Timothy Schaumburg for FREITAG.
There’s a long-standing assumption that upcycled industrial materials are destined to remain stuck in a world of utilitarian design, making it a challenge to bring sustainability into the more elevated end of the fashion market. FREITAG, however, is rethinking that equation with ‘REFERENCE’, a new generation of bags that brings its longstanding approach to discarded materials into a more refined aesthetic, without erasing the stories that make each piece unique.
Founded in Zurich in 1993, FREITAG built its identity around an unlikely accessory material: used truck tarpaulins. Brothers Daniel and Markus Freitag, searching for a durable, water-resistant bag suited to their cycling commutes, found inspiration in the heavy goods vehicles passing through the industrial neighbourhood around Hardbrücke. Their first creation, the F13 TOP CAT messenger bag, was made in their shared apartment using retired tarpaulins, discarded bicycle inner tubes and car seat belts.
That history remains visible across the streets of Zurich. The brothers’ original neighbourhood has since become home to the brand’s striking flagship tower, constructed from 19 recycled shipping containers beside Hardbrücke station in 2006. The company later moved its headquarters and production facilities to Nœrd, an industrial complex in Zurich-Oerlikon, where the transformation of truck tarpaulins continues. From the streets that inspired the first bag to a container-built retail landmark and a working factory, FREITAG has made its surroundings an integral part of its identity.
Timothy Schaumburg for FREITAG.
Timothy Schaumburg for FREITAG.
Now, more than three decades after its beginnings, the brand is revisiting a chapter of its own. First introduced in 2009 and discontinued in 2019, ‘REFERENCE’ returns with four new updated designs. Product designer Anne Bachmann, a 16-year veteran at the brand, led the new generation, developing a collection that places greater emphasis on form, finishing and versatility. “Used tarpaulins have no reason to hide their stories. Each one of them has a raw elegance of its own. And ‘REFERENCE’ puts that firmly at the centre,” she explains.
For Bachmann, the design process involved looking both outside and inside FREITAG’s own world. Working through initial sketches and research graphs, she found an important visual reference in an editorial featuring Sandra Hüller, whose rawness helped shape the aesthetic direction of the new line. Other inspiration came directly from the factory floor, where an industrial metal adjustment hook used on heavy-duty shelving caught her attention. Reimagined as a custom magnetic clasp with punched FREITAG branding, the component became the defining hardware detail across REFERENCE, carrying a piece of the brand’s industrial surroundings into its most refined collection to date.
FREITAG.
FREITAG.
The collection’s pre-launch celebration took place at the Nœrd factory, where guests were guided through the production process by contemporary dancers. As washing machines rumbled and tarpaulins moved from one stage of preparation to the next, performers transformed the practical business of making a bag into a live exploration of movement. Curated in collaboration with House of Intuition, with scenography by Marie Matusz, the evening featured a performance by Anna Chiedza Spörri and The Collective, alongside music, food and further artistic interventions. Thomas Wakeford, Creative Director, and Peter Hollenstein described the thinking behind the campaign as an attempt to “channel this feeling of movement through contemporary dance.”
The four bags each take a different approach to everyday use. R201 ELLY is a compact crossbody designed for essentials, with a magnetic closure, adjustable strap and enough room for a small umbrella or 500 ml bottle. R202 BATES is the more capacious day-to-night option, with a zipped main compartment, adjustable magnetic closure and space for a 13-inch laptop. Its wide shoulder strap can be supplemented with a detachable crossbody strap.
For those who prefer to carry considerably more, R203 MAZIE is an oversized tote whose fold-in sides change its shape and volume, accompanied by a detachable pouch for smaller belongings. R204 NAN, meanwhile, is a more compact baguette silhouette, with a zipped compartment, external slip pocket and straps that can be carried over the shoulder, over the elbow or in the hand.
Timothy Schaumburg for FREITAG.
Timothy Schaumburg for FREITAG.
Across the collection, trapezoid shapes, carefully placed seams and a magnetic clasp inspired by an industrial shelving adjustment hook establish a shared visual language. The hardware bears punched FREITAG branding, while the bags’ restrained colours — white, silver, red and blue, alongside a limited black edition — allow the individual markings of the tarpaulins to remain visible. Each piece is unique, its scratches, creases and faded lines recording a journey that began long before it reached its new owner.
The attention to longevity extends to the repair kit supplied with every bag. Made from the same tarpaulin as its accompanying design, the detachable pouch contains a piece of lining and the original sewing thread, giving owners materials that can be used to repair the bag years later. Once those contents are removed, the pouch remains useful for storing cards, keys and other small items.
The production model has evolved, too. The new bags are manufactured with European partners, including in Portugal and Bulgaria, while selected custom-made accessories continue to be produced in Switzerland. At the Nœrd factory, FREITAG processes used tarpaulins, prepares them for production and reuses water wherever possible; its rainwater collection system feeds a substantial tank — stored in a secret under-passage — that supports factory operations. The scale of the work is considerable: in 2025, the company processed more than 326,000 square metres of used truck tarpaulins.
Timothy Schaumburg for FREITAG.
Timothy Schaumburg for FREITAG.
For CEO Janine Bühler, the collection makes a larger argument about consumption. “REFERENCE is attitude in the shape of a bag. The act of choosing one of these unique pieces is a statement in itself: it stands for resource-conscious material choices, for timeless elegance, and for rejecting the throwaway culture,” she says. “The forward-thinking design, meticulous finishing, and repairability enable a long, intensive bag life – fully in line with the circular economy.”
Additional designs and seasonal colours are planned for Spring and Autumn 2027. For FREITAG, REFERENCE represents an evolution in appearance, but not in principle: a bag can be refined without losing its past, and materials that have already served one purpose can find another life without pretending they are something else.
Discover the ‘REFERENCE’ collection, now available here.
photography. courtesy of Timothy Schaumburg for FREITAG
words. Gennaro Costanzo
