Author Archive for Isabel van Zeller
Tony Ward/
Born in California, Tony Ward began his modeling career when he was 20 years old achieving international supermodel success after being photographed by famous photographer Herb Ritts for Calvin Klein underwear.
After that, his career took off as he worked with the fashion industry’s leading people: Karl Lagerfeld, Steven Meisel, Terry Richardson as well as working for designers such as Chanel and Dolce and Gabbana.
In the 9th issue of Schön! we dedicated a 24 page editorial to Ward which includes a photoshoot where he flaunts his naked body and an interview in which he talks about his other roles as a fashion designer, painter, photographer and father.
CHECK IT OUT!
Model / Tony Ward @ Premier Model Management
Photography / Dimitris Theocharis @ dimitristheocharis.com
Fashion Styling / Anders Solvsten Thomsen
Make Up / Nora Nona
Hair / Kavita Kaul
Photography Assistant / Sohrab Vahdat
Fashion Assistant / Shaunie Brett
Studio Assistant / Manu valcarce
Studio Assistant / Marsy Hild Thorsdottir
Special thanks to Laurence @ 33 Portland Place
Special Thanks to Ioannis Dimitrousis
BUY IN PRINT/ DOWNLOAD EBOOK/ VIEW ONLINE/ GO MOBILE/
our celebration with Schön!/
If you didn’t make it to Schön!’s event yesterday, then let me tell you: it was one heck of a party!
On the 10th of November, guests were queuing up at the entrance of Mayfair’s The Music Room, eagerly waiting to join in the celebration of Schön!’s fantastic success with their host – Schön!’s Editor-in-Chief – Raoul Keil and the rest of the team.
The space looked absolutely great: Issues of Schön! were hanging from the walls allowing people to take a good look through, striking photography from the magazine was being shown on a grand projection, the banners provided by Drew Creative Branding were looking grand and inviting; Even the lighting was perfect!
There was a creative atmosphere in the room as guests from the media industry – including marketers, writers, photographers and editors – happily mingled around, while beautiful orchestral music was played live in the background by talented musicians Fandango, All the Kings Men and the very talented violinist Michael Mcaughley (who is also an AMCK model!)
Everyone couldn’t get enough of the pretty pink cocktails being freshly prepared by the friendly Jalouse crew (if you spoke to them in French they would give you a double). Visitors also drank great, chilled Krombacher beer – sponsored by Kennington based pub Zeitgeist – like there was no tomorrow, got refreshed and energised with Glaceau Vitamin Water and for desert munched on lovely, yummy cupcakes by Rosalind Miller from Rosalind Miller Cakes.
When guests left for the after-party at the exclusive club Jalouse, they didn’t go empty-handed. Everyone wanted a copy of Schön! and some took home a goody bag (thank you designhotels.com for the totes!). They were filled with essential beauty products provided by L’Oreal, Maybelline and I Love…Cosmetics; as well as fun eyelashes by StarGazer and the first ever edition of the F311 newspaper.
Thank you everyone for coming to celebrate with Schön! Magazine, and thank you to all the sponsors that helped make this event possible.
The event was sponsored by SampleSaleHunter.com
Photos by JP Hion at jphion.com
Agent Provocateur Soiree/
Agent Provocateur celebrates the online launch of the Soiree 2011-2012 collection with a short film, ‘Les Fleurs du Mal’ – a unique take on the horror genre with a signature Agent Provocateur sensibility and eroticism.
The premium collection will be available on www.agentprovocateur.com for the first time. Made from the finest silks and embroidery, all hand-finished and in limited edition, the collection has previously only retailed in global destination boutiques such as Harrods, London and Madison Avenue, NYC.
The two-minute film is directed by Epoch Films’ Justin Anderson. Agent Provocateur’s Creative Director, Sarah Shotton, says “I was introduced to Justin’s work by Epoch films. I loved his simplistic but stylish style and also the humour in his work. One of the gowns in the collection reminded Justin of the type of gown that was worn by ‘victims’ in classic ‘50s hammer horror films. Hammer horror suits Agent Provocateur perfectly as in the past, horror was the only way of showing sex in film, hence Dracula biting his reluctant ladies’ necks! I am a big fan of horror and of using it as a tactic to jump onto my own ‘victims’ laps when scared, so I was very excited about making our very own little horror film!”
Justin says “Putting Agent Provocateur and horror together seemed the natural direction for the collection, but we needed a music track that would add a layer of humour. Sarah came up with the idea of using a Death Metal track which would be perfect for the brief, and I promised her I would make a film that would be like listening to Slayer whilst reading Italian Vogue. The track was recorded by the Parisian-based band – Omaha Bitch.”
Horror has been historically used as way of expressing sex and avoiding “Draconian” censorship laws, from the Victorian Gothic, 60’s Hammer Films through to American teen-horror. Sex and horror have always been woven together but never, to our knowledge, parodied within a film for a fashion label.
