
James Cochrane.
By Malene Birger is back. Under the creative direction of Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt in conjunction with Head of Design, Sydney Roark, after a six-year absence, one of Denmark’s leading brands has returned to the runway. Since the eponymous designer left the helm of the brand she built out of her home more than two decades ago, for a simpler life as an artist, the quiet luxury empire seemed to be involved in a game of musical chairs. Re-envisioned by a revolving door of creative directors, each offering their own version of By Malene Birger’s next chapter.
After the swift exit of former Head of Design, Søren Le Schmidt last summer, Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt was tasked with finding a worthy successor. Originally from California and educated in Italy, Roark had already spent five years on the By Malene Birger design team, playing a pivotal role in bringing the brand into its current era.

James Cochrane.

James Cochrane.
An era of tassels dancing on coats, fabrics playing in the wind and black broderie anglaise peeking out from sleeves. While these clothes were meant to re-introduce the tried-and-true affections of established house codes, they were also tick marks of Roark’s bona fide design skills, not aiming to reinvent the wheel but perhaps create a generational bridge. A collection of staples to be passed down and re-fashioned in the youthful sheen of a gold dress, for example, kissed by the sun at golden hour. The collection’s colour palette of gold, white, blush, beige, brown and black was in keeping with the brand’s bohemian meets polished oeuvre. Although I think this new By Malene Birger woman may be more fête than free love.

James Cochrane.
Guests were bused out to Friheden, a private park and estate, roughly thirty minutes outside of Copenhagen, and were greeted by champagne and handwritten seating cards, set along a winding gravel path alongside the splendour of vast manicured greenery and the quiet tranquillity of a nearby pond. Models fittingly walked to sounds by DJ Christian D’Or, including Caribou’s ‘Sun’ just before sunset, with Danish supermodel Mona Tougaard closing the show.
Officially untitled, the Birger team crowned the collection a homecoming. I think it fits.
Discover the Spring/Summer 2027 collection here.
photography. courtesy of James Cochrane
words. Malcolm Thomas




























































