a second home | viceroy santa monica

Nikol (Nickey) Vyhlidalova.

Getting to Zermatt, Switzerland, requires a level of commitment that most alpine destinations simply do not demand. Because the village is completely car-free, the final leg of the journey relies on a cog railway that climbs from Täsch through the valley, bringing travellers into an alpine sanctuary that feels entirely removed from the frantic pace of the modern world. By the time CERVO Mountain Resort appears above the village centre – all dark timber, natural stone and unobstructed Matterhorn views – the journey has already initiated the decompression process, allowing guests to leave the noise of everyday life behind.

Schön! alive arrived for the inaugural ALTO Retreat, CERVO’s new three-day trail running programme, ahead of its official launch on 26th June. ALTO, the resort’s newly launched movement and performance initiative, is designed for what its founders describe as a more considered way of engaging with landscape, body and mind. In practice, it means breathwork at altitude, cold plunge pools, a 15km mountain trail before most people have fully woken up, and the unmistakable realisation that your relationship with your own body deserves more attention than you have been giving it.

Nikol (Nickey) Vyhlidalova.

Nikol (Nickey) Vyhlidalova.

The programme is led by Martin Anthamatten, a former Swiss national ski mountaineering team member and record-setting winner of the Zermatt-Rothorn race. Anthamatten is the kind of guide who makes covering enormous distances across steep terrain feel like an entirely reasonable thing to do – beginners will have some trust issues afterwards, but that’s part of the experience. His philosophy is about understanding what the body is actually communicating. “It’s important to feel when you’re in a block; you have to feel the body sensations,” he says. “Sleep is the most important. I think it’s better to recover a bit more than less.” For someone who has spent a career at the sharp end of alpine endurance sport, the emphasis on recovery over output is both surprising and immediately convincing.

The retreat begins before the trail does, with morning breathwork sessions carried out by the specialised team at Keen Wellbeing. These controlled breathing techniques are engineered to prepare the body for contrast therapy, which moves systematically between hot steam and freezing ice baths. Drawing on both Eastern and Nordic traditions at the Ātman Mountain Spa, this contrast routine delivers intense mental clarity and reduces systemic inflammation before runners even lace up their shoes. The ice is cold in the way that ice is cold, naturally, so there is no getting used to it. But the after-effect, that particular clarity that arrives about three minutes after climbing out, the one that makes everything else seem manageable, is difficult to argue with.

CERVO, Ritual Room and Ātman Mountain Spa.

CERVO Resort.

The trail run itself is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Fifteen kilometres from the resort, up through the mountain terrain and across to Sunnega, then along the ridge and around Lake Leisee, with the Matterhorn appearing and reappearing at intervals throughout, its peak dusted with a thin layer of snow that made the whole thing look like someone had touched it up with a paintbrush for the occasion. Coach Florent Tillie – patient beyond all reasonable expectation – ensured that nobody was left behind, a task that required considerable diplomatic skill at various points during the ascent. The terrain shifts quickly in this part of Switzerland, from well-maintained paths to rocky switchbacks to open meadow, and the trail demands constant attention. What it gives back though – apart from muscular pain – is a perspective that is very difficult to achieve at sea level.

Sunnega, reached by an underground funicular from the village, sits at around 2,300 metres and looks directly at the Matterhorn across a valley that has the quality of something constructed. Lake Leisee, a high-altitude lake above it, is small and still and surrounded by Alpine flowers in June. Running past it feels slightly absurd, especially considering how much easier it would be to travel across the mountain that way.

Nikol (Nickey) Vyhlidalova.

CERVO, Madre Nostra.

Nutrition and hydration are managed in partnership with Swiss performance brand PEAQ Hydration, with custom, nutrient-dense menus served across CERVO’s three regional restaurants: ‘Ferdinand,’ ‘Madre Nostra’ and ‘Bazaar’. Each is based on regional produce, although the menus offer three distinct culinary experiences – from Thai-based dishes to classic Italian-style favourites.

CERVO itself is worth discussing beyond its role as a retreat venue. The resort’s 54 rooms and suites across three lodges, designed by German design studio Dreimeta, operate as a clustered village of seven distinct chalets. Nomad pairs rugged industrial accents with mid-century utility styling for the modern explorer; Alpinist leans into a minimalist, Nordic-inspired interpretation of high-altitude refuge; and Huntsman references classic alpine lodge heritage with deep leathers, rich wools and private open fireplaces. The interior architecture is grounded heavily in sustainably sourced local larch wood, raw concrete and textured granite, paired with customised details like integrated record players and private saunas that make the spaces feel instantly warm and lived-in.

CERVO, Bazaar.

CERVO, Alpinist Room.

For those who want the full three-day version, the retreat is structured around five pillars: performance and technique, recovery and regeneration, nutrition and hydration, mindfulness, and community. The last one is the easiest to underestimate and the hardest to replicate outside of a context like this, a small group of people doing something physically demanding together in a landscape that puts individual effort into immediate and humbling perspective.

