backstage buzz | milan fashion week ss20 pt. one

Alberta Ferretti SS20

 

Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 has officially come to an end. The week had its share of viral moments on the runways — we’re sure to remember J-Lo and Donatella Versace showing for quite some time — but for now, Schön! is ready to take you behind the scenes again with photographer Giulia Mantovani for an exclusive backstage look.

Beginning our backstage journey is Alberta Ferretti, who offered a vibrant, vintage-inspired Spring/Summer 2020 collection. While works in this collection may be deeply influenced by the hues and styles of the ’70s, there is an undoubtedly youthful spirit that carries through each piece, ensuring that this vintage inspiration never teeters on mere nostalgia — or worse, parody. Butterfly motifs and patchwork denim made for memorable pieces. Moving from daywear, Ferretti’s evening wear faded from blue to black, inspired by artist Fabrizio Plessi. These too had elements of playfulness, with offerings arousing feelings of movement through craft and careful embellishment.

Continuing on, the next designer from the week we’re focusing on is Arthur Arbesser. For Arbesser’s SS20 collection, he rooted his thinking in a collection of fabric swatches he inherited from his Romanian-born grandmother. According to the designer, his grandmother had a strong connection to her past, a connection made manifest through this spread of fabrics from the twenties through the eighties. These swatches led to the incorporation of Transylvanian-inspired patterns and post-war styles into the collection, woven expertly into everything from knitwear to lace dresses to silk skirts. Kidswear undoubtedly played a part as well; accessories added a childish twist to each model’s presentation.

Designer Anna Molinari dedicated the latest collection from Blumarine to “kindness,” noting that the feeling seemed to “belong to a time past.” After Blumarine’s return to form earlier this year for their Fall/Winter 2019 collection, “kindness” is an apt header for the collection; the label seems again at peace with itself, its SS2020 pieces exuding the welcoming, floaty and romantic energy for which the brand became known. The collection forefronted pastels, with several pieces embroidered with words like “Sweetie,” “Cutie,” “Lovely,” and, of course, “Kind.” The collection also featured short satin slip dresses trimmed with lace alongside organza tops and pencil skirts, the latter two adorned with Molinari favourite flower: the rose.

Calcaterra is a relatively new brand, only producing its first collection in 2016. Since then, the brand, helmed by designer Daniele Calcaterra, has made its mark through its use of interesting textiles and innovative silhouettes. This year is no different; the label debuted a series of primarily monochromatic works employing a range of fits and textures. Pieces hung loose, with occasional tailoring keeping the collection varied.

Italian brand ICEBERG kept the colour alive for their collection. Merging Y2K aesthetics with spring pastels and the street- and activewear styles for which the brand became known, its SS20 collection is vivid and ready to move. Purples and pinks dominated, with occasional hints of red and neon yellow breaking up the already diverse collection. Geometric patterns and Looney Tunes motifs made their way through several pieces as well, and a number of sequinned all-black offerings rounded out the collection quite nicely. To conclude the show, ICEBERG brought out afrobeat singer/songwriter Tiwa Savage — a bombastic end to a dynamic show.

While collections earlier in the week drew from the ’70s and early aughts, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini found inspiration somewhere in between. Taking bits and pieces from the eighties and beyond, Serafini brought wide-shouldered pieces and embroidered denim for a collection rife with nostalgia and love for the bygone eras. Gold also played heavily into this collection, both through embroidery and accessories.

Flowers — which featured prominently across the rest of Milan Fashion Week — took a special role in Vivetta’s collection. Utilising both the colour and vibrancy of springtime florals, Vivetta provided a mix of reds, pinks and whites, literally tied together with oversized bows. In addition to bows, hearts factor heavily into the collection, with several pieces outlined in a broad heart shape. Models also sported wide-brimmed hats in a variety of colours — a playful end to a playful series of shows.

Discover more about Milan Fashion Week here

photography. Giulia Mantovani
words. Braden Bjella 

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