backstage in paris | weinsanto
As one of the favourites of Paris’ younger scene of designers, Weinsanto captured us on the first day of Paris Fashion Week, whisking winter into high drama with Complètement Givrée — a frozen fantasia where couture meets chaos. The models stormed the runway against icy winds, their every step framed by Camille Lellouche’s haunting voice. Corseted jackets, sculptural jumpsuits, and pleated skirts sculpt the body with signature Weinsanto flair — sensual, sharp, and subversive. Arctic whites, metallic greys, and midnight blacks collide with soft bursts of aurora borealis hues, turning the cold into something irresistibly cool. Schön! headed behind the scenes with photographer Kraaps to discover the frozen world of wonders. photography. Kraaps
backstage in paris | ottolinger
Ottolinger presented a fierce, fiery and sultry collection today in Paris. Every piece of the collection effortlessly shifted from cityscapes to streewear and industrial items, brilliantly blending elegance with a sense of adventure. It was also the launch of their Ottonymous capsule collection, in collaboration with Shayne Oliver – a bold exploration of fashion’s nomadic spirit. Enhanced by ECCO.kollektive’s craftsmanship and a soundtrack by WENCH, this collection redefines modern luxury with a dynamic, boundary-breaking edge. Photographer Kraaps takes Schön! backstage to explore the full underground world of Ottolinger. photography. Kraaps
backstage in paris | casablanca
Always a Schön! favourite, Casablanca presented a Spring/Summer 2025 collection that captured an unexpected, enigmatic portrait of Los Angeles, blending the city’s contrasting subcultures with a vibrant homage. Inspired by LA’s underground scenes, founder Charaf Tajer explored the Mexican-American Lowrider movement, surf, and skate cultures, merging them with Moroccan-French influences. Through opulent tailoring, psychedelic patterns, and metallic evening wear, the collection reimagines LA’s iconic spirit—a paradox of darkness and glamour—transposed to Paris with the flamboyant confidence of a city that is ever-evolving. Schön! takes with backstage with photographer Kraaps capturing all the pre-show excitement. photography. Kraaps
backstage in paris | pressiat
Pressiat is something of a phenomenon in Paris. Founded by the young designer Vincent Pressiat, the house has gone from strengths to strengths, channelling all the creatie potential of Paris’ underground energy into masterful, couture-style silhouettes. Taking creatures of the Parisian nightlife as an inspiration, the designs are sleek, sassy, boudoir-ready and oh-so-sexy. Photographer Kraaps goes backstage at Paris Fashion Week to unveil all the beauty before the Spring/Summer 2025 show for Schön! photography. Kraaps
backstage views | philipp plein ss25
Philipp Plein, the iconic luxury fashion brand, unveiled its ss25 Show at ‘The Plein Hotel’ in Milan this week, showcasing an exquisite runway that exudes sophistication that mirrors the venue itself. Inspired by the German fashion designer Philipp Plein, The Plein Hotel reflects his spirit and innovation, making a bold impression in Milan’s renowned fashion scene. True to Philipp Plein, the season features a variety of pieces ranging from glamorous eveningwear to chic streetwear. The collection balances a neutral palette with bold prints, showcasing the brand’s daring yet refined aesthetic. Each piece, from monogram prints to crystal embellishments, highlights the craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail that define Philipp Plein. Schön! took a peek behind the curtain as Philipp Plein’s ss25 show was about to begin — see it for yourself. photography. Maria Biardzka
transcending boundaries | backstage at shanghai fashion week aw24
Shanghai Fashion Week (SHFW) transcended its boundaries this autumn/winter season, with fashion and culture fusing seamlessly to create collections full of meaning. From the celestial designs of Tension Archive to WMWM’s take on a school uniform to the exuberance of SHUSHU/TONG’s 50s-inspired glamour, discover what brands had to offer in this behind-the-scenes look at SHFW. WMWM headed back to school with their ‘Shady Scholar Series’. Argyle sweaters, cardigans that your teacher used to wear (but cooler), and plenty of plaid graced the runway – which featured a wooden installation designed by Zucchini and Sonneku resembling a rounded desk with stools. Wool tights were colour-blocked to mimic socks being worn over them and paired with leather Mary Jane’s while the collars of crisp white button-ups peeked out from knit vests, ensuring the top half of the look was just as schoolgirl cool as the bottom. Midi skirts and oversized knitwear combined with micro mini shorts and puff sleeves married a teacher’s wardrobe with that of their students. Traditional Chinese garments, including the Cheongsam and Tangzhuang, were reinterpreted in Hu Sheguang Haute Couture’s autumn/winter collection. Every look in the collection was designed with a red structured silk fabric ornamented with a large… Read more »
backstage | paris fashion week ss24
Designers took Paris Fashion Week (PFW) by storm, presenting collections that encompass the spirit of summer, combine French style with the brand’s heritage, and promote timelessness. Maria Biardzka took her camera backstage to photograph the collections in a new light, exclusively for Schön!. Dawei Studio brings back the romanticism of the 1940s and 1950s with its SS24 collection. Pleated garments resembling an organ are featured in a soft pink that slowly transitions into blues and greens. Paired with these styles is a more sophisticated silhouette inspired by the 80s, as well as bell sleeves, cinched waists, and elegant draping. The Miaou girl is constantly on the move, dressed in low-rise skirts with logo waistbands peeking out the top and sports jersey-inspired tops. The ‘GO!’ collection combines breezy French styles with American sportswear and collegiate looks. The brand’s signature corsets and barely-there designs are revamped in varsity red, green with yellow stripes, and black leather. Unveiling her first collection since relocating to Paris, Di Du of her namesake brand, DIDU, showed ‘The Age of Love’. The collection, showing the transition from anger to acceptance when it comes to the state of the world, reveals European ballet attire effortlessly fused with Chinese… Read more »
backstage | louis gabriel nouchi
Working around literature as inspiration every season, Louis Gabriel Nouchi took Christopher Isherwood’s A Single Man as reference point for his Spring/Summer 2024 collection. In a brilliant casting that explored the various facets of masculinity, in all its contemporary complexity, exploring bold silhouettes with refined tailoring, modern textures and erotically charged elegance. Maria Ferroni headed behind-the-scenes to unveil the collection for Schön!. photography. Maria Ferroni words. Patrick Clark
backstage | sean suen
Cycles were celebrated for the new Sean Suen Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Working on opposites, binaries and complimentary forces, black and white silhouettes emerged, with grey and khaki tones liaising the collection: Eastern cutting techniques brought elegance to the pieces, whilst urban silhouettes brought a modern touch to each look. Maria Ferroni headed backstage for Schön! to unveil the details behind the show. photography. Maria Ferroni words. Patrick Clark
backstage | études
High on the rooftops of Paris’ 18th arrondissement, Études closed the final installation of the collection triptych dedicated to the French capital. As the sun set, an array of the house’s iconic urban silhouettes emerged, bathed in the light of the sunset, appropriate for the collection which was titled “CRÉPUSCULE”. Tailored pieces were fused with brilliant textures, volumes, that breathed a light, free approach to design, signature to the creative direction trio, namely Jérémie Egry, Aurélien Arbet, and José Lamali. A definite highlight of the week of collections for Schön! Maria Ferroni headed backstage to document the proceedings. photography. Maria Ferroni words. Patrick Clark
backstage buzz | dawei
Backstage at the Dawei Autumn/Winter 2023 show, photographer Maria Biardzka captured the volumes and draped silhouettes of the new collection. With essential, textural designs, court-worthy dresses brushed shoulders with delectable wool shapes. photography. Maria Biardzka Schön! Magazine is now available in print at Amazon, as ebook download + on any mobile device
backstage buzz | acne studios
Heading behind-the-scenes at Acne Studios’ Paris Fashion Week show with photographer Maria Biardzka , Schön! discovered the magical mysticism of the Autumn/Winter 2023 collection. Futuristic and oversized, the collection was inspired by the long dark Swedish winter days, capturing the beauty in the sombre landscapes. photography. Maria Biardzka Schön! Magazine is now available in print at Amazon, as ebook download + on any mobile device
backstage buzz | milan fashion week aw2020