Epoch Films is an international production company based in London, New York and Los Angeles.
Director — Justin Anderson
Producer – Rob Godbold
Production Company — Epoch Films
Creative Direction — Sarah Shotton at Agent Provocateur
Model— Kirsten Varley at Select, Billie and Luma at Premier, Georgie and Juli at Profile
Cinematography — Stephan Blackman
Hair — Dom Capel
Make Up – Mei Rees
Styling — Valentine Fillol Cordier
Editor — Sam Gunn at The Whitehouse
Post Production — Glassworks
Sound Mix — Sam Ashwell at 750mph
Music Track — Gay Ninja by Ohama Bitch
Raun LaRose/
Raun LaRose is a fashion designer from Brooklyn, and as a new talent his collection for Autumn/Winter 2011 has attracted plenty of attention. With solidcuts, layering, strong colours and sleek tailoring, his vision is contemporary and refreshing.
Schön! decided to interview the extremely talented designer to find out more about the man behind the design.
Schön!: Have you always known that you wanted to be a designer one day? What drew you to a career in fashion
Raun LaRose: I Didn’t always know that I wanted to be a designer. I discovered that I was attracted to fashion at an early age. I always knew that I wanted to pursue a career in fashion, but at around age sixteen was when I knew I wanted to design.
Schön!: Brooklyn is known for being a cultural and creative hub, would you say that growing up there influenced you?
Raun LaRose: I would definitely say growing up in Brooklyn has influenced my work as a designer, I think it always will. But I also like to draw inspirations from other sources.
Schön!: You mentioned in other interviews that your Mother was a seamstress. What was the best advice she gave you when you decided to follow in her fashionable footsteps?
Raun LaRose: She advised me to always stay true to my vision and to always put God first. The fact that she was from a third world country wasn’t easy for her to follow her dreams to become a designer because the opportunities were limited. So she moved to the states and started her seamstress business full time. I saw the struggles she went through and how dedicated she was to her craft; she taught me a lot about quality and attention to detail.
Schön!: If you had to pick one word to embody your collection, what would it be?
Raun LaRose: The Backpack woven hybrid.
Schön!: Is there any one look that you’d consider to be your signature?
Raun LaRose: Autumn/Winter is my favorite season to design. I feel that there’s a lot more room to be creative and expressive. I also like layering and designing outwear.
Schön!: Are there any designers that you’d compare yourself to? Any that you’d seek to emulate?
Raun LaRose: No. I have designers that I am inspired by but I never try to emulate anyone. I feel like the purpose of being a designer is to have a unique viewpoint. The reason I design is because it challenges me creatively.
Schön!: What do you like most about autumn/winter fashion? What other designers work do you look forward to seeing?
Raun LaRose: It’s a tie between Givenchy (Ricardo Tisci) and Raf Simons. Those are the designers that I anxiously look to for new collections. They have both changed the face of menswear fashion in their own unique way.
Schön!: You’ve had your own brand since 2009, what was the most difficult part of starting up?
Raun LaRose: The most difficult part has been establishing the brand and getting people to know the brand exists. When I decided that this was something that I wanted to do for the rest of my life, I had to come to the conclusion that it’s going to be a long journey to get to where I want to be as a designer.
Schön!: If you weren’t a fashion designer, what would you be?
Raun LaRose: Probably a teacher. I really like working with kids. They are our future! I’m inspired by youth so I could see it being a job that I would never get tired of.
Schön!: You originally studied women’s wear at the Art Institute before pursuing men’s wear at FIT; would you ever design for women in the future?
Raun LaRose: I thought about it. I don’t see a women’s wear collection in my immediate future, men’s wear is my primary focus for now.
Schön!: Is there a piece in your collection that you’d consider your favourite?
Raun LaRose: I don’t really have a favorite piece – I like everything. When I design I make sure that every piece has something special about it.
Schön!: Which one person has affected your life the most, personally or professionally?
Raun LaRose: I would definitely have to say my older brother. He has been supportive of my career since the very beginning. He’s my hero. He’s an Air force veteran and has always inspired me to follow my dreams.
Schön!: Your collection isn’t currently available in stores; do you have an ideal retailer in mind for Raun LaRose?
Raun LaRose: I would love to carry the brand in Barney’s Jeffreys’s NY, Seven NY and a couple of other international retailers.
Schön!: Have you ever worked with other designers?
Raun LaRose: Well, I’ve Interned for Zac Posen in Paris and most recently worked as a design assistant for Native Son (Menswear Label).
Thank you Raun!
