carne bollente ss26 | give me a break

Antonin Tron stepped into the spotlight for his debut at Balmain with a collection that felt like a breath of fresh air circulating through the storied French house. Taking over a role held by Olivier Rousteing for more than a decade presented a significant hurdle, yet Tron arrived with a clear sense of direction. For the Autumn/Winter 2026 season, he abandoned the heavy armour of the past in favour of what he calls “minimal opulence.” 

The runway was draped in soft white fabric, creating a serene environment that prioritised the architecture of the clothes over any distracting bells and whistles. Tron spent months digging through the archives to find a way to honour Pierre Balmain while speaking to a modern audience that craves a stripped-back aesthetic.

His research led him to the late 1940s, a period where Pierre Balmain focused on the strength of the female silhouette. One of the first models out wore a black leather peplum jacket paired with trousers tapered at the ankle. This look nodded to the house’s early clientele, specifically the first female pilot for Air France. 

Tron also leaned into bold animal motifs, inspired by archival photos of Pierre Balmain’s own zebra-print-heavy Parisian apartment. Blown-up zebra patterns and leopard jacquards appeared on oversized coats, bringing a wild energy to the otherwise controlled tailoring. The designer played with the idea of hidden details, showing long-sleeved dresses with necklines that plunged to reveal peek-a-boo bandeaus in zebra print.

The textures throughout the show offered a lovely variety of sensations. Leather appeared so soft it looked like it could be poured over the frame, while crushed velvet and heavy silks provided a sense of depth. A selection of plush shearling items introduced an extra layer of decadence, wrapping the models in cocoon-like warmth. A striking scale-textured jacket and skirt combo gave the impression of mythical outerwear, completely reimagining how animalistic influences can be translated into modern luxury.

A palette of deep olive and midnight black was frequently interrupted by flashes of bright citrus and chartreuse, giving the garments a bit of an acidic kick. The construction focused on the way jersey could be twisted and wrapped to celebrate the body, avoiding any stiff or rigid structures. To anchor the voluminous layers and flowing fabrics, Tron utilised tiny belts cinching the waist, ensuring the natural curves of the wearer were always defined.

Accessories brought a touch of the outdoors into this high-fashion setting. Influenced by a personal love for surfing, the creative director designed clutches that looked like luxury versions of waterproof dry bags. Footwear included boots covered in fuzzy leather and pumps with twisted heels that added a bit of height without looking overworked. Chunky metallic jewellery and oversized earrings rounded out the looks, providing a metallic edge to the draped fabrics. 

This first outing for Tron proved that he has a clear vision for the label, one that finds beauty in the purity of a well-cut sleeve and the richness of a simple drape.

Discover the Autumn/Winter 2026 collection here.

photography. courtesy of Balmain
words. Gennaro Costanzo

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez approached their second collection for Loewe as an infinite game where the joy of creation never truly ends. They found a kindred spirit in the artist Cosima von Bonin, whose wry humour and soft sculptures of sea creatures and canines sat perched upon giant shoe boxes as spectators. This collaboration turned the runway into a playground of rigorous experimentation, blending the sun-drenched physicality of their debut with a more layered, nuanced curiosity. Every piece served as a celebration of craft pushed to its limit through industrial innovation.

For Autumn/Winter 2026, a liquid-like physicality defined many of the garments, particularly the slip dresses and pyjama tops that appeared as 3D-printed replicas cast in latex. These pieces had a viscous, slick quality that caught the light with every step, mimicking the flow of fabric while remaining strangely frozen in time. Coats underwent a similar transformation, with sleeves, pockets and fastenings meticulously moulded to create a trompe l’oeil effect. This play on weight continued with parkas and scarves that quite literally inflated with air. Using a specialised laser-cutting and bonding process, these volumes were sealed with airtight seams to create a silhouette that looked as light as a balloon.

Innovation extended into the knitwear and leatherwork, where traditional patterns were reimagined through unexpected mediums. Bouclé coats were not made of wool but from looped lacquered leather, while tartan sweaters and dresses were knitted using incredibly thin leather yarn. Pastel-dyed shearling was transformed into corduroy trousers and coats, with the edges gradient-trimmed to look like the meticulous grooming of a poodle. This sense of play was even present in the headwear, with triple-hooded hats on parkas that could be worn stacked one on top of the other.

Accessories celebrated the 180th anniversary of the house with a reimagined Amazona 180 bag. This icon appeared in a massive duffel size and even as a delicate porcelain recreation inspired by the hand-painted motifs of von Bonin. The new Whisker bag made its debut, offering a graceful combination of a structured top handle and a supple, slouchy body in glazed calfskin. On the feet, rubber-moulded sneakers and Dive slingbacks added a functional element to the vibrant, optimistic palette. 

The philosophy behind the collection drew heavily from James P. Carse’s 1986 book, ‘Finite and Infinite Games: A Vision of Life as Play and Possibility.’ McCollough and Hernandez used Carse’s distinction to frame fashion not as a win-loss industry or a race toward a finish line, but as a continuous, experimental process. By treating the runway as an open field for endless creative play, they ensured that the purpose of the work was simply to keep the game going.

Discover the Autumn/Winter 2026 collection here.

photography. courtesy of Loewe
words. Gennaro Costanzo

At Off-White, streetwear is never an excuse to be too casual. For the Autumn/Winter 2026 collection, creative director Ib Kamara continues to steer the brand toward a future where everyday wear and high-concept design exist in total harmony. The presentation felt like an invitation to a global party, celebrating a mix of cultures through a lens of modern utility. 

Vibrant shades of cobalt blue, safety orange and neon green popped against the antique backdrop of a Parisian school courtyard. Kamara experimented with proportions, featuring a baggy blue tracksuit, a zip-up hoodie and gigantic puffer jackets paired with ultra-wide cargo trousers. These bottoms appeared to be made from repurposed parachutes, complete with trailing straps and heavy metal clips.

The influence of the legendary Miles Davis and the fearless Betty Davis pulsed through the garments, serving as the core inspiration for the season. Kamara drew heavily from the 1970s jazz-fusion era, specifically referencing the 1973 album ‘Bitches Brew’ to create a mood of soulful disruption. Tailoring remains a central focus, especially for coats and blazers that appear in sombre shades of black and grey. A surprising twist emerged in the sleeves, where long, detachable puffy tubes took over the arms and reached all the way to the knuckles. The opening look introduced a patchwork trench coat crafted from washed brown suede, detailed with a bright red logo that stood out against the earthy tones.

Sensuality played a major role this season, with delicate lace details appearing in unexpected places. Brightly coloured lace was layered over light nylon dresses, creating a playful nod to the lingerie-inspired stage looks worn by Betty Davis. These dresses draped over the body like a second skin, offering a soft counterpoint to the industrial technical fabrics found elsewhere in the collection. Polka dots also made a reappearance through the signature Meteor eyelets of the brand. These circular cut-outs punctured everything from fitted tops to flared denim, turning a classic pattern into a tool for modern exploration.

Footwear added another layer of drama to the silhouettes. High lace-up stilettos in saturated hues of red and yellow wrapped around the ankles to finish the look with an unapologetic elegance. These were occasionally swapped for chunky, utility-driven boots that felt ready for a future city. The accessories remained bold, with large frames and graphic bags that mirrored the playful, childlike energy Kamara aimed to capture throughout the show.

Discover the Autumn/Winter 2026 collection here.

photography. courtesy of Off-White
words. Gennaro Costanzo