
Marine 5517 by Breguet.
Breguet’s relationship with the sea dates back to 1815, when Abraham-Louis Breguet was appointed Watchmaker to the French Royal Navy. More than two centuries later, that maritime history continues to shape the Maison’s ‘Marine’ collection, which returns for 2026 with fresh interpretations of two familiar references: the Marine 5517 and the Marine Chronographe 5527. This time, however, the focus is on colour, dial craftsmanship and the small nautical details that have long distinguished the range.
The Marine 5517 is the more understated of the two, built around a 40 mm case and a three-hand display with the date positioned at six o’clock. Its most noticeable update lies in the dial, where the Maison’s hand-guilloché ‘Quai de l’Horloge’ motif creates a wave-like pattern across a gold base. The name refers to the historic Paris address where Breguet established his workshop, while the design draws on the contours of the Île de la Cité and Île Saint-Louis. Three versions are available: 18-carat white gold with an ice-blue dial, 18-carat rose gold paired with black and titanium with a subtle blue gradient. Each features Breguet Arabic numerals, the Maison’s characteristic apple-shaped hands and a gold appliqué at twelve o’clock.

Marine 5517 by Breguet.

Marine 5517 by Breguet.
The sportier Marine Chronographe 5527 takes the same decorative approach into a 42.3 mm case, introducing a flyback chronograph complication. Its layout places the chronograph-minute counter at three o’clock and the small-seconds display at nine, with the date again positioned at six. Here, the dial combinations differ from those of the 5517: white gold and rose gold are paired with blue-gradient dials, while the titanium version features a grey gradient. The guilloché work brings continuity between the two references without making their personalities identical.
Both models share further details inspired by navigation. The tip of the seconds hand on the 5517 and the central chronograph hand on the 5527 form a letter B, referencing the maritime ‘Bravo’ flag, while the crown guard evokes the movement of waves. Turn either watch over and the sapphire caseback reveals a gold oscillating weight inspired by a ship’s rudder, extending the nautical references into the movement itself.

Marine Chronographe 5527 by Breguet.

Marine Chronographe 5527 by Breguet.
Under the dial, the 5517 houses the self-winding Calibre 777A, delivering a 55-hour power reserve, while the chronograph uses the Calibre 582QA, with a 48-hour reserve and a silicon balance spring — and on top of that, they’re both are water-resistant to 100 metres. Each metal and dial combination can be paired with a rubber strap decorated with a pattern echoing the dial or a matching metal bracelet, extending the collection’s mix of maritime function and traditional watchmaking into its finishing details.
The updated Marine 5517 and Marine Chronographe 5527 are available in white gold, rose gold and titanium, with the new dial treatments bringing a different character to each material. Discover more here.
photography. courtesy of Breguet
words. Gennaro Costanzo