While our minds may be a little preoccupied with Paris Fashion Week, it does us well to look back at some of the other weeks of this season. Most recently, Milan Fashion Week captured our imagination, taking us through the Italian fashion world and beyond to give us an insight into the trends of tomorrow. As we do with many of the major fashion weeks, Schön! is here to give our readers an exclusive look at the behind-the-scenes goings-on from the week while highlighting some of our favourites. First on our list is Annakiki. Annakiki gave us a vibrant collection rich in both colour and style. Inspired by the unreality of fake news, the latest from Annakiki created its own dreamworld on the Milan runway, with memorable pieces including a phone-icon print coat with matching leggings and a rainbow-striped suit jacket. Anteprima went big for this season’s Milan Fashion Week. Looks were roomy and varied, offering a series of cozy fits in a range of patterns with comfort at their heart. This is not to say pieces were not glamourous; layering and shiny golds reminded us why Anteprima is a top player in the world of mixing luxury with… Read more »
backstage buzz | new york fashion week aw2020
The AW2020 season of New York Fashion Week might have ended a few days ago but we still can’t shake the excitement from the week. That’s why, with the help of photographer Nick Merzetti, we’re taking a look behind the scenes to showcase some of the designers and collections that caught our eyes this season. First up is Kollar, the label helmed by Canadian-based founder and design director David Kollar. Kollar offered a Big Apple collection inspired by the city’s underground nightlife scene in the ’90s. This was the label’s first NYFW showing, presenting a series of dark, streetwear-inspired looks ultimately, despite their influences, unlinked from time. Among those pieces were black leather jackets and thick white turtlenecks, all coming together to create edgy yet versatile looks. Dirty Pineapple kept its subversive spirit alive once more this fashion week. Taking narcissism as a standpoint, the brand presented a highly wearable collection that questioned fashion nature’s very being. The vibrant colour palette, with striking blues and yellows, was contrasted by leather accent pieces. For Sukeina, the label run by Senegalese designer Omar Salam, NYFW was just another opportunity to experiment. This time, fringe, ruffles and abstract ruffles reigned supreme,… Read more »
backstage buzz | pitti uomo aw2020
The new year has only just begun, and we’ve already got menswear on the mind. While Milan Fashion Week Men’s is currently in full swing, other Italian fashion destinations are calling our names. That’s why we recently took a trip southward to see this season of Pitti Uomo, the biannual menswear event in Florence, Italy. Now that the event is over, Schön! is giving you a backstage look at two shows that stuck in our memory, all with the help of photographer Eeva Suutari. Naturally, we have to mention Jil Sander. Designers Lucie and Luke Meier, co-creative directors of the brand since 2017, were Guest Designers for the event, and they took the opportunity to showcase their latest menswear collection for the Autumn/Winter 2020 season. This collection was defined by its geometry and tailoring. Classics are reconfigured, with certain elements enlarged or extended to dramatic effect; one can look to the extra-long knit vests or lengthy polo shirts for examples of this. In other areas, this idea of classic reconfiguration was taken in a different direction, instead reducing the pieces to their core elements; the removal of lapels across the collection was a noteworthy touch. Other aspects of note were… Read more »
backstage buzz | head genève 2019
Schön! and photographer Raphaëlle Mueller head behind the scenes at HEAD Genève to capture students, teachers, models, make up artists and hairstylists as they prepare to put on a spectacular show. Earlier this month, over 2,000 people filled the impressive catwalk space at HEAD Genève to witness the creativity and craftsmanship of its talented students. Since its formation in 2006, HEAD has become a centre of excellence in art and design, boasting world-class facilities at its stunning campus in Geneva’s city centre. Its bachelors and masters degrees cover fine art, cinema, interior architecture, visual communication and, of course, fashion and accessory design. It’s no surprise then that HEAD’s annual fashion show draws such a crowd. This year, guests came from all over Europe to watch 17 BA and 9 MA graduates present 318 outfits worn by 76 models. The sets were also notable. Designed by BA Graduate Paulo Jorge Diaz and developed by current architecture students, they were inspired by Geneva’s Les Bains des Pâquis. It’s also no wonder that the judging panel this year included luminaries such as the Creative Directors of Nina Ricci and representatives from brands such as Chanel and Loewe/LVMH. Three prizes were handed out: The… Read more »
backstage buzz | paris fashion week ss20 pt. two
To round off our Paris Fashion Week backstage coverage, we’re taking you behind the scenes with photographer YU Nagai. First off, we’re off to Shiatzy Chen. The Taiwanese brand presented a colourful yet on brand collection at the French capital and the backstage scene was as lively as the show itself. Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient presented a larger-than-life collection for OTTOLINGER. The maison offered a grandiose showing rounded off by equality impressive hair and make up. Indian designer Manish Arora created an explosion of colour for its Parisienne showing. With colour and pattern galore, Arora made sure to have something for everyone and the theatricality of the show was, of course, present behind the curtains as well. To close off the season, we’re taking you behind the scene at Anrealage — this time with a different photographer. School’s back in session and the brands knows it well. Check out the part one of our backstage coverage here. photography. YU Nagai Schön! Magazine is now available in print at Amazon, as ebook download + on any mobile device
backstage buzz | paris fashion week ss20 pt. one
Another week of fashion month, another destination on Schön!’s list. This season, we’ve already taken you backstage at New York and Milan and, this time, it’s Paris turn. To conclude our fashion week coverage, we’re taking you behind the scenes at some the hottest shows of the Paris route with photographer Nick Merzetti. First on our list is Indian designer Rahul Mishra. For SS20, Mishra took over Paris with textures — from floral patterns to skyscraper motifs. With a predominantly monochrome colour palette, Mishra dazzled again on the catwalk; pastel pinks liven up the scene. The devil was definitely in the detail during Mishra’s showing, where delicate and immaculate embroidery took centre stage. Victoria & Tomas brought out the colour for its Spring 2020 show. The French ready-to-wear house, helmed by Latvian designer Victoria Feldman and Russian Tomas Berzins, presented both of both worlds. The Parisian inspiration dominated both the colour palette and angular silhouettes, but a global wearer was definitely in the duo’s mind. Kunihiko Morinaga took us back to school at Anrealage. offering his own take of the school uniform, the Japanese designer presented a sobre collection, in terms of colour, that got revamped with oversized silhouettes…. Read more »
backstage buzz | milan fashion week ss20 pt. two
Part two of our backstage coverage of Milan Fashion Week SS2020 is here! Yet again we’re taking you behind the scenes, and this time, we’re doing it through the eyes of photographer YU Nagai and featuring labels Act N°1, Aigner, Annakiki and more. Our first stop is all about layers, layers, and layers. Atsushi Nakashima’s showing at Milan Fashion Week was a patchwork of influences — quite literally. Under the title “Clairvoyance,” the designer employed a range of fabrics and graphics from around the world, almost as though he was attempting to tap into a global consciousness. Hues were mainly dark, though sporadic vibrant colours found their way into select pieces. The latest collection from Act N°1, founded by Luca Lin and Galib Gassanoff, recalled the designers’ roots in China and Azerbaijan respectively. Recounting styles from their childhoods, the two designers created a dynamic collection that reworked a range of classic silhouettes. While robe coats and sartorial jackets gave certain pieces a sense of prim and properness, heavy metal piercings and blunt jewellery showed the collection’s firm grasp of modern counterculture. Next up is AIGNER. This season, the brand brought a new series of bags to Milan Fashion Week centred… Read more »
backstage buzz | milan fashion week ss20 pt. one
Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 has officially come to an end. The week had its share of viral moments on the runways — we’re sure to remember J-Lo and Donatella Versace showing for quite some time — but for now, Schön! is ready to take you behind the scenes again with photographer Giulia Mantovani for an exclusive backstage look. Beginning our backstage journey is Alberta Ferretti, who offered a vibrant, vintage-inspired Spring/Summer 2020 collection. While works in this collection may be deeply influenced by the hues and styles of the ’70s, there is an undoubtedly youthful spirit that carries through each piece, ensuring that this vintage inspiration never teeters on mere nostalgia — or worse, parody. Butterfly motifs and patchwork denim made for memorable pieces. Moving from daywear, Ferretti’s evening wear faded from blue to black, inspired by artist Fabrizio Plessi. These too had elements of playfulness, with offerings arousing feelings of movement through craft and careful embellishment. Continuing on, the next designer from the week we’re focusing on is Arthur Arbesser. For Arbesser’s SS20 collection, he rooted his thinking in a collection of fabric swatches he inherited from his Romanian-born grandmother. According to the designer, his grandmother had… Read more »
