and pairings. The ‘Toklas White Edition’, for instance, is reportedly fresh and supple with notes of mandarin and lemon. Each wine’s rounded character speaks of the precision and care behind its production. “We strongly believe that chemical additives are wrong, whether they’re included in the growing or making process,” says Slotova. “So, we wanted to partner with winemakers who care about sustainability, from the grapes to the long-term quality of the soil.” The cuvées sit nicely alongside Toklas’ expansive collection of largely sustainably produced natural wines. “The term natural wine is quite broad, and there are a million books by a million wine writers trying to describe what natural wine is,” says Basilico. “For me, it’s wine that is alive and clean. If you have sensitive taste buds, you can taste the minerality of the grapes’ birthplace.” Crafted using sustainable, organic, biodynamic or regenerative methods, these natural wines are marked by a • symbol on the menu. 

Together with Finnish sommelier Heidi Mäkinen, Basilico has almost tripled the wine list since she first arrived at Toklas. “Heidi has a traditional palette, and I try to push the boundaries to keep us on trend with London’s wine landscape,” she says. The result is an emporium of contemporary and traditional wines that can sometimes be served from kegs, reducing the wine’s carbon footprint by 75%. Originally from Argentina, Basilico has resisted the urge to place more than one Malbec on the menu (a traditionally full-bodied, dark-coloured red wine made from Argentina’s signature grape variety). “I’ve only added one edition,” says Basilico. “Our menu doesn’t include red meat, so there’s no need for a heavy wine.” 

While Toklas’ bakery has been noted by Timeout magazine for its breakfast viennoiserie of flaky croissants, pain au chocolat and cardamom buns, the restaurant’s Mediterranean-infused cuisine deserves its own ovation. “Simple food expertly cooked at Toklas will put you on a high – and that’s before you even get to the chips,” wrote renowned food critic Jay Rayner in 2022. Most recently, the restaurant hosted a series of citrus-inspired dinner parties showcasing the literal fruits of their partnership with Todolí Citrus Fundació, a foundation created for the research and conservation of citrus biodiversity. It grows over 500 varieties of citrus and was founded by none other than Spanish art curator and former Tate director Vicent Todolí. “Vicent met our founders Matthew and Amanda on the art circuit,” says Basilico. “When the partnership began, we formed a group of restaurants and split the fruits between all of us. This grew exponentially over three years, and now there are over 150 restaurants in London benefitting from Todolí citrus.” 

For its recent citrus-inspired dinner, Toklas paired segments of Todolí’s citrus fruits with dishes like wild sea bass crudo, radicchio and ricotta salata. The Spanish countryside also permeates through the bakery’s seasonal citrus salad; a festival of beetroots roasted and bathed in a dressing of their own juices, red wine vinegar and segments of Todolí’s blood oranges and grapefruits. Striking a balance between the dish’s aromatic sweetness and acidity is an art form in itself. “I often think chefs and artists have a lot in common,” says Slotova. “They take elements that have no value and create something fantastic. It’s partly about execution and partly intellectual.” 

Toklas’ holistic approach to its wine and artistic values will continue with a wine tasting on June 19th. The event is a meet-and-greet between Olly of Emile Wines: a London-based, female-founded wine importer and retailer offering authentic, largely biodynamic wines from Burgundy and the classic regions of France.

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words. Raegan Rubin

The Cotswolds is a very specific region within England, although, according to the newspapers, its borders seem to be expanding, including “Cotswold adjacent,” which doesn’t have quite the same ring to it. There is no doubt that there is a huge cachet to having a Cotswold address, as it grows ever more exclusive and with an ever-increasing tourist contingent, which has undoubtedly attracted a major culinary explosion throughout its borders.

The old market town of Stow-on-the-Wold is the epicentre of the smartest part of the true Cotswold experience. Stow is situated atop a hill (wold) on the old Roman road, The Fosseway, where all roads meet, connecting to the entire Cotswolds. This is where one finds The Old Butchers, family owned by the Robinsons since 2005, when they transformed an old butcher shop into the fabulous restaurant it is today. It has always been warm and inviting, but what really sets it apart from the rest is its casual approach to dining with a sublime menu that is executed to perfection.

