menswear month | paris reinvented

On the second day of Paris Fashion Week, Sandro revisited ’50s style influenced by the Beat Generation and their free-thinking lifestyle. From boxy suede camel jackets with tailored pants to dark tunic-style polos, designer Ilan Chetrite played with shapes and styles. Denim, leather, and mesh gave the looks a casual yet edgy style that felt true to both the ’50s and today. 

Issey Miyake created a variety of desert-inspired looks for the modern nomad. Cool and offbeat, the neutral coloured collection featured large robe-like shirts, cinched trousers, cowl necks, and Mao collars. The brand continued their signature crinkled designs while also experimenting with texture and patterns on lightweight materials, bringing the desert landscape to life.

Inspired by tourists at Paris Plage, the AMI by Alexandre Mattiussi collection playfully balanced work and leisure. With passing boats and hot pink sand in the background, models wore vibrant trousers, floral Bermuda shorts, and colour-blocked bowling shirts. The collection borrowed from many international styles, making the line feel friendly and welcoming to all.


Rick Owens captured urban strucuters with an unusual take on practical pieces. The scaffolding structure that towered above the Palais de Tokyo’s courtyard brought monumentalism into plat. From sleeveless and sheer silhouettes, to layered pieces with patchwork, Rick Owens’ army emerged from the skies. Black cream and gray were blended on sculpted tank tops and high-waisted shorts, creating an aesthetic that matched Egyptian Lover’s I Need A Freak playing in the background.

In Palais-Royal, Louis Vuitton showcased layered looks that fused surfing gear and scubadiving. The unique fits and the colour repetition put a clever twist on suits, blousons, and oversized shirts. With aquatic tones and busy textures, designer Kim Jones achieves a “multicultural, subtropical vibe” that works for day and night, formal and casual. 

Tim Coppens

Tim Coppens made his Paris debut with “American Dreamer.” Inspired by growing up in Europe yet dreaming of America, the co-ed line featured wrap-around leather skirts, bomber jackets, New York Fire Department accents, and collaboration pieces from Wrangler, Clark’s, and Mykita. 

Inspired by the style of their working immigrant parents, GmbH designers Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik combined functionality and versatility. The line included pleated high-waisted pants, collaged silk T-shirts, Helly Hansen-constructed parkas, and a biker-fit denim jacket. The brand incorporated both men and women in European and Middle Eastern styles, showing unity and tolerance beyond the street-style workwear.

Boris Bidjan Saberi created its own urban jungle in street-style military garments. In a range of earth tones, the monochrome looks were designed to camouflage “without being true camouflage.” The pieces included apron-like tunics, shirt-jackets, long trousers, and kimono-meets-gabardine overalls.

Yohji Yamamoto / Photo Giuseppe Triscari

Painter-turned-designer Yohji Yamamoto treated his spring line as a canvas and drew inspiration from his own studio. The colourful collection overlaid paint splatters, graffiti scribbles, and writing on shirts, robes, and jackets. The collection also explored textures, using leather, silk, linen, and  more to create lively streetwear.

Pigalle Paris used their collection to envision the 2024 Olympic Games coming to Paris. Inspired by the opening ceremony, designer Stéphane Ashpool created sporty, colour-blocked looks in silver, purple, and the French tricolour. From pyjama-style robes and cropped jackets to metallic tracksuits and harem pants, the collection focused on fashion’s idea of the Olympics rather than the sports themselves.

Words / Autumn Hill
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