backstage buzz | nyfw ss20 pt. four
New York Fashion Week continues and Schön! is here to cover it. We’re returning backstage with our photographers Andee Maher and Ashley Gallerani to give you a behind-the-scenes look of the goings-on of the week. This time, labels Custo Barcelona and Zimmermann take centre stage. After signing a licensing agreement with Italian manufacturer Velmar, the fashion world was waiting with bated breath to see what the striking of such a deal meant for label Custo Barcelona. “Wet Paint,” the collection presented at this year’s New York Fashion Week, is their answer. Bright and lively pieces feature linear silhouettes that play on geometric forms. Additionally, NYFW saw the relaunch of a Custo Barcelona menswear line, hinting at big changes for the Spanish brand. Lastly, we’re giving you a not-so-behind-the-scenes look at Zimmermann‘s show. Escaping the creeping chill of autumn, viewers were whisked to a summer wonderland. Zimmermann’s Spring-Summer collection is filled with intricate, lacy, flowing pieces perfect for the June and July sun. Pinks and marigolds breathed life into the collection, colours apparently inspired by Zimmermann’s childhood experiences in the Sydney summertime. Along with these pieces were more relaxed, tomboy-inspired works, featuring loose-hanging pieces and oversized fits. Discover more… Read more »
backstage buzz | nyfw ss20 pt. three
New York Fashion Week is still in full swing and for part three of our ongoing coverage photographer Mark Elzey takes us behind the scenes at some of the event’s most anticipated shows: Pyer Moss and Deveaux. The Kerby Jean-Raymond-helmed Pyer Moss did not disappoint with Collection 3. Showing at Flatbush’s Kings Theatre and set to an impressive live soundtrack by The Pyer Moss Tabernacle Drip Choir Drenched in The Blood, the show was as grandiose as you’d expect from the designer — and, of course, the clothes followed suit. Featuring familiar faces like Schön! 33 alum Caleb McLaughlin, models strutted down the runway clad in an array of pieces — from puffa jackets to flowy shirts to sparkling bodysuits. Colour and texture were key in Pyer Moss‘s latest offering, which shined bright both on the runway and behind the scenes as did Jean-Raymond’s message and legacy. Tommy Ton’s Deveaux also opted for a live music performance this season — favouring Janet Jackson’s “Love Will Never Do.” For his second collection behind the brand, the street style photographer turned creative director pulled out all the stops. Featuring perhaps NYFW most diverse group of models, the catwalk was the epitome… Read more »
backstage buzz | nyfw ss20 pt. two
For part two of our NYFW coverage, we’re returning backstage with photographer Andee Maher to show you what’s upcoming for Spring/Summer 2020. This time, we’re focusing on East Asian designers, showcasing the latest from Chinese brand DAMOWANG and a range of Korean designers featured in the Korean-government sponsored “Concept Korea” event, to Shanghai-based streetwear label Dirty Pineapple. DAMOWANG is a Chinese label launched in 2015 by designer Da Mo (Han Lei). For over a decade, Da Mo worked in various parts of the Chinese fashion industry; now, he’s emerging as a womenswear designer in his own right, creating pieces that he claims connect the wearer to a real, living environment. This plays a role in the label’s SS20 collection, which features wood-print textiles and earthy hues. “Concept Korea” is an event sponsored by the Korean government with the intent of promoting Korean designers outside of the country. The event has been a part of New York Fashion Week for many years running; this year, the showcase focused on two main talents: IISE and LIE. IISE mixes street style with Korean heritage. With a name that translates to “second generation,” the brand produces designs utilising both traditional and modern crafting techniques…. Read more »
backstage buzz | nyfw ss20 pt. one
It seems like only yesterday that we brought you backstage for New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2019. But as the days get shorter and we unpack our jumpers, it’s nice to think about what we have upcoming for the Spring/Summer 2020 season, and there’s no better place to do that than New York. Schön! was, of course, on the ground getting behind-the-scenes shots of the best of the beginning of the week. Join us as we look through the eyes of photography duo Andee Maher and Ashley Gallerani to get an exclusive view of what’s hot on the New York runways. Kicking off our coverage is THREEGUN, a brand featured as part of the Tmall China Cool portion of NYFW. Tmall China Cool, sponsored by Alibaba-helmed premium Chinese retailer Tmall, highlights designers from China who innovate and create high-quality, interesting designs. This series is now in its 3rd edition and THREEGUN shows the strength of Tmall’s mission with this series. While unfamiliar to many in the west, THREEGUN is a heritage intimate apparel label in China that has been producing top-quality sleep and loungewear since the 1930s. For this collection, the brand collaborated with designer Chuang Qu, who centred the… Read more »
backstage buzz | mbfw madrid
From July 5 to 10, fashion took over Madrid to celebrate the 71st edition of the biannual Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. Held for the most part at IFEMA, for the Spring/Summer 2020 occasion, the Spanish capital served as the humble abode for rising talent and established designers to showcase their work. As the event comes to a close, Schön! and photographer Ana Martínez take you behind the scenes at MBFW Madrid to soak up the backstage buzz at two of the event’s best shows first hand. Womenswear brand The 2nd Skin Co. gave us a masterclass on drapery, playing proportion and construction, with its SS20 proposal. With the collection, entitled Atelier Madrid, designers Antonio Burillo and Juan Carlos Fernández showcased balance and poise — the colour palette ranging from pastels to bright pinks. As the name itself indicates, the designs focused on the house’s craftwork itself, all the while highlighting the idiosyncrasies of Madrid that permeate through the brand. Inside seams were visible, showcasing the work and labour put into each garment at the forefront. Next, we take you to the world of María Ke Fisherman— the dynamic brand helmed by designers María Lemus and Víctor Alonso…. Read more »
backstage buzz | 080 barcelona fashion ss20
Schön! and photographer David Garcia head backstage at 080 Barcelona Fashion, to capture the SS20 collections from the Catalan capital. For more information on 080 Barcelona Fashion, click here. Check out our full report for this season here. photography. David Garcia Schön! Magazine is now available in print at Amazon, as ebook download + on any mobile device
backstage buzz | paris fashion week men’s ss20
As the men’s portion of Paris Fashion Week draws to a close, rants, raves and reviews come pouring in from media around the world. For our part, Schön! has gone backstage with photographer Ada Yang to bring you the most exciting looks of the week, including shows from White Mountaineering, CMMN SWDN, Christian Dada and more. White Mountaineering kicks off our backstage coverage with an eclectic mix of athleisure streetwear. Yosuke Aizawa, the Tokyo-based designer behind the brand, explained that his pieces carry a “discord ambience,” which in this collection means mashing up elements of outerwear and activewear with bold patterns and the occasional odd silhouette – all rounded out with complexly layered White Mountaineering trainers. Up next is CMMN SWDN. CMMN SWDN stemmed from an experience husband-and-wife team Emma and Saif Bakir had while setting up Kanye West’s Paris studio. Since then, the duo has developed the brand out of Malmö — incorporating Swedish design aesthetics with elements from their Iraqi heritage and beyond. These influences are in full force for this collection, which uses Middle Eastern tiling patterns and layered leaf elements alongside boxy outerwear and knitted devoré pieces. Continuing on, Japanese brand Christian… Read more »
backstage buzz | london fashion week men’s ss20
London Fashion Week Men’s is over, and naturally with its end comes a flurry of reviews, reactions and looks from backstage. For our part, with photographer Ada Yang, we’re taking you behind-the-scenes for two shows that caught our eye this week – the first, an exciting modernisation of traditional Chinese garb from London-based designer Feng Chen Wang, and the second, a military-inspired show from United Arab Emirates-born designer Khalid Al Qasimi’s house Qasimi. Finding inspiration in her hometown, Feng Chen Wang incorporated patterns and fabrication techniques known in China for generations. Selections from traditional wear find their way into her designs. In several pieces, a special type of tie-dyed fabric known as “Lanyinhuabu” was used. Wang became aware of this from her grandmother, localising her inspiration. Even finding this fabric wasn’t easy, Wang claims. Press from the Fashion Week says she visited five villages to find only two workshops that still produce the fabric. The result is an artisan-crafted textile dyed with a mix of soybean and lime chalk crafted by Wang into contemporary wear, making for an interesting and unorthodox collection. Completing each look were sneakers from the Feng Chen Wang x Converse collaboration. Tensions in the Middle East… Read more »