The ALTO Trail Club and Lab, which launched weekly from 10th June, extends the same philosophy to a broader audience, open to beginners and experienced runners alike, with Anthamatten and the ALTO team leading guided runs against that same Matterhorn backdrop. The second ALTO Retreat will follow in September. 

Discover more about the ALTO Trail Club and Lab here.

photography. courtesy of CERVO, Nikol (Nickey) Vyhlidalova
words. Gennaro Costanzo

Geneva in winter. Photography. Gauvin Lapetoule/©GenèveTourisme

Geneva is often regarded as a stopover – a gateway to the Alps rather than a destination in its own right – but we can attest that this compact, easily underestimated city deserves a vacation of its own and, at minimum, a full 48 hours.

Situated at the tip of Lac Léman, Geneva is surrounded by some of the finest panoramic mountain views. Simply wander down to the promenade and take in magnificent Lake Geneva for yourself. Spot the Jura mountain range hugging the French Swiss border, or even the famed Mont Blanc, visible on the clearest of days. The city is small – with a population of just over 200,000 – making it easily accessible and perfect for a leisurely mooch. Choose to potter around on foot, ambling into art galleries in the historic quarter, followed by a visit to Du Rhône for a Swiss hot chocolate that’s hard to beat. And when your feet need a break, hop on La Mouette: a small water taxi that ferries the locals from one side of the lake to the other. Whether you’re looking for a short summer break or a festive getaway, we’ve pulled together our top picks for a weekend in the city. 

Left. Musée International de la Croix-Rouge et du Croissant-Rouge. Right. Patek Philippe Museum. Photography. Guillaume Sanchez/© Genève Tourisme

what to see 

Be sure to add the old town to your itinerary. Our recommendation is to book a guide to make the most of it. You can find a list of both public and private tours on Visit Geneva’s website. Start your tour at Bains des Pâquis, where you’ll learn about Empress Elisabeth of Austria who was famously assassinated on the lakeside promenade of Geneva. Weave through cobbled streets before finishing in Place du Bourg-de-Four, Geneva’s oldest square where spies allegedly met during the Cold War. And when you’re done, pull up a chair at one of the bars in the square (we chose La Clémence), primly positioned for people-watching, preferably with a Genevan Calvinus beer in hand.

The city offers an eclectic mix of museums and galleries, from Musée Rath (also known as the Museum of Art and History) to the Patek Philippe Museum, spread across four floors and housing some of the most treasured watches in the world.   

Musée Rath/Musée d’Art et d’Histoire. Photography. Guillaume Sanchez/© Genève Tourisme

Geneva is also home to an impressive number of vital organisations: from The Red Cross to The United Nations. The importance of the city, also branded as the ‘Peace Capital’, is unmistakable. Widely recognised as being a hub for diplomacy, there’s no better place to learn more about the subject than the International Museum of The Red Cross and Red Crescent. If museums are top of your to-do list, pick up a Geneva city pass, which allows you to visit multiple museums and experiences over a few days. 

If your stay extends past the 48-hour mark, the beautiful city of Lausanne is a brief 50-minute train ride along the scenic Geneva coastline. Take the day to stroll through the old town or visit the famous Olympic Committee Headquarters. A further 20 minutes by train from Lausanne brings you to the charming Lavaux Vineyards, situated amongst rolling hills and coastline in a UNESCO world heritage site. If you have time to stay for the evening, there are many fine dining establishments nearby. Emotions par Guy Ravet at the Grand Hotel du Lac comes highly recommended.

Left. Le bains des Pâquis. Photography. Julien Dejeu/©GenèveTourisme. Right. Quai des Bergue. ©GenèveTourisme

what to do 

If the sun is shining, there’s no better activity than a trip to Bains des Pâquis. Positioned on the city’s pier on Lake Geneva, this hotspot is alive with activity all year round. Simply bring your swimsuit and take a dip (the lake is one of the clearest in Europe), before heading into one of the many saunas and steam rooms that line the pier. Spring or autumn provide the perfect excuse to warm up at Buvette des Bains, the neighbouring restaurant widely known for the best fondue in the city (more on that later), but if you mosey down the quay in November or December, you’ll also discover the quaint wooden huts that hug the lake and make up the city’s Christmas markets.

Le bains des Pâquis. © Genève Tourisme

It would be a crime to visit Geneva and not sample a bucket-load of Swiss chocolate – but where to start? With copious options and little knowledge, we chose the Choco Pass, a 48-hour card that allows you to taste test numerous varieties. Highlights include Sweetzerland, the only female-run chocolatier in the city, Guillaume Bichet and – a personal favourite – Du Rhône. Weave into shops scattered throughout the city, listening to chocolatiers talk you through their craft before rewarding you with a small pick-and-mix bag to take home. 

