the language of a wardrobe | costume designer bina daigeler on dressing rosebush pruning

‘Rosebush Pruning’, Karim Aïnouz’s English-language second movie, which premiered at this year’s Berlinale, is a film of hedonistic interiors and family members who seem to wear their wealth like armour. At its visual centre is the work of Bina Daigeler: the Munich-born, Madrid-based costume designer whose Oscar-nominated work on ‘Mulan’ (2020) followed more than two decades of collaboration with Pedro Almodóvar (‘Volver’, ‘The Room Next Door’) and an eclectic filmography that also includes Todd Field’s Tár, Jim Jarmusch’s Only Lovers Left Alive, and the Netflix series 1899. In ‘Rosebush Pruning’, she dresses a cast including Callum Turner, Riley Keough, Elle Fanning, Jamie Bell, Tracy Letts, and Pamela Anderson in a wardrobe that layers vintage Hermès and McQueen with current-season Chanel and Bottega Veneta and pieces with no label at all.

Daigeler’s costumes do a great deal of the film’s storytelling. The family is fashion-obsessed, but as Daigeler puts it, they have ‘strange taste’: combining high fashion in destructive, sometimes iconic ways that become a language of their own. Over a conversation before the film’s wider release, Daigeler spoke about tone, colour, fabric, and why a costume should never steal a scene.

You mentioned in the press materials that the script could be read as very dark or as something lighter, and that you were curious where Karim would land. Now that the film is finished and you can see the costumes in context, which side did you end up on?

Honestly, I landed much more on the humorous side. I put a lot of drama in, but the film has something very fresh, so many bits and pieces that are unexpected. The actors play it with a lot of sense of humour. That came through in the fittings, too. There was always a lot of laughing when we had doubts, like, how dark is this now? The actors did many unexpected things. You get a sense of that already in a fitting: you see them playing, having fun, and you can imagine that once they play the scene, there will be a lot of improvisation, a lot of reaction between them and with Karim. It was very spontaneous.

The family is fashion-obsessed in an almost caricatural way. They seem to hang on names more than taste. Press materials mention you deliberately got combinations “wrong” and went over the top. Where do you draw the line between dressing a character badly and dressing a character who dresses themselves badly?

I would never say I dressed any of them in a bad way. I dressed them appropriately for the human beings they are trying to be on screen. They don’t have what you’d call good taste; they have strange taste. They destructively combine high fashion. They make strange combinations of designers, but sometimes that can be really iconic. It can create a real character. That, for me, was the most interesting thing.

I didn’t follow any particular fashion designer or style. I tried to express their thoughts and feelings each time they were dressed. Riley Keough’s character, for example, became very provocative. When you see how much Chanel she wears… I wouldn’t normally think of Chanel as provocative fashion design, but how she wears it, what she made out of it, it suddenly became provocative.

The Sorolla reference and the shift toward pastels have been well documented. I’m more interested in what didn’t survive from those initial conversations.

At the beginning, I was surprised, because Karim referenced a lot of Sorolla, and I understood it, because we shot near Barcelona, and the landscape and the air have that quality. But when he saw the fitting pictures, he was always drawn much more to stronger colours. I think that was great, because it worked beautifully with Hélène’s lighting and with what she wanted to achieve with the camera. Everything spoke the same language: production design, costume, and light. It was better that we had those accents of stronger colour in the costumes.

Elle Fanning’s black Chinese-inspired dress with red flowers is a good example. It’s vintage, no label at all. People on set kept asking where it came from. I did a lot of vintage shopping for this film, and I wanted that ambiguity to be in the air. I wanted the audience to wonder: is it, isn’t it, what are they wearing? That’s the fun part about fashion. Everybody is so obsessed with all these high-fashion brands, and then you mix them up, and nobody knows what’s what.

Was there a dramaturgical intention behind mixing vintage with current-season Chanel, Bottega, YSL in the same scene on the same character?

I wanted to show the audience that you can mix. You don’t have to be obsessed with one brand, you don’t have to wear only high fashion. You can be free to combine, and suddenly you can be a fashion icon. I think the real fashion icons are the people who combine rather than stick to one house. It’s all about personal style.

Karim has spoken about your understanding of how fabric behaves with light. Working with Hélène Louvart, whose camera is so intimate and close to the body, was there a particular scene or garment where that relationship between fabric and light came to the foreground?

There are a lot of moments. The velvet dressing gowns. The silk pyjamas. The scene with Riley in a velvet shawl at that strange lunch: a shawl she got from her mother, which Elle then finds in the house later, and we see it again. The colours, the velvet, everything, I chose those materials because I know how they catch light. They fit the production design and the locations.
Callum’s gold pyjamas, with the huge velvet robe: we played silk against velvet there. The father’s dark red pyjamas are another moment. The gold and turquoise for Callum, the red for the father, all of that is a colour language. I wanted to express their emotions, and also the environment they’re in, what suits them.

Pamela Anderson has spoken about arriving on set barefaced, as a canvas. Did that openness extend to her costumes?

For me, Pamela’s character is somebody who has travelled a lot, had an amazing life, and could have had everything. We gathered beautiful pieces with fun and extravagance to make her unique, not comparable to anyone else. But also, she doesn’t really care any longer. She has these beautiful things, but she left everything behind. Sometimes she wants her watch back, she wants things back, but she has a very personal style inspired by a woman who lived a lot, travelled a lot, and now just wants to be free.

Karim has mentioned that you helped him let go of some rules he had about patterns and solid colours. What changed his mind?

I think he was surprised when he saw my mood boards, and then the fittings, and how I presented it all as a complete booklet. Before we started shooting, we had a huge wall with all the costumes lined up per scene and per actor, showing how they would interact with the location and with each other. You could pin the fitting photos in different ways. In that process, I think he saw that we could have more fun with patterns, because these actors could use them.

The actors were smart enough to wear the clothes without being dominated by them. I don’t like it when costumes are too dominant, when you only look at the costume. Riley’s Chanel dress is stunning, but it’s used in a way where you know it’s an amazing dress, and yet you’re so deep in the story that you’re just following Riley. Maybe you don’t even realise she’s wearing Chanel. That’s important. Patterns and colours should never take away from the actor’s expression. The actor is always in the foreground. The costume is a supporting role.

If you had to choose one look that captures the entire film in a single outfit, what would it be?

Some things repeat on each character: the dressing gowns, the pyjama sets, everybody wears something like that. But the piece I would choose is the blue-turquoise-red wrap. It was supposedly on Pamela first, then it went to Riley, and then to Elle. All three women wore the same one. That’s my favourite. It’s a unique piece. I love the colours, I love everything about it, and I love how we played around with it. It wasn’t in the script that it would travel from one to the other. That was something we invented during the shoot. It’s vintage. I found it in a vintage store. I have favourite vintage stores all around the world: in every city, there’s somewhere interesting.

‘Rosebush Pruning’ is released by MUBI.

stills. MUBI
interview. Maria Biardzka