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DRESSING ‘THE GREAT GATSBY’
From the Brooks Brothers limited collection inspired by The Great Gatsby
ON THE DAY OF ITS CINEMA RELEASE, SCHÖN! EXPLORES THE COSTUMES OF THIS YEAR’S MOST HIGHLY AWAITED FILM, ‘THE GREAT GATSBY’.
A film adaptation of one of the greatest American novels of the 20th Century is always going to come under close scrutiny and, with delays to its release date, Baz Luhrmann’s long awaited interpretation of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s ‘The Great Gatsby’ is certainly no exception. Added pressure comes courtesy of a cinema classic: the 1974 version written by Francis Ford Coppola and starring screen icons Robert Redford, Mia Farrow and Bruce Dern. This time around, the leading roles are reprised by Leonardo DiCaprio, Carey Mulligan and Tobey Maguire, whose costumes are as highly anticipated as their performances.
‘The Great Gatsby’ is arguably THE seminal representation of the roaring twenties and the jazz age; its characters drawn from the young, beautiful and rich of Long Island. The 1974 version, with costumes by Ralph Lauren, has inspired countless catwalk collections and with flapper dresses and deco details sashaying down the runways of Gucci, Etro etc. these past few months, Luhrmann’s offering looks set to achieve similar sartorial success. This success can largely be credited to his wife and long-term collaborator, the multi Academy Award and BAFTA winning costume and production designer Catherine Martin.
Left/ Knee-length dress in tulle embroidered in Swarovski crystal by Miu Miu.
Right/ Orange organza dress inspired by the Prada Fall/Winter 2011 collection.
Once again, fashion brands have played a major role in the creation of the costumes for Fitzgerald’s characters and Martin has chosen them carefully. She decided to collaborate with Miuccia Prada on the sumptuous clothing of the female characters, and together they created a bespoke collection of over 40 unique Miu Miu and Prada cocktail and evening dresses, inspired by runway looks from the last 20 years. “Baz and Miuccia have always connected on their shared fascination with finding modern ways of releasing classic and historical references from the shackles of the past,” explains Martin. “This connection is central to our relationship with Miuccia Prada on ‘The Great Gatsby’, and has connected our vision with hers…We have tried to create an environment that the audience will be subconsciously familiar with, yet separated from.”
From The Great Gatsby Collection by Tiffany & Co.
A specially designed collection of platinum-set diamond and pearl jewellery from Tiffany & Co perfectly complements the period clothes. As America’s first great jeweller, Tiffany & Co symbolised the glitz and glamour of this golden age and, according to Martin, “seemed the perfect fit for ‘The Great Gatsby’ not only because F. Scott Fitzgerald himself was a customer but also because Louis Comfort Tiffany, the brand’s first Design Director, mixed in the actual Long Island circles described in the novel.” Tiffany & Co even supplied the china, silver and other accessories that adorn the interior of Jay Gatsby’s mansion in the film.
To accompany the cinema release and to celebrate its 175th anniversary, Tiffany & Co will release the Ziegfeld collection in June. Based on the brand’s art deco designs from the 1920s and the daisy motif that is integral to the movie, it includes pieces in sterling silver, black onyx and, of course, ropes of luxurious pearls – a signature of 1920s fashion. The gentlemen have not been forgotten, with black enamel cufflinks and a black onyx signet ring to complete the collection.
Meanwhile, Brooks Brothers has produced more than 500 ensembles for the male characters in the film based on Martin’s designs, many of which were inspired by 1920s items from the brand’s archives. Established in New York in 1818, Brooks Brothers is America’s oldest ready-to-wear retailer and, as Martin points out, is “mentioned numerous times in Fitzgerald’s writings as a representation of the ultimate gentleman’s purveyor of fine clothing to the American man of distinction. It is this most basic and fundamental connection that has made our collaboration so authentic.”
Brooks Brothers has just released a limited edition collection for Spring/Summer based on Martin’s costume designs, including a version of the pink linen suit worn by DiCaprio – a symbol in Fitzgerald’s novel of all that remains naïve and fresh about Gatsby despite his wealth and opulent lifestyle – with the addition of subtle pinstripes. The collection also features bow ties produced using archival fabrics, bowler hats, regatta blazers and even a beech wood walking stick based on the one Gatsby carries in the film.