backstage buzz | paris fashion week aw19
After New York, London, and Milan, it was finally Paris’ turn to congregate the fashion elites in the French capital. Schön! and photographer Francisco Gomez de Villaboa take you backstage at Paris Fashion Week to give you a hands-on opportunity to soak in the backstage buzz from Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood and Guy Laroche. Stay tuned for our full round ups to get the full scoop on PFW’s best catwalks. Find out more information about Paris Fashion Week here. photography. Francisco Gomez de Villaboa Schön! Magazine is now available in print at Amazon, as ebook download + on any mobile device
backstage buzz | london fashion week aw19 pt. two
As you probably know if you’ve been following our London Fashion Week coverage, this year has been a flurry of colour, big personalities and new styles. For this series, photographed by Jordan Eisbjerg, we’re continuing our explorations backstage to get glimpses of what’s to come out of London and beyond. First on our list is Bethany Williams. Sustainability has been a buzzword in the fashion world as of late, but for Bethany, it’s about more than just having a “sustainable” label on her collection. Outside of the fashion world, Bethany works in food banks, homeless shelters and with other community outreach programs to better the world. All of her fabrics and materials are recycled, and her pieces are often crafted with the assistance of charity groups – in all cases, a portion of the proceeds are donated back to charity. This collection, called “No Address Needed to Join”, is also made from organic and recycled materials, with bright reds, blues, and yellows forming upscale fashion with a heavy street influence. For her efforts, Williams was presented with the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design at this year’s London Fashion Week. Izzue made their LFW debut this year, making them… Read more »
backstage buzz | london fashion week aw19
Continuing our behind-the-scenes coverage from New York Fashion Week, it’s time to take a trip across the pond to see what’s going on in the world of London Fashion Week, photographed by Jordan Eisbjerg. Today, we’re focusing on designers Pam Hogg, René Garza and the team of Jerri Moore + Clarence Lee. Venus in Phurr was the name and promise of Pam Hogg’s show at this London Fashion Week, and it’s a promise the collection delivered on. Drawing inspiration from BDSM attire and culture, whips, studs, chains and PVC played alongside velvet and thigh-high lace-up boots in a provocative collection that left little to the imagination. Some outfits featured faux-fur nipple patches and landing strips, while others were entirely meshed and sheer, relying on the word “Venus” emblazoned across the front to cover any sensitive areas. Design team Jerri Moore + Clarence Lee, part of the Houston, Texas-based non-profit Magpies & Peacocks, showcased their latest offerings as part of Fashion Scout, an indie runway event devoted to international and innovative fashion. Magpies & Peacocks emphasises sustainability and reusing fabrics, a theme Jerri Moore + Clarence Lee’s works embraced. The collection, entitled “Undone: the New Americana”, sourced fabrics from every source… Read more »
backstage buzz | 080 barcelona fashion aw19
From the colourful creations of Mans Concept & Menswear to the glitz and glamour of Custo Barcelona, there’s always plenty to see at 080 Barcelona Fashion. Join Schön! and photographer David Garcia as we explore the energy and excitement backstage at the 23rd edition. Read our full report on the season here. For more information about 080 Barcelona Fashion click here. photography. David Garcia words. Huma Humayun Schön! Magazine is now available in print at Amazon, as ebook download + on any mobile device
backstage buzz | london fashion week graduate shows
Schön! welcomes you backstage for another London Fashion Week, shot by photographer Jordan Eisbjerg. This time, we’re looking to the future to showcase the up-and-coming designers of Central Saint Martins and the University of Westminster. Current industry trends and explosions of independent inspiration blended in both collections. Ranging from political to spiritual, vintage-influenced to future-breaking, pieces on display showed promise and drummed up excitement for students’ futures in the industry. Here’s a glimpse of what was going on backstage. University of Westminster BA students making their LFW debut honed their skills over the past year working in the industry, contributing their talents to companies like Burberry, Maison Margiela and Louis Vuitton. As experienced as they are, showing at LFW is still a daunting task for the group; the University of Westminster is the only school to have showcased collections from undergraduates. With bright ruffles by Bruna Ignatowska and the seafaring swagger of pieces by Glenn Wigham, diverse offerings made this show an intriguing watch. Streetwear by Anna McKernan brought in elements from British youth culture with added internationality – a notable and memorable inclusion in the show. At the Central Saint Martins show, organised in conjunction with L’Oréal Professional, MA students… Read more »
backstage buzz | new york fashion week aw19 pt. 2
The whirlwind that was NYFW is over, and while we prepare for what London Fashion Week has in store, let’s take a look back at some of our favourite backstage moments from the week, captured by photographer Nick Merzetti. First up is Chinese streetwear retailer and producer New Project Center (NPC), who celebrated its tenth anniversary with a collection of space-inspired neon outerwear, ponchos and bumbags. NPC has been a leading institution in Chinese streetwear for years, so it’s only natural that they are included in this year’s New York Fashion Week China Day. Beginning in 2009 as a project of entertainment show host Li Chen and pop singer Wilber Pan, the brand has since grown into one of the largest fashion retailers in China. Their mission is evident in the New Project Center name; Chen and Pan see their stores and collections as spaces for streetwear enthusiasts to explore and experiment, drawing attention to China’s streetwear scene by pushing local brands and bringing in fashions from around the world. Next is Oscar De La Renta. A brand known for its formal attire, house designers Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim took New York Fashion Week as an opportunity to modernise and… Read more »
backstage buzz | new york fashion week aw19
It’s New York Fashion Week time again, which means kicking off the new year by seeing the latest and greatest of what New York has to offer. Schön! went behind-the-scenes with photographer Nick Merzetti to catch a glimpse of the backstage buzz. Here’s what we saw. Laurence and Chico showcased their signature over-the-top flair in their Autumn/Winter 2019 collection. Inspired by the duo’s recent holiday to Thailand, big hair and bold colours filled the runway for a collection that was as innovative as it was playful. The duo utilised and reinterpreted elements of Thai culture and cuisine, forming stripes, floral designs and more into silhouettes connected to traditional Thai daywear. Paired with these looks were flashes of pronounced makeup and hair. With a trademark sense of humour, Laurence and Chico’s show mixed tradition with an added sense of whimsy. Striking yet simple, Dirty Pineapple’s showing at New York Fashion Week offered basics infused with a forward-thinking sensibility and, of course, the brand’s trademark yellow. A series of loose-fitting and highly adaptable pieces made for a memorable collection. Primarily genderless in form, Dirty Pineapple mixed classic pieces with interesting colour and fabrics, including patterned scarves and silk blazers. For French-Japanese designer Sylvie… Read more »
backstage buzz | altaroma
The latest edition of Altaroma, which counts Fendi and Valentino amongst its supporters, focused on emerging talent and independent labels while maintaining a bond with heritage brands such as Malo. The new headquarters in the 5,000 square metre PratiBus District (formerly a bus depot) housed two main runways, an exhibition space and an atelier. With the addition of catwalks and events around the ‘Eternal City’, Altaroma showcased more than 100 Italian and international designers, encompassing everything from college students to couturiers. Schön! and photographer Massimiliano Moretti headed backstage to capture the energy of this Italian affair. Find more information about AltaRoma here. photography. Massimiliano Moretti words. Huma Humayun Schön! Magazine is now available in print at Amazon, as ebook download + on any mobile device
backstage buzz | paris fashion week men’s aw19