The menu is extensive, which allows one the luxury of ordering to suit one’s mood and because of the restaurant’s size, the kitchen can expedite the wide-ranging menu. The supreme quality of the produce, whether from land to sea, has remained solidly consistent for the last 25 years. What really brings the whole experience together, other than the food, wine and cocktails… is the service, which is second to none. There is something so inviting here from the moment you enter till you sadly must leave.

The Old Butchers in Stow-in-the-Wold, in our opinion, is a true Cotswold gem.

Top Tip: Book well in advance, especially on the weekends. Dogs welcome. Go Hungry!

See more food recommendations from Schön! alive editors.

words. Karina Annesley + William Annesley + The Annelseys
photos. Karina Annesley

Sunset at the City Hall pier.
photography. Didrick Stenersen for VisitOSLO
visitoslo.com

When Norwegian cuisine comes to mind, seafood is often the first thought. With its vast coastline, abundant access to the ocean, and numerous fishing communities, Norway stands as the world’s leading seafood exporter. Conversely, the country’s rugged, mountainous landscape, limited farmland, and long, harsh winters mean that agriculture operates on a smaller scale. As a result, traditional preservation methods such as smoking, fermenting, and foraging — seen in delicacies like smoked salmon and pickled herring — date back to Viking times. These flavors are often accompanied by a shot of aquavit, a vodka-like spirit infused with dill, caraway, and other botanicals.

However, it would be a misconception to think Norwegian cuisine is limited to seafood, just as it would be inaccurate to assume the British diet consists only of fish and chips or that Americans eat nothing but burgers and fries. Oslo, in particular, boasts a vibrant and ever-evolving food scene, offering everything from street food to high-end dining, with a rich blend of international influences. 

For the first edition of Schön! alive, we spend a whirlwind 72 hours eating our way around the Norwegian capital.

Fiskeriet.
Youngstorget 2b, Oslo, Norway
fiskeriet.net
photography. Anne Andersen

In the heart of downtown Oslo, at Youngstorget Square, lies a spot that has housed a fishmonger since the 1930s. In 2010, Fiskeriet took over, committed to offering high-quality, sustainable seafood — both as a specialty shop and a laid-back eatery. The knowledgeable and passionate staff are eager to help, whether guiding customers through fresh seafood selections at the counter or recommending dishes from the menu, which is intentionally simple and seasonal. That said, a few staples remain constant: the rich, flavourful Creamy Fish Soup (made with the catch of the day) and the crispy, perfectly executed Fish and Chips — both of which we sampled and highly recommend. Fresh prawns, oysters, and mussels are also always on hand. Portions are generous, and for those staying in Oslo a little longer, there’s the option to take home some of that freshness and flavour.

Ludo.
Vibes Gate 11a
Sørengkaia 138, Oslo, Norway
restaurantludo.no
photography. Haakon Hoseth

Coucou.
Henrik Ibsens gate 60c, Oslo, Norway
brasseriecoucou.no
photography. Haakon Hoseth
opposite
Hedone.
Skovveien 15 Oslo, Norway
hedone.no
photography. Haakon Hoseth

Restaurant Ludo proudly claims to serve the best stone-baked pizzas in Oslo. The menu features Italian staples like Capricciosa and Calzone, as well as the 2024 award-winning ‘Best Nordic Margherita,’ which elevates the classic with basil-infused dough, tomato confit, and crispy fried basil. In addition to traditional options, Ludo offers a ‘modern pizza’ selection, including a decadent carbonara-inspired pie topped with truffle cream. For those seeking Nordic fusion flavors, unique creations such as Smoked Halibut with béchamel, Grana Padano, lemon, and parsley, or King Crab with tomatoes, mozzarella, fennel, tarragon, and chili oil provide an inventive twist on the classic dish.