So ladies and gentlemen, don’t forget that Gatsby style is not reserved for the big screen. Whether it’s pearls or pinstripes, Prada or preppy, this is your chance to grab a piece of costume history for yourselves.
The Great Gatsby is released by Warner Brothers on 16th May 2013. For more information, visit thegreatgatsbymovie.com
Words / Huma Humayun
Follow her on Twitter @londonstylist
American Beauty/
Ashley Smith by Naomi Yang
The American Beauty shoot in Schön! Magazine’s 19th issue is less a celebration of the film of the same title and more a Technicolor carnival in honor of extraordinary American model Ashley Smith. Photographed by Naomi Yang and styled by Jessica Bobince, the shoot features an abundance of luxurious brands and glistening fine jewellery styled to be as outrageous as the most lavish American beauty queens. This impression is compounded by the rich makeup and hairspray-heavy hair by Chris Colbeck and Benoit Moeyaert at Art Department. Smith’s gleaming dragonfly-green nails are courtesy of manicurist Maki Sakamoto.
Ashley Smith by Naomi Yang
Ashley Smith by Naomi Yang
Ashley Smith by Naomi Yang
Ashley Smith by Naomi Yang
Photographer / Naomi Yang
Styling / Jessica Bobince
Model / Ashley Smith @ Marilyn Agency NY
Hair / Benoit Moeyaer t @ Art Department
Make Up / Chris Colbeck @ Art Department
Manicurist / Maki Sakamoto @ Kate Ryan
Photographer Assista nt / James Giles
Styling Assistants / Sarah Gentillon,
Jarrod Kentrell & Leslieann Santiago
Pro********* by Danielle DeFoe/
Photographer Danielle DeFoe makes the squalid world of ‘Pro*********’ glamourous in her fashion editorial for Schön! 18. The theme is further executed with scenes of uncanny females displaying negligence and seduction in dimly lit environments. Styled by Brett Bailey, the models strike an attitude of mysterious couture with silky-smooth garments by Miu Miu, tailored suits from Dsquared2 and Gucci, Diane Von Furstenberg and Christian Dior providing looks as well. Perhaps the most intriguing item of clothing in this spread are the clear booties that second as goldfish bowls by Maison Martin Margiela, which pulls the shoot together and creates a clear element of allure.
Photography/ Danielle DeFoe
Styling/ Brett Bailey
Styling Assistant/ Todd Pearce
Hair/ Bobby Eliot
Make Up/ Anthony Nguyen
Special thanks to Akmal Shaukat
Magniloquent by Thanassis Krikis/
In the high-fashion editorial ‘Magniloquent’, the fashion-designer-turned- photographer Thanassis Krikis whisks us away to an intriguing world of aristocratic beauty. Using fashion model Laragh McCann, who portrays the perfect blend of innocence and sophistication in the stunning dresses, skirts, and tops by Roberto Cavalli, Yves Saint Laurent and Balenciaga, he creates a masquerade inspired photo shoot with romantic undertones. Fashion editor Nicholas Georgiou adds ornate masks and hats to the almost costume-like fashion collection, completing the glamorous looks, while hair stylist Christos Kallaniotis creates exaggerated hairdos that match the historical theme of the editorial perfectly.
Photographer / Thanassis Krikis
Fashion Editor / Nicholas Georgiou
Make Up / Stellar @ D-Tales
Hair / Christos Kallaniotis
@ Terrie Tanaka, for Pantene Pro V
Model / Laragh McCann @ Women NY
Photography Assistant / Nicos Koustenis
Fashion Assistants / Elena Psalti & Marcos Andriotis
Schön! 17 – We Are The Champions
The creative contestants are eagerly waiting, ready to unleash their talents onto the pages of the exemplary issue 17 of Schön! Magazine. We have a splendid line-up for you, including our transformative cover model Crystal Renn shot by the riveting photographer Ellen von Unwerth. Contributing fashion editor, Laurent Dombrowicz lends us his exceptional eye for fashion in not one but three fashion editorials for this issue including teaming up with discerning photographer, Greg Lotus to produce a steaming hot editorial ‘Waterfalls.’