As the fashion calendar dictates, this season’s menswear shows came to a close this past weekend and, as usual, Paris took the spot as the last host. Schön! and photographers Francisco Gomez de Villaboa and Ada Yang take you backstage at Paris Fashion Week Men’s to give you a hands-on opportunity to soak in the backstage buzz from the Paris season and get the full scope on the best catwalks. Cerruti‘s AW19 menswear show did not disappoint. Once again, Jason Basmajian sent a collection of tailored silhouettes down the runaway. With a predominantly muted palette, Basmajian managed to wittily play with texture and layers to create the ultimate winter wardrobe. Pinstripes suits and khaki bomber jackets stole the show walking down the runaway but asymmetric cuts and a splash of leather also made a deserved appearance. With this season’s collection, Basmajian refines the Maison’s heritage with an urban and contemporary twist in which sportswear meets tailoring. At Issey Miyake, designer Yusuke Takahashi presented a colourful collection that had all of Miyake’s own trademark elements: tailoring, structure and simplicity. With the minimalist approach, Takahashi created a clean yet practical and vivid presentation. The selection of fabrics was exquisite, faithful to the Japanese Maison’s ways, but… Read more »
backstage buzz | milan moda uomo aw19
It’s one of the most important annual events in men’s fashion. Milano Moda Uomo set the tone for menswear and kicked off a stylish start into the new year this week and Schön!, of course, was there to witness the steeziest and savviest contributions to fashion. We went backstage with photographer Luisa Pagani at two of our Milano faves, Nº21 and Les Hommes, where we got the backstage buzz on what went down. Les Hommes presented cool protective wear for the modern cityscape. With a nod to sportswear, it maintained a thoughtful sophistication perfect for the young gentleman. Styling gave an astro flair to the thoughtful elegance and all accessories, from the oversized sunglasses down to the embellished man bags, were urban essentials. Nº21 made a statement with exquisite tailoring. Sleek silhouettes, clean colour palettes and minimal accessories elegantly spoke the language of ‘less is more’. It’s a refreshingly modest approach to luxury which keeps class and taste at the forefront, creating pieces that are meant to be worn instead of wearing you. So tailoring is making a comeback? We think it never left. Each season Milano Moda Uomo reminds us that power dressing beats casual flex. High fashion and… Read more »
backstage buzz | london fashion week men’s aw19 part 2
This week, London opened the year’s fashion circuit with the much-awaited London Fashion Week Men’s. The city is not only a fashion capital but a world hub for hype and street culture, where industry heavyweights and young creatives speak an unmistakable design language that translates both onto the street and the runway. Schön! teamed up with photographer Jordan Eisbjerg to give you a backstage peek at some of the most exciting LFWM shows. Designer-duo JORDANLUCA’s show was certainly buzzworthy. On a backdrop of mattresses and unmade beds, the collection gave an undulated (almost anthropological) look into the young male and his vices. Intense structure blends seamlessly with raw intensity in these remarkable looks. Combining streetwear and luxury, Per Götesson fluidly reimagined menswear silhouettes this season. Functional details meet playful accessorising and sensual glimpses of skin. It’s a measured alternative to what classic fashion dictates men should wear and we think we love it. #RemadeinEngland RÆBURN, whose brainchild is British designer Christopher Raeburn, showcases the edgiest and most luxurious upcycle fashion has to offer. With deconstructed workwear looks and a bold streetwear ethos, the runway was overrun with pieces we want to cop. This season, the designer collaborated with iconic brand Timberland. London has created a… Read more »
backstage buzz | london fashion week men’s aw19
New Year, New Fashion. As fashion tradition dictates, the start of the new year brings forth the Autumn Winter 2019 menswear collections and first up, it was LFWM‘s turn. To make sure you get the best from the AW19 collections, Schön! and photographer Jordan Eisbjerg take you backstage at some of the most buzz-worthy shows from the past weekend. The first show in our backstage roundup comes from Chinese designer Xander Zhou. As a self-titled humanoidwear designer, Zhou looked to the future to envision his latest collection. Taking inspiration from genetic modification and artificial intelligence, Zhou’s designs were both maximalist and minimalist, futurist yet contemporary and, in all, exquisite. As expected, British designer Bobby Abley took to pop culture once again for inspiration. This time, it was the Japanese global phenomenon known as Pokémon what took over Abley’s designs. His trademark graphic elements were still present in the form of playful dungarees and an ample selection of co-ords with Pokémon icons like Pikachu, Charmander and Squirtle all making an appearance in patterns. Of course, Abley also looked to Xtina’s Dirrty era for inspiration. London-based Cottweiler, with designers Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty at the helm, turned green for 2019 (quite literally). With a palette ranging from neon to camo, Cottrell and Dainty… Read more »
backstage buzz | nyfw ss19 part 2
This season, the Big Apple again played host to the biggest event in fashion, with dazzling shows and parties taking place all over the city. Schön! was there dashing across town to give you a backstage look at what went down at some of our favourite shows, with photographer Joe Jagos capturing the buzz behind the scenes at Angel Chen, Han Wen, Libertine, Moon Choi and Particle Fever. Angel Chen’s NYFW debut was fresh. With a keen eye for colour, print and movement, the collection youthfully combined rich textures and exaggerated silhouettes creating an unmistakable edge and attitude. At the launch of Han Wen’s SS19 collection, the clothes veritably spoke for themselves. The designs were showcased on an installation of mannequins as a party took place around the pieces. Han Wen created a setting for his chic, summery collection to directly interact with the party-goers and the city. Libertine shows always flaunt quirkiness, and this season was no exception. The cheeky brand graced us with increasingly outrageous appliques, stickers and prints. Bling and excitement once again completed the Libertinesque look both on the runway and in the rows of Libertine-faithfuls who came to see the show. Moon Choi’s first presentation… Read more »
backstage buzz | new york fashion week SS19
New York Fashion Week is always one to watch and this Spring/Summer 19 season did not disappoint with a taste of the newest trends and innovations at the forefront of fashion and style. Prestigious brands and fashion newcomers alike brought their A-game with runways that were increasingly streetwear-focused and steezy. Schön!, of course, was there to give you an exclusive look backstage at the names you should know for 2019 and some of the most exciting shows NYFW had to offer. Schön! photographer Zhamak Fullad captured the flamboyant behind the scenes antics of VFiles Runway 10. The street-wise brand showcased emerging talent with a vision that taps into the creative youth. The clothes performed loud and proud, featuring exaggerated colours and extravagant streetwear staples to be obsessed with. The Eckhaus Latta SS19 show reiterated the fashion house’s aesthetic sensibility. The idiosyncratic collection featured in these Sara Julia Waller backstage shots offered refined tailoring and textured silhouettes juxtaposed against the backdrop of a children’s orchestra. The looks were equally playful and serene, exemplifying the brand’s artistic growth. Dion Lee convinces us that the ultimate fashion faux-pas is a must-have in SS19. Silk suits, lace detailing and lingerie accents, pictured here in… Read more »
backstage buzz | 080 Barcelona Fashion
Schön! and photographer David Garcia dive backstage at 080 Barcelona Fashion to capture the endless energy of some of the best models in the business. Whether sporting swimwear or rubber masks, these boys and girls take the Iberian heat in their stride. Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage at kenzo | paris fashion week men’s ss19
Paris’ Spring/Summer 2019 edition of the men’s shows came to a close with Kenzo’s now ritualistic event — a firm favourite in ten calendar — that promised to allow us to come together to celebrate unity and solidarity in a collection centred around peace. It’s certainly not the first that Kenzo has chosen to comment political and social realities — bringing a positive and empowering alternative to a status quo marred with conflict and crisis. Floating gardens greeted guests as they entered, casting a poetic, oneiric vision over the cool, shadowy dreamscape. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim were setting their scene for their harbour of tranquillity. The clothes, in true Kenzo style, were a colourful, bold collage of textures and textiles — boyish figures floated in oversized workwear, reinvented with a pop palette of orange, blue, green. The polka dots, nylons and florals constituted a musical composition, striking a visual chord in the multiplicity of colours, themes, patterns. ‘Harmony’ was a keyword that encapsulated the two collections — womenswear and menswear — and to the tunes of Chicago band the Hypnotic Brass Ensemble, the playful side of fashion unravelled as a truly promising future, one where optimism can be a constructive way forward. We couldn’t think… Read more »
