As London Fashion Week came to a close and handed on the relay to Milan, the last few houses to present their collections made sure that they would make a lasting impression. From the 1960s elegance seen at Tom Ford, to the inventive layering of references at KTZ and Meadham Kirchhoff, the closing days of London’s Autumn/Winter 2014 collections were innovative and, as ever, demonstrated skill.
David Koma explored architectural cuts in his collection, in line with the geometrically tailored pieces which have become recognisable as his signature. Intricate leather woven bodices added a new edge to the style seen in his previous collections, however, and made this show one of his strongest yet.
The collection presented by Tom Ford was undoubtedly a highlight of Fashion Week, with pieces which drew inspiration from the 1960s; hooded dresses and fox-fur coats reminiscent of the swinging 1960s were seen walking the runway. Iconic supermodels Karen Elson and Stella Tennant, who closed the show, reflected Tom Ford’s own unadulterated success in all things glamorous. From the velvet number which opened the show, to the sequined-slogan football dresses, the collection was as sleek as it was refined.
Perhaps one of the boldest collections of this season’s shows, Ashish was a tongue-in-cheek reworking of all the stereotypes associated with childhood. Ashish Gupta presented a layering of references, with hints at Japanese amine and Disney princesses. Beyond the doll connotations and the saccharine pinks, however, was a beautifully crafted collection, with highlights including the sequin-reworked denim and the fully-embroidered wedding dress.
Kokon to Zai developed the narrative which was already touched upon last season, with a collection which seemed to draw on a North African heritage. The complex pieces featured mirror detailing and tile-art prints, which were balanced with loose, sheer veils. Another particularly strong collection from KTZ, which had the house’s following, as well as new fans, held captive by its inventiveness.
Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff presented a playful collection, which seemed to dive back into the delightfully naïve colours and textures of childhood. With wool coats and jackets which seemed to pay tribute the costume Chanel, the show cleverly blended references to high-end fashion with to the oneiric realms of childplay.
With these final days of shows, London Fashion Week came to a close, thereby concluding a display of the utmost creativity and design genius. From the 1960s inspired pieces at Tom Ford, to the 1990s anime references at Ashish, the closing days spanned the gap between past decades. As London takes its bow, Schön! eagerly anticipates the designs to emerge from the Italian fashion capital, Milan.
Words / Patrick Clark
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