The region is also known for its wellness, and a trip to one of the many spas (particularly when the weather turns, as it did on our trip) is always a good idea. We tried out the Turkish-style Bain-Bleu Hammam & Spa, which houses two pools: a winding indoor variety with massage jets and a rooftop one overlooking the lake. The spa also offers both a hammam and sauna and many relaxation rooms spread across the building.

Public bathing island, Quia de Cologny. ©Switzerland Tourism

where to eat

For food, begin with a non-negotiable whilst on a Swiss weekend away: fondue. A perfectly balanced, rich and comforting pot can be found at Buvette des Bains (a spot that truly does deserve a second mention). It’s paired with a simple plate of cured meats, pickles and a never-ending supply of French bread. Order a glass of house white and observe the local clientele wandering in and out while you tuck in.

For dinner, Le Picotin in the Cologny neighbourhood is a warm, local café offering a thoughtful mix of small plates and heartier dishes. We ordered to share, starting with Duroc Pork Terrine served with pickles, followed by a delicate Butternut Chiffonade. For the main course, highlights included burnt leeks in a rich mornay sauce, alongside chicken with soft polenta. Throughout, the emphasis on high-quality, seasonal ingredients was evident, making this an easy recommendation.

Left. La Clémence, Place du Bourg-de-Four. © Genève Tourisme. Right. Chou. ©Chou

For the duration of the trip, an unintentional pursuit for the ultimate hot chocolate had begun – and it was a close call. Chou, located not far from Bain-Bleu Spa, makes a rich and deeply smooth variety (that pairs nicely with the Chou à la crème). Charlie Ganache offers a deluxe hot chocolate, served with a classic side of cream. Yet the crown goes to Du Rhône’s deliciously decedent concoction, with a wide variety of fresh chocolate added.

If you’re looking for a quick bite, grab a galette – a gluten-free pancake, often made from buckwheat – at Les 3 Palettes, and back in the old square of Place du Bourg-de-Four you’ll find Café du Bourg-de-Four, which offers incredible rösti.

Bâtiment des Forces Motrices. Photography, Guillaume Sanchez/© Genève Tourisme

Find out more about Geneva here.

words. Miranda Bunnis
edit. Huma Humayun
special thanks. Fondation Genève Tourisme & Congrès

In the heart of East London, the Town Hall Hotel stands as a significant reminder of the area’s rich civic heritage. The award-winning hotel is set within the beautifully restored Edwardian Bethnal Green Town Hall, a Grade II-listed building that reopened in 2010 following an extensive restoration. 

For creatives looking to immerse themselves in the inspiration that weaves through the East End, the Town Hall Hotel provides an ideal base: it’s a short walk from Victoria Park, the Young V&A, the nearby Satan’s Whiskers bar, and is just minutes from Bethnal Green tube station. For those looking for something new to read, the hotel’s partnership with the renowned publishing house, Faber Library, offers an extensive library free for guests to browse, with classics, contemporary authors, and children’s fiction. 

From a design standpoint, the hotel brings together the building’s historic architecture with a contemporary new top floor and wing, creating a unique setting where past and present meet. Guests stay in one of the 97 rooms, many of which feature fully fitted kitchens that lend themselves to longer stays. Each room contains one-off vintage pieces of furniture and is made deliciously inviting with barista-quality coffee and luxury toiletries. 

The hotel also features one of the largest suites in London, adding an unexpected sense of scale to the building’s unique offering. In 2022, two of the suites were redesigned in collaboration with London-based furniture designers/makers Jan Hendzel Studio. The new interiors combine creative layouts, functional pieces, sculptural elements and signature textured finishes, giving the spaces the feel of “gallery-come-living spaces”, the balance of high art and daily comfort.

For foodies, the Town Hall Hotel features two distinct dining experiences led by chef Rafael Cagali. Situated on the ground floor, the two Michelin-starred Da Terra serves playful, perfectly executed tasting menus that blend South American inspiration with Italian influences, complemented by an extensive wine cellar. 

Taking its name from Elis Regina, one of the most iconic vocalists in Brazilian jazz and Bossa Nova, Restaurant Elis sits on the level above, celebrating the chef’s Brazilian-Italian heritage through rustic dishes, a selection of elegant snacks, and great wine.

The guest experience extends to a dedicated gym equipped with Peloton Bikes for a strong sweat session and a 14 metre indoor heated swimming pool. With skylights and loungers, the pool is the perfect place to relax. In-room spa treatments available by Ruuby, the UK’s leading on-demand mobile beauty and wellness platform. And as a final touch, the hotel is dog-friendly and welcomes our furry friends as part of the stay, a final gesture of ease within a building shaped by history and contemporary life.

Ultimately, the Town Hall Hotel succeeds in offering more than just a place to stay; it is a layered experience where heritage, design, and contemporary East London culture intersect. Whether guests are drawn by its architectural significance, its thoughtfully curated interiors, or its strong ties to food, art, and publishing, the hotel functions as both retreat and creative catalyst. 

Book your stay at townhallhotel.com.

words. Clara La Rosa