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a new age of menswear | mfw men’s aw25

Church’s AW24

Only Milan Fashion Week (MFW) could be home to such a sophisticated and well-crafted array of collections. Each brand – presenting their autumn/winter 2025 menswear collections in the heart of the city – reinvented the word “menswear,” imagining a new being to embody their work. Stone Island, with its recognisable dye technique, Canali’s timeless silhouettes, and JORDANLUCA’s fusing British vision and love, are just a few examples of this. This season wasn’t just a mundane showing of the same shapes and colours, but a full 180 of what we typically see menswear as.

Made especially for the modern explorer, Woolrich’s Black Label autumn/winter 2025 collection, ‘Ice Fall’, hones in on untouched nature – volcanic terrains, frozen peaks, and endless snowfall, oh my! Creative director Todd Snyder takes inspiration from Nordic landscapes, designing pieces that both shield the wearer from the elements and closely resemble said elements. Thick puffer jackets, fleece zip-ups, and plaid shirts are paired with hiking boots, fingerless gloves, and beanies to create the epitome of style meets function. This combo is nothing new to Woolrich, which has been fusing these ideas together for years to ensure their luxury is wearable. 

Montblanc AW25

“The Tree of Writing,” an installation made completely from paper, sat smack dab in the middle of Montblanc’s autumn/winter 2025 presentation space in the Salone dei Tessuti. Dotted around it sat the brand’s ‘The Journey’ collection, comprising of bags fit for the modern-day traveller. A new style, the ‘Writing Traveller,’ is designed to hold desk essentials (like classic Montblanc pens, notepads, and more) in a large zip front pocket. Ostrich print leather finds its way onto compact wallets and crossbody bags, while soft shiny leather is used in new backpack styles. Wanting to emphasise self-expression through writing, artistic director Marco Tomasetta not only designed bags fit for writers, but an awe-inspiring presentation space.

Heading East, Stone Island siphons the innovation and brutalism of Japanese design. Creative director Carlo Rivetti’s latest collection melanges classic silhouettes with high-tech sustainability. Hooded nylon jackets and matching baggy trousers are dyed with the Japanese blue corrosion technique – which creates blue and grey tones on the fabric after oxidation – and colour collision knitwear creates the illusion of motion. The brand’s signature ‘Ice Jacket’ is reinvented, with thermo-sensitive fabric and detachable accessories enhancing the wearability. Pink quarter zips, deep red rainwear, and mustard matching sets pop against the deep bluish-grey colour palette that carries throughout the collection.

Recognised for its impeccably tailored suits and fine Italian design, Canali is once again finding ways to modernize its garments, while staying true to its roots. Honouring the place that Canali operates from, Brianza – an area of Italy at the foot of the Alps, situated between Milan and Lake Como, known for its high-end furniture production – the brand’s latest collection is heavily inspired by interiors. From floor tiles to curtains and cushions, patterns and textures are translated into long coats, chunky cardigans, and soft scarves. Designed to keep you warm all winter, each piece brings the comfort of loungewear into everyday living. 

As asymmetrical silhouettes transform from mesh printed hoodies into basketball jerseys and jackets with under-arm cut-outs that can be worn sleeveless, Saul Nash’s ‘Metamorphosis’ collection celebrates freedom. In the brand’s show notes, he says, “I want to create garments that allow people to liberate themselves. This season we’re exploring what this will look like through a new lens”. Debuting for the first time at MFW, the London-based label made a splash, with its signature elevated – yet functional – recycled nylon parkas, tracksuits, and leather jackets. Also debuting for the first time: SLNSH, a multi-season collaboration with Lululemon launching on March 11. Mesh running tops and matching leggings, long sleeves, and jackets are all part of the first instalment of men’s and womenswear. 

Corneliani AW25

The audience at Corneliani’s MFW show was invited to ‘Get Closer’ during the unique showing of its autumn/winter 2025 collection. Taking place inside one of Palazzo Durini’s 16th-century cloisters, dancers adorned in slim tailored trousers, flowy trench coats, and fitted turtlenecks stepped up to a turning circular stage, conveying camaraderie among men through dance and movement choreographed by Kate Coyne – artistic director of the Central School of Ballet in London. The remaining models walked around the space in monochromatic looks in shades of brown, tan, and moss green, with the brand’s classic silhouettes and Italian tailoring on full display. 

From avant-garde designs to innovative techniques, Ten C has solidified itself as one to watch in Milan. Constantly pushing boundaries to redefine what menswear is, creative director Alessandro Pungetti’s newest collection looks to nature for inspiration, drawing earthy tones of reds, oranges, and browns into the colour palette. The brand’s now signature jersey fabric Original Japanese Jersey (OJJ), wool, flannel, and velvet is dyed in the same palette, manifesting as padded outerwear, down jackets, oversized shirts, jumpers, and baggy trousers. Each piece remains functional – inspired by military and workwear – but exudes the kind of sophistication that comes from expertly designed clothing.

With singular red roses held delicately alongside pops of blood red, a love affair is the only way to describe JORDANLUCA’s latest collection. Friends and family of creative directors Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto walked the runway in familiar pieces revived from the past – think tailored suits with graphic ties and collared shirts peeking out from round-neck embroidered jumpers. Outerwear took centre stage, with oversized trench and Duffle coats, Barbour-inspired rainwear, and painted leather jackets highlighting the brand’s British vision – specifically emphasizing English and Scottish mills and suppliers. This British romanticism woven through each look found its way down to the model’s toes, with shearling and leather wedges and Oxford styles all featuring a lock and key design. 

Held in the exquisite Biblioteca Braidense in Milan, Church’s presented their autumn/winter 2025 collection. Honing in on quality craftsmanship, tradition, and innovation, the brand’s new line of footwear blended effortlessly with the scenery. One shoe stood out in particular, though, the new Chetwynd Contour – a modernisation of Church’s iconic wingtip style. Using a new technology, high-frequency engraving, the brand is able to use thicker leather uppers whilst creating elegant embossed patterns. Inside the Reading Room, this brand new style, alongside the Amberley Chelsea boot and the Consul Oxford, sat atop desks as if they were always meant to be there. 

imagery. Courtesy of Woolrich, Montblanc, Stone Island, Canali, Saul Nash, Corneliani, Ten CJORDANLUCA + Church’s
words. Amber Louise