backstage buzz | paris fashion week men’s
Schön! and photographer Luisa Pagani take you behind the scenes at one of the biggest menswear fashion events. Soak in the backstage buzz from some of the most memorable moments of the season and get the full scope on the most talked about catwalks. Sportswear met the Riviera at the Cerruti SS19 Menswear show. Pants were fabric full with front pleats and skinny belts to tie them down; arms had excess fabric and were held in place at mid-bicep while oversized rain garments were tucked at the front and liberated at the back. Shorts had wide elastic over the waist, similar to a boxer’s fighting garb. The colour palette was refined and neutral, stripes crept in on oversized blazers and jackets, hinting to the sea, while camouflage also made scattered appearances throughout the show. Styling featured pulled back hair, round sunglasses and beach slides. However, it was the consistently superb fit of each garment that made this show truly outstanding. The SS19 Henrik Vibskov show began with a flying start. Performers entered the centre of the runway in matching jumpsuits to unveil a range of larger than life calico propellers. A repetitive mechanical soundtrack filled the show space while models entered at… Read more »
backstage buzz | milano moda uomo
As the summer season rolls in, so do the Spring Summer 2019 menswear collections. After the sensitivity and spiritualism that characterized LFWM, this past weekend it was Milan’s turn. The Italian fashion capital wasn’t short of talent and innovative ideas: from Astro-futuristic attires and streetwear, to clean lines and immaculate tailoring. Schön! takes you backstage at some of the most buzz-worthy collections from the weekend. Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM epitomised the essence of summer with this collection. Going back to his childhood and his own home of Rimini, referenced directly in one jumper, the collection was filled with nostalgia. Touristy palm prints, fruity and floral patterns, photographic retroelements and stills from the now anime cult classic Attacker You!, all made their way into the jumpers, tracksuits and t-shirts. Faithfull to the MSGM ethos, acid colours were dominant in the collection, particularly neons, intertwined with more parred down pieces in black, camel and denim. Titled “Recovery”, Francesco Ragazzi’s SS19 for Palm Angels saw the house teaming up with acclaimed sportswear brand Under Armour. With sportswear and streetwear as the main angles, Palm Angels presented a wearable collection with hues of Americana and quasi-futuristic yet mod touches — as seen in the tiny… Read more »
backstage at shanghai fashion week | aw18
CJ Yao Schön! and photographer Joseph Jagos take you behind the scenes at one of the rising events of the fashion sphere: Shanghai Fashion Week. Soak in the backstage buzz from some of the most memorable moments of the season: from Wan Hung‘s matching puppy sweaters to Private Policy‘s edgy street allure and Deep Moss‘ arachnid sophistication. Private Policy Wan Hung Deep Moss Hai Zhen Wang Chen Peng Find out more information about Shanghai Fashion Week here. photography. Joseph Jagos Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage #pfw | ann demeulemeester
Ann Demeulemeester presented a provocative, rebellious, dense A/W 2018 collection of strong and dark leather motifs mixed with sexy silhouettes of short black and ultraviolet skirts and aesthetically gathered and draped layered white tops. Black jumpsuits with high waistline were covered by long coats with double collars and amended by corsets with leather belts put atop. Alongside the sexiest Gothic-oriented designs made by Sébastien Meunier for Ann Demeulemeester, the runway was lit by the already-proclaimed the coolest accessory of the season – above the elbow black leather gloves with wide lapels. Photography / Alice Berg Words / Isale Noiré Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage #pfw | yohji yamamoto
‘Mon Cher Azzedine’: Japanese genius Yohji Yamamoto truly created a piece of art in homage to his best friend and main source of inspiration for this season, Azzedine Alaïa, the Tunisian-French designer who passed away last year. His effervescent collection was fortified with voluminous twice-layered double-breasted coats, sculpted kimono sleeves and wide collars, leather corsets and jackets. Being not only close friends but fashion soulmates, Yamamoto once again utilised elements characteristic of Alaïa’s collections: the suppressing complication of construction, blindness devotion to black (in designs and inspirations), tons of fabrics, complicated draped designs and equivocation to all but their inner circle of people to whom bot Alaïa’s and Yamamoto’s beliefs and fashions are not temporary but constant. Photography / Mélanie Rey Words / Isale Noiré Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage #pfw | leonard paris
On the surface, Leonard Paris‘ A/W 2018 collection was an organized mess, in a positive way. Designer Christine Phung replaced the signature romantic flower looks with more discreet and serious sporty outfits. Using bold plain colours – crimson, burgundy, ochre, navy, black and white – and mixing them with flower patterns mostly printed in violet, light blue, and purple colours, she focused on the image of an urban chic-loving woman of our time. Phung presented the public with wearable puffer jackets, quilted coats and bombers made of alpaca and mohair, voluminous parkas, oversized jumpsuits, jersey kimono-inspired robes, patterned silk skirts and suede high boots. Photography / Mélanie Rey Words / Isale Noiré Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage #pfw | christian wijnants
A devotee of simplicity, Christian Wijnants proved again this season that less is indeed more —remaining faithful to the brand’s ethos since its launch almost 15 years ago. Flaunting a discrete colour palette with pale sky blue and ochre accents, Wijnants’ Autumn/Winter 2018 collection was a beautiful balance of comfy voluminous sweaters, well-fit parkas and pleated skirts with fringe tops; where smart combinations of branded flower patterns and monocoloured leather pieces took the spotlight. This season, the designer focused on innovative fabric development and stitching detailing —presenting one of his signature prints lacquered in wax to make it water-resistant. Photography / Mélanie Rey Words / Isale Noiré Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage #pfw | manish arora
Manish Arora turned his Autumn/Winter 2018 runway collection into a crazy rampage of colours and an impressive game of shapes and patterns. Sweaters with “Pink and Gold is my Religion” slogans, glittering pink lilies and chrysanthemums on wide heapy trousers and voluminous skirts, cherry blossom brocades on bombers and coats and motifs of koi fishes, butterflies, starbursts, and flowers made the minds of the people attending the show explode. This season, Arora decided not to tie or somehow limit his creative ego’s appetite —every look proving to be even more impressive than the prior: from polyester jumpers with volcanic eruptions and denim skirts supplemented by a thin layer of poisonous orange tulle to midi dark blue glitter dress with mind-blowing drawings of white bunnies, or the Chinese emoji Tuzki (lucky symbol of Mr. Arora). Photography / Mélanie Rey Words / Isale Noiré Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage at #lfw | aw18
Ryan Lo Schön! and photographer Stella Morais take you behind the scenes at one of the eminences of the fashion sphere worldwide: London Fashion Week. Soak in the backstage buzz from some of the most memorable moments of the season: from Nicola Formichetti‘s exquisitely irreverent Nicopanda to Mark Fast‘s simple sophistication. Nicopanda Emilio de la Morena Eudon Choi Toga Mark Fast Ashish Fyodor Golan Steven Tai Find out more information about London Fashion Week here. Photography / Stella Morais Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage #nyfw | kaimin
All eyes were on the merkin mohawk at designer Kaimin’s hair-raising spectacle that redefined ‘pussy power’. Punk rock platforms paraded the runway navigating models outfitted in conceptual metallic jackets with futuristic pointed shoulders. Private parts were covered with shaggy ebony wigs and under fishnet, gowns peaked barren décolletés where breasts were concealed with black tape. It was a risqué, rebellious garden of trimmed hedges and iridescent silhouettes that were pruned like billowing spaceships. Photography / Natalie Nieves Words / Chloe Rash Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage #nyfw | christian cowan
A neon heartbeat against an over-the-knee florid mink coat in an electrifying show-and-tell stampede at Christian Cowan. The sprightly British designer showed exuberant sparkling silhouettes that told the story of streetwise women unafraid to reveal some skin. High-waisted black chaps and monochromatic feathered minidresses preceded paillettes gowns accessorized with sequined party hats proving that Cowan is never late to the soirée, instead, he’s the one making the guest list. Photography / Mark Elzey Words / Chloe Rash Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage #nyfw | jill stuart