Restaurant Ludo has two locations — one in Vibes Gate and another in Sørenga — but if you’re looking to explore more, you can also visit its sister restaurants under the Folket restaurant group, co-founded by former Fat Duck chef James Maxwell-Stewart. For classic French cuisine, Brasserie Coucou offers dishes like Moules Frites cooked with Pernod, garlic, and herbs, or Confit of Duck served with kale, baby carrots, cherries, and mushroom foam. Hedone, on the other hand, specializes in modern Asian flavors, while Cru reflects Maxwell-Stewart’s British roots, blending influences from French and Nordic cuisine. At Cru, you’ll find a relaxed wine bar downstairs serving snacks and an informal à la carte menu, while upstairs, the fine dining restaurant offers seasonal five-course tasting menus. Expect elegant dishes such as Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with champagne or a refined take on brunch with Langoustine Benedict.

Paradis Gelateria.
Tjuvholmen kiosk,
Strandpromenaden 2, Oslo, Norway
iskrembar.no
photography. Didrick Stenersen
for VisitOSLO

Alfonso Pepe and Haron Ascanio Cazzaniga first crossed paths in an Oslo ice cream shop, both in search of an authentic taste of home. Their shared passion led to the opening of Paradis Gelateria in 2012, bringing traditional Italian gelato, sorbet, cakes, and coffee to the city. Now boasting multiple locations near Oslo’s main attractions, Paradis is known for its rich, creamy gelato made fresh daily using time-honored Italian techniques. There are no artificial colorants — each vibrant flavor comes straight from natural ingredients. While key elements like Sorrento lemons and Piedmont hazelnuts are imported from Italy, the gelateria also takes advantage of Norway’s high-quality milk and seasonal fruits. Vegan, lactose-free, and gluten-free options ensure there’s something for everyone.

Just a short walk from Fiskeriet, an understated, barely branded shopfront hides one of Oslo’s best-kept secrets — Himkok, currently ranked No. 10 on the World’s 50 Best Bars list. More than just a speakeasy, this award-winning bar has played a key role in revitalizing Norway’s cocktail scene. Behind its modest entrance lies a multi-level space featuring an in-house distillery producing aquavit, gin, and vodka, alongside a laboratory, cider bar, expansive outdoor terrace, and even a barber shop. One of its standout innovations is cocktails on tap — something owner Erk Potur insists isn’t a shortcut, but a way to maintain impeccable quality and consistency.

The cocktail menu, which changes annually, highlights Nordic ingredients, seasonality, and sustainability, always pushing the boundaries of mixology. The latest theme, Beats & Sips, is a collaboration with Sony Music Norway, pairing signature drinks with curated playlists from top Norwegian artists. In true Himkok fashion, cocktails such as Sea Buckthorn, Thyme, and Quince celebrate a single ingredient, while Carrot Cake offers a creative spin on the classic dessert.

Himkok.
Storgata 27, Oslo, Norway
himkok.no
photography. Anne Andersen

The Munch Museum.
Edvard Munchs Plass 1, Oslo, Norway
munchmuseet.no
photography. Ivar Kvaal
image. Courtesy of The Munch Museum/VisitOSLO

No visit to Oslo is complete without a boat trip on the fjord, offering breathtaking views of the city’s harbor, the striking Opera House, and the modern Munch Museum. Most tours take you beyond the city, gliding past scenic shorelines, tranquil bays, and charming islets dotted with summer homes, bathhouses, and lighthouses, all set against the dramatic backdrop of distant mountains. Some cruises also include a stop at the Bygdøy peninsula, home to several of Oslo’s most renowned museums.

With over 70 years of experience, Båtservice Sightseeing and its historic wooden sailing ships have become an iconic part of Oslo’s waterfront. Tours run year-round, but summer offers a special treat — a three-hour evening cruise featuring a traditional Norwegian shrimp buffet, where fresh shrimp and prawns are served with bread, butter, mayonnaise, and lemon. For a more atmospheric experience, some evening cruises include live jazz and blues. While blankets are provided, the fjord air can be brisk, so dressing warmly is recommended. For contemporary art lovers, the Astrup Fearnley Museet is a must-visit, showcasing one of Europe’s most significant private collections alongside rotating temporary exhibitions.

Within the museum complex, VentiVenti offers a dining experience that fuses Nordic ingredients with the Italian maritime influences of its Sicilian Head Chef, Giuseppe Maccarrone, creating a unique culinary blend in a stunning waterside setting. At first glance, the menu may seem familiar — pizzas, pastas, tiramisu, and affogato, as expected. But don’t be fooled. This is elevated Italian cuisine, where seasonal ingredients and fresh flavors take center stage.

