brand. Haderlump
It’s been a hot fashion month so far, and in the midst of a seemingly never-ending heatwave, Berlin has turned up the heat even further. Showing from July 2 to 5, Berlin Fashion Week returned with a packed schedule celebrating both emerging talent and established names. Across the city, designers explored everything from personal histories and cultural exchange to femininity and the spirit of youth, proving once again that Berlin’s fashion scene thrives on storytelling as much as style. From Laura Gerte’s ‘Lost to Virtue’ to Clara Colette Miramon’s ‘Humidity’, here are six collections that stood out from the spring/summer 2027 season.
The vibrant markets of Marrakesh, Tokyo, Shanghai and Hong Kong came to life in William Fan’s latest collection, ‘Exchange’. After strolling through them, Fan became fascinated by the way people collect and curate objects. The venue, The Foundry, displayed over 800 items from Fan Plaza, a souvenir shop founded by Fan, while the garments felt just as eclectic. The opening look – a red knitted turtleneck with long flounce sleeves – featured distinct wording “Currency Exchange” across the chest and sleeves, setting the tone for the show and driving the inspiration home. This was followed by casual tailoring: wide-leg trousers, funnel neck jackets and exquisite pleating. Pops of plaid-on-plaid, abstract aquamarine prints and sculptural, fan-like silhouettes infused the collection with a sense of wonder.
Laura Gerte’s SS27 collection serves as the final instalment in a trilogy of collections delving into raw femininity alongside Gerte’s own womanhood and feminine experience. Titled ‘Lost to Virtue’, the collection was inspired by Mina Loy’s Feminist Manifesto, published in the 1970s, specifically its exploration of the destruction of virtue and how the image of the virtuous woman was designed to control and suppress. The garments themselves walk the line between tension and the direct rejection of virtue; silhouettes were designed without classic pattern-making and instead drape, cling, flow and tuck around the body. Crafted entirely from reclaimed clothing, deadstock and recycled textiles, the brand’s signature vintage T-shirts become barely-there dresses, with the original collars transformed into hip cut-outs. Within each look, the trace of a past life remains visible, echoing the tension between suppression and freedom.
Touching on his own experience as a hotel waiter, creative director of Haderlump, Johann Ehrhardt, invited 400 guests to the Hotel Adlon Kempinski to present ‘Atrium’ and introduce 28 characters around whom the collection is modelled. Held in the Grand Ballroom, the collection was infused with a key motif – a nod to those often worn by hotel concierges – which appeared on accessories, belts and bags. On the garments, the key was tucked under the lapels of structured blazers, embroidered onto tank tops and transformed into brooches on wraparound, duvet-esque jackets. The brand’s signature tailoring was on full display, with denim pieces shining through the moody colour palette and harsh black leather looks. It is this contrast that acts as the beating heart of the collection, and allows Ehrhardt’s attention to detail to come to the forefront effortlessly.
It’s as if Clara Colette Miramon knew just how hot and sticky it would be in Europe this summer when naming her SS27 collection ‘Humid’. While the title feels true to the weather, humidity means something else to the designer; it serves as a metaphor for growth, transformation and desire. A journey to Thailand inspired Miramon, with the tropical summer prompting a juxtaposition of beauty and decay throughout the collection. The most obvious interpretation is the elephant print, which appears on babydoll mini dresses, micro mini shorts, bra tops, boleros and even the brand’s ballet flats. Other details, such as skimpy tops, shiny sailor collars and see-through PVC capes, act as subtle references to the heat while bringing the brand’s signature aesthetic to the collection.
Celebrating its 15th anniversary this season, MALAIKARAISS made a triumphant return to BFW. Unveiling ‘Playground Love’, the collection acts as both a celebration of youthful freedom and the brand’s enduring dedication to fashion. A defining aspect of youthfulness is imperfection – specifically, the way it can be transformed into beauty – and creative director Malaika Raiss captured that feeling through playful colour blocking, attention-grabbing fabrics and soft lines. The jewellery is equally vivacious in nature, inspired by a springtime trip to Japan and translating several historical motifs through the use of sterling silver and pearls. The brand even used its own materials, in collaboration with textile artist Karlotta Bott, showcasing its commitment not only to sustainability but also to thoughtful design.
This year marks a decade of GmbH, and the milestone sparked a great deal of reflection from creative directors Benjamin A. Huseby and Serhat Isik. Not only did they look back on their own history, but they also looked back a century to the vibrant Berlin fashion scene of the 1920s and its eradication during the Nazi regime. In the show notes, the brand asks, “Can a collection embody a hundred years or even ten years?”, before immediately answering the question itself: “Obviously not.” Still, this collection was infused with references that successfully attempted to capture the history of Berlin’s fashion scene, from collars inspired by a coat by Clara Böhm to archival pieces (courtesy of Berliner Chic) dating from the 1910s to the 1960s. GmbH also partnered with UGG on custom footwear to bring the brands’ heritage together and ic! berlin on screwless eyewear as it too celebrates 10 years. Almost every look carried its own story to decode, and what better way to celebrate 10 years?
photography. Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Week
words. Amber Louise