Canadian model Meghan Collison will have you doing a double take as she sheds her distinguishing long brown locks for an edgier blonde do. We are thrilled to present you with an intimate look at the creative’s behind the revolutionary sportswear brand, UVU; Will Forrester and Hayder Tuaima where we discover the extreme importance of the clothing they create. And there you have it, the competition has come to a close; everyone has been declared a winner in their own right, each deserving of the gold. So go ahead and indulge in our fascinating issue and let us show you why,
We Are The Champions!
#WINNER
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Eat Me by Ellen Von Unwerth/
Performance artist Angeleno Lauren Avery best known for her alter ego ‘Meg Ryan’ makes lounging around the house look anything but boring in ‘Eat Me’ photographed by the talented Ellen Von Unwerth.
Draped in glamorous jewels and pearls from Glynneth B along with Avery’s pink and purple cotton candy floss coloured hair adds a bit of playfulness to the Victorian vibe of this story. So feel free to unwrap this luscious fashion narrative and eat up all its sweet sultry goodness.
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Schön! 15 – Ladies & Gentlemen/
A banquet of exquisite beauty and intrigue is bestowed onto the pages of the 15th Issue of Schön! Magazine.
The ravishing Daisy Lowe graces Schön! as ‘The Lady’ of the Magazine, photographed by Yuval Hen and styled by our very own fashion editor Kay Korsh. Model, Sam Webb, features as our ‘Maltese Falcon’, shot by our esteemed photographer Dimitris Theocharis. James Cooper and David Gant, shot by Blair Getz Mezibov, inspire effortless elegance. Wearing the timelessly chic Gieves & Hawkes, they are true visions of nobility.
Our photo shoots, “Baccara”, “Svelte”, and “Contour”, will ease your winter chill. Nikola Jovanovic shot by Christos Karantzolas and styled by Kyle Anderson, dispenses a burst of neon to break the grey of winter. David Agbodji transforms into immortalised figures in his series of auto-portraits edited by Laurent Dombrowicz! Reminisce fondly on the “Sweet Sixties”, shot by Squiz Hamilton. Then later we’ll show you a darker side of the past in “Russian Criminal Tattoos” by Anne Combaz.
Hajime Machida’s poignant paint strokes mix the human and the mechanical, while Oleg Dou’s ambitious project blurs the line between paintings and photography. In addition, we present musician Casey Spooner, one half of the electro music duo Fischerspooner, in an interview by Vincent Urbani.
Issue 15 also brings you the words of geniuses such as Jany Temime, the costume designer for the Harry Potter films, Qiu Hao, a fresh new fashion designer from China, and the makers of the infamous children’s program Sesame Street. These incredible people will make you smile and laugh and appreciate their dedication to their respective crafts.
Readers indulge; meet the people, see their works, and enjoy the show!
BUY IN PRINT/ DOWNLOAD EBOOK/ VIEW ONLINE/ GO MOBILE/
Schön! 15 – Ladies & Gentlemen/
A banquet of exquisite beauty and intrigue is bestowed onto the pages of the 15th Issue of Schön! Magazine.
The ravishing Daisy Lowe graces Schön! as ‘The Lady’ of the Magazine, photographed by Yuval Hen and styled by our very own fashion editor Kay Korsh. Model, Sam Webb, features as our ‘Maltese Falcon’, shot by our esteemed photographer Dimitris Theocharis. James Cooper and David Gant, shot by Blair Getz Mezibov, inspire effortless elegance. Wearing the timelessly chic Gieves & Hawkes, they are true visions of nobility.
Our photo shoots, “Baccara”, “Svelte”, and “Contour”, will ease your winter chill. Nikola Jovanovic shot by Christos Karantzolas and styled by Kyle Anderson, dispenses a burst of neon to break the grey of winter. David Agbodji transforms into immortalised figures in his series of auto-portraits edited by Laurent Dombrowicz! Reminisce fondly on the “Sweet Sixties”, shot by Squiz Hamilton. Then later we’ll show you a darker side of the past in “Russian Criminal Tattoos” by Anne Combaz.