Take the winter menu, for example: the Chef’s Bruschetta transforms a classic starter with burrata stuffed with shrimp, cherry tomatoes, and anchovies. The Agnello del Bronte features lamb chops coated in a pistachio and mustard crust, pan-fried to perfection, and served with crispy sweet potato, fried potatoes, and a rich port wine sauce. And for dessert? Sapori dell’Etna, a decadent sponge cake soaked in Strega saffron liqueur, layered with ricotta, candied fruit, crumbled cannolo biscuits, and a hint of lemon zest. Tempted yet? Beyond the menu, the setting is just as impressive. The outdoor terrace offers stunning views of the fjord and the Tjuvholmen Sculpture Park, while inside, floor-to-ceiling windows ensure diners can soak in the scenery no matter the season.

For another quintessentially Norwegian experience, head to SALT, a venue unlike any other. More than just a sauna spot — though it does boast 12 of them — SALT is a cultural hub. You can book a private sauna for four to six people, join a larger communal session accommodating up to 100, and cool off in freshwater pools, outdoor showers, or, for the bold, a dip in the fjord. But SALT is more than relaxation; it’s an ever-evolving nomadic art project. Year-round, its stages host a dynamic mix of concerts, festivals, comedy shows, theater, drag performances, and literary readings. The venue also features multiple bars, an expansive outdoor seating area with space for over 800 guests, and a rotating selection of street food stalls serving flavors from around the world. For a more intimate experience, the cozy Naustet café offers coffee and cocktails, or you can book a private outdoor space with a fire pit, warm blankets, and furs for a unique waterside barbecue.

VentiVenti.
Strandpromenaden 2, Oslo, Norway
ventiventi.no
image. Courtesy of VentiVenti
opposite
SALT.
Langkaia 1, Oslo, Norway
salted.no
photography. Magne Håheim
image. Courtesy of SALT/VisitOSLO

Grand Hotel.
Karl Johans gt. 31 Oslo, Norway
grand.no
photography. Didrick Stenersen for VisitOSLO

At the corner of Karl Johan and Rosenkrantz streets stands the Grande Dame of Oslo’s hotels, steeped in over 150 years of rich history. Originally built as a private residence around 1840, the building was transformed into the Grand Hotel Oslo in 1874 by confectioner Julius Fritzner, back when the city was still known as Kristiana. The first section to open was the Grand Café, which quickly became a favorite gathering spot for bohemians and intellectuals. Throughout the 1890s, renowned playwright Henrik Ibsen could be seen walking to the café twice a day, where an armchair was permanently reserved for him — his second home, in many ways.

In 1886, the hotel unveiled what was then Kristiana’s most spectacular ballroom, where guests dined to the sounds of the city’s finest orchestras beneath opulent ceilings and murals painted by scenic artist Wilhelm Krogh, a close friend of Fritzner. Over the years, the ballroom hosted lavish carnivals, grand banquets, and soirées attended by academics, diplomats, and royalty, cementing its status as the city’s social epicenter.

While the hotel has undergone extensive renovations, its historic charm has been carefully preserved. Decorative ceilings and murals have been restored or recreated, and the original Thonet chairs have been meticulously refurbished. Yet, modernity is embraced in the open kitchen, where chefs craft dishes using Nordic ingredients with international flair. Expect refined creations such as Halibut Ceviche with mint pesto, grapefruit, fresh peas, and pine nuts, or Beets with charred leek mayonnaise, crushed pistachios, and Västerbotten cheese.

For those seeking relaxation, the award-winning Artesia Spa offers a wellness sanctuary with a heated pool, steam bath, sauna, infrared cabin, and a range of rejuvenating treatments. Do note that, as with most hotel spas in Oslo, advance booking is required, and access incurs a fee for both non-residents and hotel guests.