All clothes by Raun Larose
BUY IN PRINT/ DOWNLOAD EBOOK/ VIEW ONLINE/ GO MOBILE/
Happy Finish/
Happy Finish make images look great with their very special touch. They have worked on front covers for publications such as Vogue, Tatler, Muse, Elle and recently with Schön!. The brilliant Emma Jacob produced the beautiful 14th issue cover featuring model Rick Genest, and we didn’t resist on finding out more about her promising career.
Check it out!
Schön!: Where did you study? And what was the course you took?
Emma: I studied a design degree at Middlesex University. It was a great multi disciplined course and gave me a structured understanding of many aspects of design from the ideas stage to final product construction. However since my teens my true passion had always been illustration, so after initially working as a graphic designer when I graduated, I soon decided to take the plunge and became a freelance illustrator.
Schön!: How did you get the job at Happy Finish?
I was really lucky! I’d been freelancing for around 3 years by this time but in 2008 the economic climate meant there were smaller budgets and less projects out there for a relatively new freelancer like myself. I decided at this point to look at other creative possibilities where my illustration and design skills could be utilised.
I came across Happy Finish on the Association of Illustrators website, where they were offering a training scheme to assist senior retouchers over the course of 1 to 2 years. Although I had little retouching experience at the time I applied and was fortunate enough to be taken on by Chris Roome as his assistant. It was definitely the best decision I could have made!
My background in illustration really helped me make the transition into retouching. In fact many of the retouchers at Happy Finish have an illustration background as it is important understand the form of the body and to be able to create elements from scratch in Photoshop.
Schön: You have had your work featured in some of the most illustrious magazines including Vanity Fair, Wonderland and Rogue. Is fashion your passion or would you like to divert into other areas of retouching?
Emma: Fashion retouching is always very exciting. It’s great to see new trends before anyone else and to work on beautiful images. I really enjoyed working with photographer, Matthew Lyn on the Rick Genest story for Schön! magazine as the whole project had a fantastic concept. It’s often the case with editorials that photographers have more creative freedom, so it’s a real pleasure to make sure the final images look the way the photographer has envisioned!
However the whole team at Happy Finish are constantly trying out new techniques and its great to exchange ideas with other retouchers. For example a retoucher who works mainly on car or product images may use the same tools in a completely different way.
Schön!: What would be your dream project?
Emma: That’s a hard question! I recently completed a beauty advertorial for Bourjois and loved the level of detailed retouching required in perfecting the hair and skin. At the moment I would have to say a project involving this kind of level of detail would be my dream project.
5. You worked for a year and a half assisting Chris Roome, a world famous retoucher. What do you feel you have gained from this experience?
Emma: I gained a huge amount of experience from Chris, his work is amazing and it was such an experience to be assisting him on projects ranging from international Vogue covers to campaigns for brands such as D&G.
However I think the most important skill he taught me was how to colour grade. You have to train your eye to understand slight variations in colour that can be used to create a perfect mood and atmosphere, that in turn can completely transform an image. I remember back when I started I’d be watching him work and I’d just say to him in awe “it’s like magic!”
Schön!: Is there a particular persons work you admire?
Emma: I love everyone’s work at Happy Finish! All the retouching portfolios are of outstanding quality. For fashion retouching I would have say Jackie Williams and Kasia Kret as they both have progressed on the same path from being assistants to now having their own clients.
Schön!: What do you find the most enjoyable part of the retouching process?
Emma: I would have to say colour grading as this really sets the mood of a story or image. When I was working on the Rick Genest story Matthew really wanted us to get the colour right, so that’s what I mainly concentrated on. He wanted the tattoos to really stand out in the images and that’s what we strived to achieve throughout the story.
Schön!: What’s been your favourite moment as a retoucher so far?
Emma: I think my favourite moment as a retoucher was seeing the first cover I ever worked on. It was for Rogue magazine and I was so excited when the first issue arrived. To be honest every time I see something I have worked on published I get extremely happy!
Schön!: What are you working on at the moment?
Emma: I’m afraid I can’t say, it’s all cloak and dagger until it is released!
Schön!: How do you relax and unwind from work? What are your other passions?
Emma: I have to admit I’m a bit of a film fanatic, especially Sci-fi and Fantasy genres. They’re also great inspiration for colour. Avatar is a great example of this, I remember when it came out Chris was looking at still images from the film and commented that the light and colours of the “fluorescent” plants were similar to a recent Swarovski advert. The main problem with retouching is that you are constantly getting inspired by everything you see!
Emma Jacob is represented by Happy Finish. For further information on Emma please contact info@happyfinish.com or 0207 729 8508. www.happyfinish.co.uk
Draconic/
Photographer Omar Macchiavelli creates a powerful story in Schön!’s fourteenth issue, evoking the tough and rugged nature of the male figure.
Contrasting with the bi-gender issue running through this issue, model Mateus Verdelho looks extremely tough with his full, thick beard and intimidating stare.