Hajime Machida’s poignant paint strokes mix the human and the mechanical, while Oleg Dou’s ambitious project blurs the line between paintings and photography. In addition, we present musician Casey Spooner, one half of the electro music duo Fischerspooner, in an interview by Vincent Urbani.
Issue 15 also brings you the words of geniuses such as Jany Temime, the costume designer for the Harry Potter films, Qiu Hao, a fresh new fashion designer from China, and the makers of the infamous children’s program Sesame Street. These incredible people will make you smile and laugh and appreciate their dedication to their respective crafts.
Readers indulge; meet the people, see their works, and enjoy the show!
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Short Story/
A sense of beautiful nostalgia is felt throughout the pages of “Short Story”, as photographer Anne Combaz manages to go back in time and capture the beauty and essence of the high class living of the 50s.
With the perfectly detailed styling of Laurent Dombrowicz – from the fit of the clothes, the choice of houndstooth and lace fabrics, to the stiffly overdone hairstyles – vintage glamour comes alive in issue fourteen of Schön! Magazine.
Photographer / Anne Combaz
Styling / Laurent Dombrowicz
Assisted by Nicolas Dureau
Models / Mary Pierce @ Marylin
Sebastien Mercier @ NewMadison
Hair / Miha Norimatsu
Makeup / Aya Fujita using M.A.C
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Schön! 14 – Strike! out now/
STRIKE!
Where to begin with our amazing 14th issue? Our latest offering is like a lucky dip of treats, each prize as lovely as the last. We’re opening our issue with a double cover with two emerging heavyweights of the fashion industry: Andrej Pejec with Allure, and Rick Genest with Undercover. Shot by Christos Karantzolas, Andrej Pejec, Jean Paul Gaultier’s choice pick, shows us the right way to approach the theme of androgyny, taking it from a totally new angle and raising it to new heights, where he simply drips glamour and style, clutch handbag and all!
The amazing and enigmatic Canadian based Rick Genest, otherwise known as Zombie Boy, shot to fame for his remarkable full body tattoos of a human skeleton and decomposing flesh, shows us the attitude and charisma that has kept him firmly in fashion’s good-books. Shot by Matthew Lyn, and styled by our very own fashion editor Kay Korsh, he even gives us a peek at his true face under his signature tattoos, giving Schön! a very privileged exclusive!
As you pass through the pages, you’ll join on us on our globe trekking adventure, where we pick up the very best of international creative talent along the way – as always! Hye Jung Lee and Lina Zhang continue the theme of Allure with a sharp and edgy twist, showing us a new side to ‘Asian Girls’, as captured by our fave of the moment, Christos Karantzolas. Think glamour, steeped in patent leather and statement shades, and you’ll have the picture! As we celebrate our recent print distribution to China we also speak with Hung Huang, hailed as the Chinese Oprah Winfrey, and gain an earnest insight into her truly inspiring upbringing in her home country, and impressive rise to fame as a woman in a largely patriarchal society. We also skip over to Spain with beautiful actress Ivana Baquero, who talks to us about how she went from her school uniform to the big screen in a heartbeat, displaying her new found prowess with lensman Sergi Pons.
Now have you ever wondered who gets to create the amazing super hero costumes, or the haunting creatures that feature in all of your favourite blockbusters? We talk to Christian Beckman of Quantum Creation FX who is responsible for many of the ‘marvel’-ous makeup effects and costumes that make cinema seem so very real. Then from bringing heroes and legends to life, we speak to a real life legend in photography, Oliviero Toscani, where we give to you the most candid interview of the iconic figure, which will certainly leave you with an impression of the well accomplished man.
Revelling in the gloriously vintage, Mary Pierce and Sebastien Mercier bring us straight back to the mid 20th century, rejoicing in the timeless class of a past era of fashion, shot by Anne Combaz and styled by the keen eye of Laurent Dombrowicz, who also works his magic in our gloriously dark ‘Better The Devil You Know’ feature. With his rugged beard and manly scowl, Mateus Verdelho is the epitome of masculinity in the aptly named ‘Draconic’, where Omar Macchiavelli captures the gentleman within from this fiercely handsome model. And there is so much more!
So join us in luxuriating in the international magnetism of this issue, and the thrill of uncovering the gems that we have in store. We will not disappoint!
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