On the surface, Jill Stuart’s Autumn/Winter 2018 collection was rather hush-hush. Held at the exclusive National Arts Club in Gramercy, Stuart’s speakeasy was fueled by femme fatales dressed in romantic ruffled blouses with a Victorian-Bohemian edge. The iconic American designer’s metallic florid patterns and corseted belts were deliciously subdued, yet her collection screamed effeminate expression. Stained glass windows delineated a sense of jazzy catharsis magnified in velveteen tricoloured frocks. Photography / Mark Elzey Words / Chloe Rash Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage #nyfw | collina strada
A tremor of nostalgia whirled in the floaty chiffon seams at Collina Strada. Designer Hillary Taymour constructed a unisex world that was both reflective and strikingly personal. Using a muted pastel palette, Taymour’s balletic ode to age was best mirrored in velveteen tangerine textures and translucent wrinkled sleeves. Every crease and every leopard underpinning unravelled the complexities of growing older, revisiting one’s intrinsic need to hang on to the jauntiness of juvenescence as identified in furrowed plaid frocks juxtaposed with ultra-sophisticated plush robes. Photography / Mark Elzey Words / Chloe Rash Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage #nyfw | laurence & chico
Mavens of maximalism, Laurence Li and Chico Wang, build bold silhouettes that function as works of art. Their ebullient collection was fortified with pearl detailing, lush violet tweeds and peplum bodices that oozed couture-like splendour. The Canadian couple played with portions to craft an array of varying forms: swollen plaid outwear and elephantine ruffles were shown beside artfully tailored suits fastened with elegant bows. Coquettish pearl boater hats sat atop sky-high wigs further exemplifying an oeuvre of great height. Photography / Mark Elzey Words / Chloe Rash Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage #nyfw | colovos
Husband and wife design duo Nicole and Michael Colovos recycle fabrics but do not recycle fads. For their Autumn/Winter 2018 show, the Colovos’ renovated classic silhouettes: bright bomber jackets were built like elongated armour whilst denim tuxedos were deconstructed and punctuated with electric pipping. Draped dresses and protracted pants with crocheted edges were imagined in earthen tones and cropped jackets were accentuated with faux fur trim. Photography / Ernesto Guadalupe Words / Chloe Rash Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage | 080 barcelona
Schön! and photographer David García capture the backstage buzz at 080 Barcelona Fashion. Head behind-the-scenes for the models, make-up and moments that made the autumn/winter 2018 season so memorable. Read more in our full report here. This Schön! feature was produced by Photography / David García Words / Huma Humayun Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage #pfw ss18 | paul & joe
Paul & Joe’s collection this season remained true to the brand’s ethos. Minimalism was the main element in Sophie Mechaly’s mind, where 70s nostalgia was seen through a selection of solid-coloured denims, androgynous vintage silhouettes and the unequivocally abloom floral fabrics. Photography / Ancira Adeon Words / Sara Delgado
backstage #pfw ss18 | moncler gamme rouge
Moncler Gamme Rouge presented the epitome of happy collection for Spring Summer 2018. Giambattista Valli envisioned the perfect balance of classical and contemporary fashion, where millennial pink was the protagonist. The ballerina-inspired collection featured flowy delicate dresses, lingerie-reminiscent and embroidery extravaganza combined with an ethereal and hyperfeminine take on sportswear. Photography / Ancira Adeon Words / Sara Delgado
backstage #pfw ss18 | masha ma
Rising Chinese designer Masha Ma took over Paris with her fluid aesthetic and industrial leanings. The CSM alum offered a staggering array of pieces featuring leather, pinstripe revival, reworked floral motives reminiscent of those in iconic Chinese qipao dresses, and mesh. The collection, true to the brand ethos, presented exquisite androgynous and oversized tailoring, round off and feminized by pointy mules and thigh high boots in vibrant colours. Paying homage to Wong Kar-wai’s sequel to the 1991’s Days of Being Wild titled 2046, the cast featured all Asian models in a powerful statement worthy of futurist romanticism. Photography / Ancira Adeon Words / Sara Delgado
backstage #pfw ss18 | yohji yamamoto
Faithful to his roots, Yohji Yamamoto presented a monochrome collection featuring stiff yet airy silhouettes demonstrating his magnificent tailoring. The collection showcased his characteristic aesthetic with asymmetric approach featuring sculptural dresses, loose-fitted trousers, avant-garde jackets and practical footwear, completed with oversized buttons accents throughout. Showing that imperfections can be perfect, Yohji once more provided a lesson of modern deconstructionism. Photography / Ancira Adeon Words / Sara Delgado
backstage #pfw ss18 | redemption
Rebellion is the definition of Redemption, combined with elegance, beauty, and sophistication. Gabrielle “Bebe” Moratti, creative director of the brand, undoubtedly left his mark with the latest collection, epitomizing the rebellious grunge spirit that characterizes the brand. Proving that elegance is simply an attitude, the collection featured a glittering array of laid-back long dresses and gowns, oversized checked shirts, and intricate lace detailing with the paramount denim pieces, leather accents, and combat boots to mark its most personal collection to date. Photography / Ancira Adeon Words / Sara Delgado
backstage #pfw ss18 | pascal millet
Pascal Millet’s latest collection summons notions from Voltaire’s Candide. The optimistic allure of the satire transpires in Millet’s simple designs, evoking the botanical image distinctive of the Mediterranean. Models strutted down the catwalk in sleek white dresses, clear-cut shirts and airy denim pieces adorned with elegant accents of frills, lace and sequins with floral arrangements. Together with the serene make up and intentionally clean tousle hair, the designer embodied the carefree ethos of a newfangled wardrobe. Photography / Ancira Adeon Words / Sara Delgado
backstage pfw ss18 | koché
Last night, Parisian designer Christelle Kocher displayed the perfect marriage of couture and sportswear with Koché’s latest collection. Taking as a standpoint the emblematic club of the city of Paris, the Paris-Saint-Germain, the collection embodied the brand ethos in an intriguing coupling of high fashion, street culture, and contemporary art. Photography / Ancira Adeon Words / Sara Delgado
backstage #mfw ss18 | au jour le jour
Designers Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez decided to revisit the worlds of their imagination with the recent presentation of the SS18 of their label Au Jour Le Jour. The designer duo deconstructed average articles of clothing to create reversed volumes and proportions. A colour palette ranging from light blue hues, pinks and white to black, navy and blue and shades of brown, was presented on collars and sleeves on hemlines, pockets on the back of the bodice, blazers as skirts and bag packs attached to blouses. Photography & words / Jordan Anderson
backstage #mfw ss18 | stella jean
Haitian-Italian designer Stella Jean gave spectators a taste of La Paz, Bolivia, at the showcase of her SS18 collection, as one of the closing acts of MFW. Bolivia’s Las Cholitas Luchadoras – a group a female wrestlers who were long discriminated against, not only because of the colours of their skin, but also the vibrant colours of their extravagant dresses — were who Jean drew inspiration from. She was amused not only by their clothing, but their act of strength and persistence. The show was indeed an act of liberation, and a celebration of culture, as she presented the collection with a very diverse selection of models in a variety of multi-coloured articles of clothing adapted, as her take on this unique group of women. Photography & words / Jordan Anderson
backstage #mfw ss18 | arthur arbesser
Viennese designer Arthur Arbesser recently paid homage to the artistry of his culture, with the showcasing of his ss18 collection in Milan. The collection — a collaboration with Swarovski — comprised of various influences of Austrian culture such as patterns inspired by Viennese abstract paintings and large puffed sleeves inspired old Austrian school girl tunics. He took a timeless approach, using bright colours mixed with dull pigments paired with the pearls and ties of Swaroski. Photography & words / Jordan Anderson
backstage #mfw ss18 | lucio vanotti
Designer Lucio Vanotti presented his SS18 collection in a grand palazzo in the centre of Milan with a very dominant influence of the 1940’s. Vanotti fused this with pieces of inspiration from the Middle Ages producing a collection comprised of A-line hems, wooden clogs made into wedge heels and abstract head pieces. The designer’s love for the abstract object also contributed to the tasteful construction of layered silhouettes complimented by his use of patterns. Photography & words / Jordan Anderson
backstage #mfw ss18 | N°21