With styling by Francesco Casarotto, the big chunky tweed coats over his naked body emphasise the masculinity of the shoot and gives him even more power and sensual presence.
Photographer / Omar Macchiavelli
Styling / Francesco Casarotto
Make Up / Piero Marsiglio using M.A.C Cosmetics
Model / Mateus Verdelho @ WhyNot
BUY IN PRINT/ DOWNLOAD EBOOK/ VIEW ONLINE/ GO MOBILE/
Allure/
Following the theme of androgyny in the 14th issue of Schön! Magazine, of course we had to include the beautiful and fascinating Serbian Australian transgender model Andrej Pejic.
With his platinum blonde hair and a feminine body to die for, Pejic made his first big appearance in Jean Paul Gaultier’s spring 2011 show in Paris, as well as walking for John Galliano, Paul Smith and Raf Simons that same season.
Since then his career has really taken off: he has been photographed by Mert&Marcus for an editorial in Vogue Paris, he has worked with renown fashion photographers Steven Meisel and Juergen Teller and has done a campaign for Marc Jacobs.
For issue 14 of Schön!, photographer Christos Karantzolas and stylist Kyle Anderson perfectly capture Pejic’s astonishingly elegant looks. The girl’s got attitude!
Photographer / Christos Karantzolas
@ 212 Artists representatives
Styling / Kyle Anderson
Make Up / Niki M’nray
Hair / menelaoshair.com
Manicure / Yuki Fukuda
Fashion Assistants /
Jenna Blaha
Rayner Reyes
Marianne Dabir
Model / Andrej Pejic @ DNA, NYC
Shot @ Divine Studios, New York
Check it out!
BUY IN PRINT/ DOWNLOAD EBOOK/ VIEW ONLINE/ GO MOBILE/
Street Stories/
Schön! magazine appreciates and embraces interesting stories about fascinating people and subjects.
For the fourteenth issue, we dedicate a feature on Vivian Maier – the New York street photographer who worked as a nanny in Chicago. She kept her artistic talent private until a historian found her archive of pictures in 2007 – mostly undeveloped – and released them into the world by putting up the photographs in his blog.
She died in 2009, but became a sensation. Her images are emotional, monumental and intimate: they capture a small part of reality and have a beautiful aspect of timelessness.
Read more about this incredible story in the fourteenth issue of Schön! magazine.
All Images
From Vivian Maier: Street Photographer
photographs by Vivian Maier
edited by John Maloof
published by powerHouse Books
50s-60s / New York City / Chicago
Clothbound hardcover, 10.125 x 11.125 inches,
136 pages, over 100 duotone photographs
ISBN: 978-1-57687-577-3, $39.95
words / Emma Ruttle
BUY IN PRINT/ DOWNLOAD EBOOK/ VIEW ONLINE/ GO MOBILE/
On the Phone with Oliviero Toscani/
OLIVIERO TOSCANI’s photographs are known to cause shock and scandal: there is for example, the one with the priest and the nun kissing, that one of anorexic model Isabelle Caro posing naked and the one of horses having sexual intercourse. He is also known for creating infamous adverts for fashion brand Benetton during the 80s and 90s, which faced government bans and sparked public protests.
For the fourteenth issue of Schön! We had the great honour of talking to Toscani about his advertisements being seen as politics, his role models, his old college days, being misunderstood and many more heated issues.
Read more about the man that stated, “There are no shocking pictures, there is only shocking reality” in the fourteenth issue of Schön! magazine.
All photographs / Oliviero Toscani
Oliviero Toscani has been interviewed by Saskia Reis
BUY IN PRINT/ DOWNLOAD EBOOK/ VIEW ONLINE/ GO MOBILE/
Adidas SLVR T-Shirt series/
adidas SLVR has redefined casualwear as smart, sleek, and effortlessly elegant, carving out a niche for innovative pieces that match the pace of 21st-century lives.
For the SLVR A/W 11-12 T-Shirt Series seven different T-shirt graphics were designed by seven local relevant creatives from the fields of fashion and music, who have international impact. The graphics are printed on classic unisex crew neck T-shirts that run from size XXS to XL. The Fashion Group graphics are printed on white shirts, for the Music Group black shirts were chosen. The T-Shirt Series is available in adidas brand stores, SLVR monobrand stores and selected retailers worldwide.
With exclusive designs from some of the most important people of the creative world right now – such as W’s fashion director and Vogue contributor (American, Italian and Luomo) Edward Enninful; Jorg Korsh, the founder of groundbreaking and innovative culture magazine 032c; and the electronic music duo The Golden Filter, which are considered to be the guiding light to the reappearance of the disco – this project is clearly awesome.
If you’re cool enough to wear one, then wear it with pride because you will be part of something wonderful!
BUY IN PRINT/ DOWNLOAD EBOOK/ VIEW ONLINE/ GO MOBILE/
