cé la vi london | modern asian dining

Paddington Square has dedicated the last few years to transforming the skyline above the station into a gleaming glass beacon. Taking the lift up to the 17th floor reveals CÉ LA VI, a restaurant bringing an undeniable sense of occasion to West London since late 2025. Part of a globally celebrated hospitality brand, with outposts in Singapore, Tokyo and Dubai, the London debut carries the same acclaimed energy that has made its siblings legendary. Executive Chef Elton Zaka, a veteran with a 19-year career spanning Sushisamba, Nobu and Amazónico, arrived here aiming to deliver modern Asian dishes that are “expressive and impeccably executed.”

Schön! took a warm lunch break as the first sun-soaked days of the season finally broke over the British capital, diving into a tasting menu that balances refined gastronomy with a cheeky sense of play.

Visually, the restaurant acts as a gateway to the vibrant corners of Tokyo or Singapore, with crimson lighting and dark wooden finishes creating a chic atmosphere. Sitting by the window guarantees panoramic views across the city, made even better by the arrival of their open-air Suntory terrace, a Japanese spirits-focused pop-up arriving just in time for the spring months. 

Upstairs on the 18th floor, a more intimate Club Lounge and private dining room cater to those seeking a secluded evening under the stars. Golden light spills across the bar as DJs set the tempo for the evening, especially during Soul Sessions on Thursdays when a full live band fills the room with R&B and disco favourites. Wednesday nights offer a different vibe, transforming the rooftop into a jazz-filled retreat with reimagined classics from the Great American Songbook.

The tasting menu began with a round of drinks to settle in. An Easy Paloma brought a brilliant, non-alcoholic refreshment to the table, while the Imperial Cosmo added a bright, fruit-forward kick. The wine programme is equally thoughtful, offering a curated journey that feels unpretentious yet perfectly calibrated; for the lunch menu, this translates into a crisp Undurraga Chardonnay from Chile’s Central Valley to lift the starters, followed by a velvety Undurraga Carménère that brings an earthy warmth to the heavier mains.

Tom yum salt dusted the edamame, waking up the palate immediately before the hot starters appeared, showcasing the breadth of the general menu, which also features highlights like Wagyu Beef Gyoza and Black Cod Croquettes. Seafood and meat options show off the kitchen’s technical skill. Shrimp tempura arrives with a crunch that shatters to reveal succulent, sweet meat inside. Beef Tataki offers a rich, seared exterior with a meltingly soft centre, while the Chilean sea bass falls away in thick, buttery flakes. For the vegetarian guest, vegetable crystal dumplings offered a softer, delicate bite, heavily contrasting the punchy, seared notes of the beef tataki.

Moving into the main event required a strategic approach to side dishes. A rich, deeply savoury black truffle ‘sushi rice’ risotto felt luxurious, using the stickier grain to absorb the Parmesan mousse beautifully. Freshly shaved truffle brings an aroma that fills the air the moment the bowl hits the table. 

Ordering French fries alongside a delicate piece of Chilean sea bass might seem like a rogue choice, but the salty crunch worked wonderfully against the buttery, flaky fish. Kimchi fried rice brings a fermented punch, topped with crisp onions and red chilli for an extra layer of fire that works well alongside the milder fish. 

 

Desserts are where the ‘joie de vivre’ philosophy truly shines. Vanilla and bay leaf panna cotta served with a curry crumble and spiced roasted pineapple offered a brilliant balance of sweet and aromatic notes. The absolute highlight arrived in the form of a dark chocolate and shiitake cremeux, where the earthy mushroom surprisingly elevated the rich cocoa. The real secret, however, was hidden within the chocolate: popping sugar. As the cremeux melted, the sudden, playful crackle of the Pop Rocks on the tongue mimicked the childhood thrill of fizzy sweets. 

CÉ LA VI London leaves guests with the feeling of being elevated, everywhere. It feels like a secret shared between friends – one where you can watch the world from the clouds and end the afternoon with the literal crackle of magic on your tongue.

Find out more here.

 

photography. courtesy of CÉ LA VI
words. Gennaro Costanzo