
Chanel.
Chanel is officially the hottest brand on the planet right now – at least according to the Q1 2026 Lyst Index, which dropped just in time to give Matthieu Blazy’s debut Cruise 2026/27 collection a victory lap before it even hit the runway. The timing couldn’t have been better for a show that felt like a homecoming, given the historic location.
Staged on the Basque coast in Biarritz – the site of Gabrielle Chanel’s first couture shop in 1915 – the presentation, titled ‘Sous le salon la plage,’ plunged straight into the deep end. Blazy took the concept of finding the beach beneath the salon and ran with it, dragging the entire front row – including a backless gown-wearing Nicole Kidman, A$AP Rocky (clutching a bag adorned with miniature Mary Janes) and Tilda Swinton – out of their comfort zones and into the surf.

Chanel.
Look one wasted no time, tackling the famous 1926 ‘little black dress’ head-on. Reverting to the original archival sketch, Blazy stripped away the large back bow and cleverly reconstructed it as a clutch. He dubbed it the ultimate “revenge dress,” a garment that once made high-society women covet the functional uniforms of shopgirls. That utilitarian streak rippled through the daytime looks, where French workwear crashed into haute luxury: classic marinière sailor tops and bleu de travail jackets were elevated into coastal staples, with Basque stripes acting as the lifeline pulling the eclectic mix together.
As the show progressed, functionality dissolved into pure subaquatic fiction. The siren energy teased earlier in the week materialised in full force, with models drifting through the Casino Municipal in shimmering fish-scale paillettes that caught the Atlantic light. Fluid silks and soft beaded knits mimicked ocean currents, while springy tweeds arrived saturated in seafoam, pitch black and deep navy. One standout gown appeared to be constructed from crocheted coral, a complex web of open-knit embroidery and pearls that moved like a living reef.

Chanel.

Chanel.
Others featured ‘nets,’ delicate mesh overlays that trapped the body in a glamorous catch, proving that Blazy can make even fishing gear look like haute couture. There were even cheeky references to British seaside culture, with newsprint fabrics inspired by fish and chips wrappers adding a graphic punch to the fluidity.
Similarly, accessories embraced the maritime fantasy without losing their sense of humour. Waterproof flap bags and giant striped beach panniers swung alongside small valise handbags, while a pala carrier made a surprise cameo. At one point, Mona Tougaard stormed the runway wrestling a straw tote so ludicrously capacious it felt like a piece built for someone packing their entire life, not just a beach towel.

Chanel.

Chanel.
But the real conversation starter was at ground level. Alongside the elegant Art Deco pumps (already tipped to be the next viral shoe), Blazy introduced ‘barefoot heel caps,’ that is, shoes that slip onto the back of the foot, leaving the toes entirely exposed. It’s a look primed for anyone wanting to flaunt a strong Achilles tendon on the promenade. Even the boots refused to play it safe. Thigh-high rubberised rain boots shortly appeared on the runway, featuring a distinct contrast cap-toe and a sleek black trim that grounded the otherwise stark silhouette. Blazy added his own twist with a pop of colour on the sole, a subtle ‘Blazy-ism’ that gave the luxury finish a slightly alien, futuristic edge.
With shell earrings pressing close to lobes and the double C logo woven into the architecture of the clothes rather than stamped on as an afterthought, Blazy has successfully submerged the salon. He’s left us with a wardrobe fit for a glamorous mythological shipwreck, and given the Lyst rankings, it’s one everyone will be fighting to salvage.
Discover the Chanel Cruise 2026/27 collection here.
photography. courtesy of Chanel
words. Gennaro Costanzo























































































































