The N°21 SS18 show, staged in an ambience of raw cemented walls and mirror mazes, was an imaginative collection of coherent details. The Italian designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua served a collection inspired by the ‘60s pin-up girl, a concept fused with a touch of the 2017 feminist. He played peek-a-boo with light shades and hues of nude, adding a touch of colour every now and then to express the autonomy of this modern day woman. The designer’s keen attention to detail did not go unnoticed with a touch of crystals and feathers as his ode to the era. Photography & words / Jordan Anderson
backstage @ nyfw ss18 | rochambeau
Rochambeau’s latest collection, designed by Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper, debuted their new Spring/Summer 2018 collection at New York Fashion Week showing inspiration from skateboarding, street art and urban life. The show’s background was the result of a collaboration with the artist Aaron Curry, who had his abstract sculptures enriching the catwalk. Photography / Aline Velter Words / Roberta Basilio
backstage @ nyfw ss18 | zadig & voltaire
Keeping with the rock and roll chic aesthetic, the Parisian label Zadig & Voltaire presented a collection for the second time during New York Fashion Week. Oversized sweaters and military jackets were brought to the runway, as well as romantic floral dresses paired with sneakers. Creative director Cecilia Bönström explained backstage that the major inspiration for her latest design was a box of her grandparents clothes that she found in an attic. Photography / Aline Velter Words / Roberta Basilio
backstage @ nyfw ss18 | vfiles
With loud music and even louder colours it was a hip hop party backstage at VFILES, hoted in Brooklyn’s Barclays Center. This season, JunJie Yang, Louis Pileggi, and Christian Stone were the emerging designers showcasing collections. Menswear designer JunJie Yang paired fun, bulky quilted jackets with oversized accessories. For the final collection of the night, Christian Stone took the audience on an underwater intergalactic trip where transparency, metallic colours, and a maximalist aesthetic reigned. Photography / Aline Velter Words / Roberta Basilio
backstage at 080 barcelona fashion
Schön! and photographer David Garcia head behind the scenes at the spring/summer 2018 edition of Barcelona’s fashion week. Here, the vibrancy of the garments is matched by the backstage buzz of the models and make-up artists, designers and stylists, making it all happen. Read more in our full report here. This Schön! feature was produced by Photography / David Garcia Photography Assistant / Consuelo PC Words / Huma Humayun
backstage at paris | AVOC
Avoc Paris kept things practical and professional with their Business as Usual collection. Designers Laura Do and Bastien Laurent focused on silhouettes, experimenting with lab coats, double breasted jackets, and trousers. Avoc’s use of yellow brightened the black, white, and gray pieces and gave the collection a touch of spring. Photographer Giuseppe Triscari takes us behind-the-scenes to discover the intricate details upclose. Photography / Giuseppe Triscari Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage at paris | cerruti 1881
Cerruti 1881 channeled filmic references of Miami Vice with laid-back sportswear for their Spring/Summer 2018 collection.. Natural fabrics were combined with white, sand, salmon, and shades of blue to create a refined look for summer. Exploring the maison’s link to cinema – Nino Cerruti designed the costumes for Miami Vice in 1984 – the show featured oversized shorts, V-neck shirts, long coats, layered tops, bringing brilliant modernity to menswear. Photographer Giuseppe Triscari brings us to the backstage space to catch details on camera. Photography / Giuseppe Triscari Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage at paris | pigalle
Showing during Paris Fashion Week Men’s, Pigalle used their collection to envision the 2024 Olympic Games coming to Paris. Inspired by the opening ceremony, designer Stéphane Ashpool created sporty, color-blocked looks in silver, purple, and the French tricolore. From pyjama-style robes and cropped jackets to metallic tracksuits and harem pants, the collection focused on fashion’s idea of the Olympics, in brilliant design imagination. Photographer Giuseppe Triscari takes us behind-the-scenes moments before the models emerged on the catwalk to document the backstage activity. Photography / Giuseppe Triscari Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage at paris | christian dada
Photographer Giuseppe Triscari takes us backstage at the Christian Dada show during Paris Fashion Week Men’s. Designer Masanori Morikawa explored the chaos of digital worlds, composing a collection full of deconstructed outerwear, painterly pieces and patchwork effects. Photography / Giuseppe Triscari Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage at paris | kenzo
Taking inspiration from Ryuichi Sakamoto for the Spring/Summer 2018 collections, Kenzo harked back to the Asian roots of the house. The design duo of Kenzo, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, looked to the muse of Takada, Sayoko Yamaguchi, who embodied the brilliance of his designs perfectly. With signature treatments of florals that balanced – literally balanced, as performers swung from the façade of the courtyard – archival references and an influx of new, high-powered energy, the collections were brilliant reinvention of the best of Kenzo’s essence. Photographer Nicky Zeng takes us behind the scenes to capture the pre-show lineup. Photography / Nicky Zeng Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage at paris | yohji yamamoto
With a signature conceptual take on design, Yohji Yamamoto presented a painterly collection for Spring/Summer 2018. With slogans deconstructed into seemingly vacuous messages – a stab perhaps at the mantras of a media heavy generation – calligraphy bound the beautifully crafted pieces together. Photographer Giuseppe Triscari takes us backstage at the show as models prepared to emerge into the showspace of Yamamoto’s headquarters in Rue Saint Martin. Photography / Giuseppe Triscari Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage at london | d.gnak
Photographer Ieva Lasmane takes us backstage at D.GNAK’s debut on the London calendar, with creative director Kang Dong Jun presenting a sleek, tailored collection for Spring/Summer 2018. Incorporating colour into a minimal colour palette – in the form of yellows, beige and red touches – Jun brought a fusion of Korean and Western influences to life. Photography / Ieva Lasmane Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage at london | oliver spencer
Photographer Ieva Lasmane heads behind the scenes at Oliver Spencer to capture the last minute touch ups before the designer’s SS18 show during London Fashion Week Men’s. Amidst rusty shades and a muted palette of earthy tones, models prepared for the runway, dressed in modernly masculine pieces, with brilliant attention to textiles and textures. Photography / Ieva Lasmane Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage at london | john lawrence sullivan
Showing for the second time on the London schedule, Japan-based John Lawrence Sullivan brought a post-punk show to the capital of the once prosperous counter culture. Examining its current day reality – the cold wave influence, the sharp lines of a post-industrial urban setting – a generation of gender-free, free-thinking individuals was brought to life in the show. Excellent sharp tailoring, oversized shoulders, streetwear influences and brilliant retro references – reimagined in urban form – made the show a highlight of the schedule. Capturing the pre-show rituals and energy, Ieva Lasmane headed behind the scenes to capture the atmosphere on camera for Schön! Photography / Ieva Lasmane Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage at london | mihara yasuhiro
Mihara Yasuhiro addressed the strange paths of communication of the modern day individual. Taking the idea of the void of social media and digital means of communication, Mihara uncovered the absence left when the screens turn blank. Logos and stitched details were confronted with dark, layered silhouettes, exploring the complex space created by these new dynamics. Photographer Ieva Lasmane takes us behind-the-scenes to catch a close up impression of the brilliant collection. Photography / Ieva Lasmane Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage at london | bodybound
BODYBOUND sent out missives of peace for their Spring/Summer ’18 collection, shown during London Fashion Week Men’s. Channelling the summer of love – with models bearing messages of love – BODYBOUND presented beautifully crafted pieces, with intricate embroideries, in floral form and with the peace symbol omnipresent. Complete with a Patti Smith soundtrack, the emotional uplifting effect of the collection created a poetic space to escape the violence of current socio-political paradigms. Photographer Ieva Lasmane takes us behind-the-scenes to discover the collection up close. Photography / Ieva Lasmane Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.
backstage at london | songzio
Painterly prints and black on black compositions emerged onto the catwalk for South Korean designer Songzio’s third presentation at London Fashion Week Men’s. Photographer Ieva Lasmane takes us behind-the-scenes to uncover the final beauty touch ups, moments before the models hit the runway. Photography / Ieva Lasmane Discover the latest issue of Schön!. Now available in print, as an ebook, online and on any mobile device.