Hotel Continental.
The Leading Hotels of the World.
Stortingsgata 24/26, Oslo , Norway
hotelcontinental.no
images. Courtesy of Hotel Continental

Another of Oslo’s historic gems, Hotel Continental, has been a symbol of elegance since its opening in 1900. A member of the Leading Hotels of the World, this five-star establishment began with just 30 rooms and a restaurant and has remained in the same family for four generations. In 2018, it underwent its most ambitious renovation yet, blending contemporary design and art with antique furnishings across its communal spaces and 151 individually designed rooms and suites.

Among its dining options, the most iconic is Theatercaféen. Situated just opposite the National Theatre, it quickly became a hub for actors and artists in the early 20th century. Even today, its celebrity legacy endures — upon entering, guests are met with a wall of signed photographs from famous patrons, including Bono, Yoko Ono, Meryl Streep, and Elton John. Inside, the bustling dining room boasts vaulted ceilings, large arched windows, and an atmosphere brimming with history. While the café received a modern (and regrettable) facelift in 1940, third-generation owner Ellen Brochmann lovingly restored its original Art Nouveau splendor in 1971.

The bar is an excellent spot for solo diners or a pre-dinner cocktail, and it’s hard to resist the oysters or the Antonius Oscietra caviar, served with waffles, red onions, and sour cream. The seasonal lunch and dinner menus showcase refined Nordic flavors, with recent highlights including Rack of Reindeer with mushroom-celery root purée, lingonberries, and porcini sauce; Pan-fried Wild Halibut with flower sprouts, fennel, and lobster bisque; and a creative Beetroot Tartare with chèvre from Haukeli, hazelnuts, and tarragon.

The Thief.
Landgangen 1, Oslo, Norway
thethief.com
image. Courtesy of The Thief

If you’ve already taken a boat tour, you might be familiar with the transformed district of Tjuvholmen (Thief Island), once a haven for smugglers and scoundrels but now a hotspot for art, design, and luxury. At the heart of this transformation is The Thief, an ultra-modern boutique hotel offering Nordic luxury with a cosmopolitan edge. From the moment you arrive, it’s clear that art is at the core of The Thief’s identity. Outside, Antony Gormley’s sculpture Draw sets the tone, while the lobby welcomes guests with Richard Prince’s Untitled (Cowboy). Even the restaurant houses a Damien Hirst ‘Spin’ painting, complementing the sleek, moody interiors and designer furnishings. The rooms match this aesthetic, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows, balconies, Geneva sound systems, and in deluxe rooms and suites, stunning fjord views.

While the hotel is enticing enough to keep you indoors, its prime location next to the Astrup Fearnley Museum, Tjuvholmen Sculpture Park, and the lively Aker Brygge district makes it worth stepping outside. That said, before venturing out, a meal at the hotel’s signature restaurant, The Thief, is a must. Open for brunch, lunch, and dinner, the restaurant stays true to Norwegian flavors while embracing international influences. Expect refined dishes like Aquavit-Cured Salmon with pine shots or The Thief Tartare, a bold take on venison, served with sourdough, egg cream, capers, mustard, shallots, and Macallan 18 Y.O.

The desserts at The Thief are equally captivating. For instance, their White Chocolate Mousse, spiced with Szechuan pepper and orange, is paired with cherry coulis and hot wine gel, offering a delightful and unexpected twist. Another standout is their Nordic organic breakfast buffet, one of the finest we’ve encountered. It offers a wide range of delicious options, but be sure to sample Brunost (brown cheese), a Norwegian national treasure. Made from whey, this cheese owes its distinctive color and sweetness to the caramelization of milk sugars.

While much of central Oslo is easily walkable, if you’re not keen on strolling, it’s best to skip the taxis (due to parking restrictions and one-way systems that can make them inefficient) and instead make use of the Oslo public transport network. The Oslo Pass is a fantastic option, offering unlimited travel on trams, subways, buses, and public ferries. Plus, it grants free entry to 30 museums and attractions, including Astrup Fearnley and the MUNCH Museum, along with discounts on other experiences like the Båtservice boat tours.

Båtservice Sightseeing.
Rådhusbrygge 3, Oslo, Norway
photography. Didrick Stenersen for VisitOSLO

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words. Huma Humayun
special thanks. Mathilde Rübberdt @ VisitOSLO + Stein-Inge Århus @ Astrup Fearnley Museet